Water Mixing Station - Automation

[rdnelson]

First off, a float valve is a valve that open and closes a water line or air line directly. A float switch or any other kind of switch opens and closes a contact that allows current (electricity) to flow through it. In the schematic I posted above, all floats are float switches not float valves. The vertical line on the left represents the hot from the power source and the vertical line on the right represents the common from the power source. Therefore, if your solenoids have 24 volt coils the power source would have to be a 24 volt hot and common. You also need to make sure the coils on the relays are rated at 24 volts.

As for door alarm, the mechanism that activates it can be anything. A magnetic switch just means that when a magnet is close, it pulls the switch inside of it closed (if the switch is normally open) or pulls it open (if the switch is normally closed). Some switches are both normally open and normally closed. In that case you would have a common terminal and two switched terminals. When the switch is in one position one of the switched terminals will be connected to the common but the other will not. When the switch changes positions that is reversed.

In the case of the relays in the schematic above, they are double pole double throw which means there are two sets of Normally Open/Normally closed contacts. Hope that helps.

 

[wmboots]

shafiq.hossain;734275 wrote: Thanks. I'll ponder over this tonight. On a side note, let me ask you for another suggestion. Although not related, but I believe it will benefit many of us. We all have expensive electrical equipment hooked up (whether running or not). One power surge is all it takes to knock out a huge investment. Having said that, I was thinking of getting a whole house surge protector hooked up directly to the panel. I found two. HOme depot sells a GE version (my panel is GE) for about $47. It is rated around 1500 joules. Another electrical supply store sells one by cutler hammer for aboiut $130 rated at about 2800 joules. What do you think is more practical. Is the 1500 joules even overkill. If so, then I should be safe with that instead of the more expensive one. But if a home can typically go over 1500, then the more expensive one is extra money worth spent. Your thoughts?

There are a number of decent surge protectors on the market ie: Sycom, Surge Assure, Square D (basicly same thing as surge assure) Eaton (cutler hammer) but and a big BUT when reading fine print please be aware that mounting a whole house surge protector or surge suppressor (as most of them really are suppressors not protectors) they will cover upwards to a million dollars BUT (again) they will insist that you have secondary Point of Use surge protectors in place also.
I sell quite a few Sycom and Surge Assurre units both are great units with Sycom costing approximately 45% less than Surge Assure. I personally use Sycom whole house and then install point of use at delicate equipment.
I always suggest purchasing a UPS system that way you have 15-45 minutes of battery power in case of power outage and they really are the best surge protection out there.

Rich don't take this wrong but I have issues with using sprinkler system solonoid switches because they have brass or other metal in them.
Do a little searching and you will find solonoid switches suitable for salt water systems that are just as cheap as the sprinkler solonoids.

I have control modules with input and relayed output terminals on them just wish I knew someone capable of taking them and writing software to make them useable in our hobby.

 

[basscyn]

Tagging along.

I love automating stuff like this...but this looks like WAY too much trouble to mix salt. I don't see enough bang for my buck or trouble.

Interested to see a final product.

 

[rdnelson]

wmboots;743803 wrote:

Rich don't take this wrong but I have issues with using sprinkler system solonoid switches because they have brass or other metal in them.
Do a little searching and you will find solonoid switches suitable for salt water systems that are just as cheap as the sprinkler solonoids.

No offense taken Bill. It was just what came to mind when the question was asked. If I were going to build something like this I would deffinately look around and determine which parts would be be the best to use. But, as cheap and available as sprinkler valves are, it might be worth it just to buy to tear apart. I love tearing things apart. LOL

Edit:

BASSCYN;743829 wrote: Tagging along.

I love automating stuff like this...but this looks like WAY too much trouble to mix salt. I don't see enough bang for my buck or trouble.

Interested to see a final product.

I am with you. For the little bit I need to mix I think it would be more trouble than good. But, I just wanted to help the OP out with the circuitry portion of it if he decided he wanted to go ahead with it. Besides, it is like doing a puzzle.

 

[shafiq_hossain]

Still looking for cost effective salt water proof solenoid valves. Anyone know where I can find some? If not, how long do you think the sprinkler valves will last?

 

[rdnelson]

If it were me, I would take apart the one you have and see what metal parts actually come in contact with the water. If it is stainless steel it should last some time IMHO. If it is cadmium plated than it won't last as long. I suspect, but not sure, that when you take it apart you will find that the only material in contact with water are made of plastic or rubber. The only exception I can think of off the top of my head would be a spring. But then I could be completely wrong.

 

[shafiq_hossain]

Called Hunter and they indicated that the only metallic component exposed to salt water would be the spring as you mentioned. When asked what type of metal? They responded it was 304 stainless steel. I'm not sure what "304" is indicative of.

 

[rdnelson]

shafiq.hossain;747138 wrote: Called Hunter and they indicated that the only metallic component exposed to salt water would be the spring as you mentioned. When asked what type of metal? They responded it was 304 stainless steel. I'm not sure what "304" is indicative of.

302 is the grade of stainless steel. Again, if it were me
I would use it.

 

[shafiq_hossain]

Okay, I'm about 50% done. Hope to be done with the rest within the next month. Will keep you updated.....