k3nnyP;821414 said:
To buy or not to buy RODI
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The SUPPLY line to the hot water heater contains... cold water.
Russ
Edit: A word about self piercing needle valves:
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Although we stock them, we try to steer customers towards a better option.
These fittings are quick and easy to install, but over time tend to leak, and or the hole they pierce tends to close due to scale build up.
They are not suitable for use if your system has a booster pump - they will starve the pump for water.
There are so many other options available that are convenient and don't cost much...
Russ
Russ
Edit: A word about self piercing needle valves:
Although we stock them, we try to steer customers towards a better option.
These fittings are quick and easy to install, but over time tend to leak, and or the hole they pierce tends to close due to scale build up.
They are not suitable for use if your system has a booster pump - they will starve the pump for water.
There are so many other options available that are convenient and don't cost much...
Russ
For your size system, a DI only unit will make much more sense, IMO.
The incoming water quality would weigh into this, but in north Georgia the municipal water TDS tends to be quite low (<50ppm).
Using an RO membrane that wastes over 50% of incoming water makes no sense here.
DI only, treats 100% of incoming water.
Personally, I would opt for a 5 cannister system with these-
1) 5 micron per filter
2) combo 1 micron filter with GAC (activated carbon)
3 + 4) both mixed bed refillable DI resin cannisters
5) a 1 micron polishing filter (catches debris/particles from DI stages)
You will only be using ~10 gallons or less per week, at 10% water changes. The DI resin will last months, and can be refilled by you for less than $10 each.
-JMHO
The incoming water quality would weigh into this, but in north Georgia the municipal water TDS tends to be quite low (<50ppm).
Using an RO membrane that wastes over 50% of incoming water makes no sense here.
DI only, treats 100% of incoming water.
Personally, I would opt for a 5 cannister system with these-
1) 5 micron per filter
2) combo 1 micron filter with GAC (activated carbon)
3 + 4) both mixed bed refillable DI resin cannisters
5) a 1 micron polishing filter (catches debris/particles from DI stages)
You will only be using ~10 gallons or less per week, at 10% water changes. The DI resin will last months, and can be refilled by you for less than $10 each.
-JMHO
You should check out "The Filter Guys" also for great pricing and setups. They are very knowledgeable and I have used them for a couple years. You can save a bunch of cash by not paying companies like "Kent Marine" their ridiculously marked up prices on RO filters and by buying refillable DI. I make my own DI cartridges and add anion silica resin for high silaca removal as well. Not nearly as complicated as it appears. Don't be intimidated...
Let me give you some tips.
1. GET ONE!(see details below)
2. get two brute trash cans (ones WITHOUT build in wheels...they will eventually leak)
3. Get a float valve
4. Get a spare pump with enough hose to reach from wherever your cans are to the tank.
5. Get a big heater
Bam instant no lifting water station.
Now then details of the RO to get. Cheap ones are fine. If you can custom make or modify one do it to make it simpler. Since water in the atlanta area is actually quite clean(well below 100 TDS) out of the tap you dont need anything complex
All you really need is a 5 micron sediment filter, followed by a 1 or 2 micron carbon filter, then the RO itself, then DI. I use the 3rd canister on a stock 4 stage and just replumbed it to be the DI. Then just make sure it has the shutoff for the float valve.
Thats all you need. A dual TDS meter is nice but not really needed if you have color changing DI resin.
Everything Listed above should run you under $250 easy.
PS water is cheap, DI only units are only worth it if you actually recharge the resin which is a HUUUGE pain in the butt.
1. GET ONE!(see details below)
2. get two brute trash cans (ones WITHOUT build in wheels...they will eventually leak)
3. Get a float valve
4. Get a spare pump with enough hose to reach from wherever your cans are to the tank.
5. Get a big heater
Bam instant no lifting water station.
Now then details of the RO to get. Cheap ones are fine. If you can custom make or modify one do it to make it simpler. Since water in the atlanta area is actually quite clean(well below 100 TDS) out of the tap you dont need anything complex
All you really need is a 5 micron sediment filter, followed by a 1 or 2 micron carbon filter, then the RO itself, then DI. I use the 3rd canister on a stock 4 stage and just replumbed it to be the DI. Then just make sure it has the shutoff for the float valve.
Thats all you need. A dual TDS meter is nice but not really needed if you have color changing DI resin.
Everything Listed above should run you under $250 easy.
PS water is cheap, DI only units are only worth it if you actually recharge the resin which is a HUUUGE pain in the butt.
Yes get one, once you have one you will wonder how you did without. I go a 90 GPD unit with a 14 gal resivoir tank. I usually need 10 gal for a water change so this keeps a ready supply and allows me to also hook it to the fridge for ice and drinking water. Best of luck and let us know what you decider
I hook my system up to my kithchen sink with a faucet adapter. I was making water last night and forgot to turn it off when I went to bed. I woke up to quite a mess. I'll save all the details but I will say i need to go buy some new carpet padding today. I'm now convinced to set up a system with a float valve. I don't have a basement or utility sink. I saw in some posts above that people have plumbed to the supply line of the hot water heater. My hot water heater is in my garage but where does the waste water go?
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We recommend AGAINST people using a pressurized storage container for:
1. RO water fed to a DI stage, or
2. DI water.
Russ
1. RO water fed to a DI stage, or
2. DI water.
Russ
