water evaporation question

I think your calculations are off. Assuming a specific gravity of 1.025, on a 20 G tank. After 1 gallon of evaporation, your new specific gravity is 1.0263.

Assuming my phone math is correct. I could be wildly off.

nonetheless, you’re correct that trying to minimize these swings will help you immensely.
If that calculation is correct then you are fine.
 
If it's let's say an inch gap between sensors and no adjustment. In your display you will have to loose that much water , ie 1 inch of surface water . If it was in a sump , being much smaller you would see less volume per active cycle . Looking at their site for a sec I see a lot mounted in sumps but not any in tank demos .
This sensor only allows for 1/2” variance in water level.
 
Dave is absolutely right. When in the return chamber that 1/2" is in a much lower volume vessel rather than the full tank volume. Doesn't matter if it's in sump or an AIO, as long as it's in the return. Just moving it there will greatly reduce the salinity other chemistry swings in the system.
 
I use these ATO’s on my tanks. Tanks size is not the issue, this ATO works for any tank size but it’s meant to be used in a sump (or rear chamber in an all in one). The Hydor sensor allows about 1/2” of water level fluctuation, not sure how much other sensors allow but another sensor might fit your needs better. In my 80g & 60g the 1/2” range translates to about 3-4 cups of water. Not enough to affect salinity. Any chance you can add something like the tune comline 3161. You could place the hydro sensor in the unit and 1/2” of level fluctuation would only be about 4-6 ounces. Just a thought.
the only thing about this is that supposedly this ATO has a minimum run time of 25 seconds... I read this online but haven't tested it myself
 
the only thing about this is that supposedly this ATO has a minimum run time of 25 seconds... I read this online but haven't tested it myself
I have put limiters on mine to cause the return pum to add water at a slower level because in my case it was overfilling the chamber prior to shutting off. Not sure it will help in your situation but why not try it and see if a slower return rate solves the problem. Nice catch.
 
I have put limiters on mine to cause the return pum to add water at a slower level because in my case it was overfilling the chamber prior to shutting off. Not sure it will help in your situation but why not try it and see if a slower return rate solves the problem. Nice catch.
that's actually a good idea! now to find a way to make my pump fill slower than its minimum
 
so how does that work? my current filter level doesn't fluctuate all only the tank itself, what would make that tunze water level change to allow the ATO to work?
 
so how does that work? my current filter level doesn't fluctuate all only the tank itself, what would make that tunze water level change to allow the ATO to work?
The Tunze uses an optical sensor. As soon as the water drops to the tip of the sensor or just the slightest amount below it the unit kicks on. The same sensor shuts it off, so there no gap difference like the one you're using. The second "Float" sensor is the high level shut off or kill switch to cover a possible error with the first sensor. The Osmolator will sense 1/4" or less drops in level. The one downfall with them is they run the pump for 30 or 45 seconds every time the unit is plugged in or re-powered up.

I use the Nano Osmolator for my coral QT. It just uses a single float switch with no backup. The Smart ATO might be a better choice for this allocation, which is similar to yours. A 20 Long with no sump or pump chamber.
 
Back
Top