Too high nitrite during cycle?

xilez

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Hey guys,

Currently on day 10 of my cycle (live sand and dry rock). Following the dr tims method with one and only and ammonium chloride dosing.

Have not dosed since day 6. It looks like ammonia is ok, but nitrites seem pretty high. According to dr tims, I should not let nitrite get above 5ppm.... So I need to do some water changes to lower the nitrite? Or should I wait another couple of days and test again? I am worried that the high nitrites could be slowing the cycle down.


Thoughts?

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Looks good to me. I'm not a big fan of API test kits, but for cycling they're suitable. I'd be patient and wait it out. Your building beneficial bacteria and I'd suggest NOT to do a water change at this stage. I think if you wait another week you'll see the nitrites begin to drop and the nitrates raise.
 
Sn4k33y3z;1095802 wrote: Looks good to me. I'm not a big fan of API test kits, but for cycling they're suitable. I'd be patient and wait it out. Your building beneficial bacteria and I'd suggest NOT to do a water change at this stage. I think if you wait another week you'll see the nitrites begin to drop and the nitrates raise.

Agree do nothing, wait and be patient.Your tank is still on schedule to be ready for the expo!
 
Cool, thanks everyone. I will give it a couple days before I test again.
 
You're probably not getting a good reading on Nitrate with Nitrite in the water. Just watch the Nitrite every few days for the next week or two. The bacteria that processes it is slower to build up. As you check you may not see much of a change then one day it will have dropped much lower, maybe even to zero. At that point test the other two. Once Ammonia is at or very close to zero and your Nitrites are at zero the Nitrate test will be correct and should be up. Then it's time to do a big water change and add a fish or two.

Now is a good time to get a couple fish in quarantine too.
 
How exactly do I set up a quarantine tank? I've never used one, never really felt the need... I just do what I can to make sure I am buying healthy fish
 
It's just a separate tank with its own filtration. Keep a piece of marine pure or something in your display sump and you can move it to the qt tank whenever you have something to qt. Just add water and heater to bring up the tank.
 
anit77;1095809 wrote: You're probably not getting a good reading on Nitrate with Nitrite in the water. Just watch the Nitrite every few days for the next week or two. The bacteria that processes it is slower to build up. As you check you may not see much of a change then one day it will have dropped much lower, maybe even to zero. At that point test the other two. Once Ammonia is at or very close to zero and your Nitrites are at zero the Nitrate test will be correct and should be up. Then it's time to do a big water change and add a fish or two.

Now is a good time to get a couple fish in quarantine too.

Just a thought, wihtout an established display to grab media with established bacteria from, setting up a quarantine tank will require cycling that tank too right?
 
Right. I personally wouldn't qt the first fish I add to the tank. I don't normally start to qt until I've got a little bit of money in the display livestock.
 
That's what I was thinking...

WHEN it is time to add fish.. I plan to add 2 clowns and a midas goby at the same time.
 
Danh;1095814 wrote: Right. I personally wouldn't qt the first fish I add to the tank. I don't normally start to qt until I've got a little bit of money in the display livestock.


While I understand what you mean here, I can't say I would agree that is the best practice. Just as a new fish can bring disease into the tank, the first fish can. If the first fish has ich then ich will be in the tank so long as there are fish available for it to host. If you want to ensure your tank is disease free, then QT every single fish.


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I agree with you. I just don't do that.

I do disagree with ich though. I think all fish and tanks have ich. Your fish just don't show it until they're too stressed and their immune system weakened and then they start showing the signs. IME, you're going to get it no matter how you qt and you're never going to be able to get rid of it. So specifically ich may not be the best example. Other parasites and issues you are right, I just don't bother with a new tank.
 
BIO-Spira can get a QT tank running the same day.

A 10-20 gallon tank, cheap hang-on filter, heater, powerhead and a simple light is all you need.
Per Rit I put Matrix in the filter. I also put an ammonia alert badge in but still test for it every few days just to be sure. Anything gets out of whack do a water change and add more BIO-Spira to the new water.
 
Should I add all 3 fish at once (to the Display Tank), or should I do Blenny first, then a week or two later add the 2 clowns?
 
Danh;1095817 wrote: I agree with you. I just don't do that.

I do disagree with ich though. I think all fish and tanks have ich. Your fish just don't show it until they're too stressed and their immune system weakened and then they start showing the signs. IME, you're going to get it no matter how you qt and you're never going to be able to get rid of it. So specifically ich may not be the best example. Other parasites and issues you are right, I just don't bother with a new tank.

To an extent I can also see this point of view. But, what to me would be quite frustrating, if you got something in the tank with the 1st additions and it would force you to go fallow for up to 2 months or more. Here you are with a brand new tank that you've spent countless hours setting up and finally got through the cycle and now you to have to stare at an empty DT for a few more months.

It's that old saying... "An ounce of prevention is worth..."
 
xilez;1095820 wrote: Should I add all 3 fish at once (to the Display Tank), or should I do Blenny first, then a week or two later add the 2 clowns?

Yes, given it's a small tank I think it would be a good idea to separate the additions. This will give the bacteria time to adjust to the bio-load. Maybe add the clowns 1st and the Blenny later.?.?
 
On cycling the tank (the original question), don't obsess with testing, just let it do its thing. You set it up, fouled it, now let Nature do her thing.

I like to use Seachem Stability to help things along, but it's no substitute for patience. I don't think there's a set 'level' that the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate should hit. It's there, it processes, when they are gone, it's safe to proceed SLOWLY.

People overthink the wrong things, sometimes, IMO.

As for a QT tank - you should have one and have it cycled before buying any fish. I'm not at home on my own computer or I'd post my article on best practices, but if you search this forum you can find it. It's called Best Practices - Quarantine and New Fish Selection (or something very similar.)

Jenn
 
Unfortunately, I don't really have the space for a QT tank. Seems this is a very YMMV topic.
 
Ymmv? You think so until you've had a wipe-out. It isn't *if*, it is *when*.

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