What am I forgetting here?

[enderg60]

Ok Im finishing up the design for my tanks wiring/control setup and Im making a list of everything that needs power for the tank, and I want to make sure I dont forget anything. Here is what I have so far.

Halides
T5's
Moon Lights
Fuge light
Frag tank light
Heaters
Fans
Ground Loop pump
Chiller
wavebox
Closed Loop Pump
Skimmer pump (and air pump if needed)
Power heads
Calc reactor (solenoid and recirc pump)
Ozone
UV
Sea swirls
Auto top off
Denitrator(recirc pump)
Dehunidifier
Mixing tank heater/ fan
Mixing tank pump
Alk,calc, mag Dosing pumps

so can anyone think of anything else that could possibly be on a tank and need power?

 

[haninja]

I recently found the need for an external water sensing switch to turn everything off in case of an overflow or a leak.

 

[jjkeith]

Controller, return pump, gfo and carbon filter pump, ro unit pressure pump.
Hope this isn't all going in your tank as you could run a manifold to get rid of a lot of pumps.

 

[weaglereefer]

You could throw in another solenoid and float valve to top off your top off water. I have my RO/DI set up this way and it means I don't have to remember to fill the top off water, it just takes care of itself.

 

[enderg60]

Ah, leak detectors would be a good idea....even if its all in the basement where I dont really care.

What im desinging is the controller wiring(each outlet will switch a 20a relay) and base power. its all going in the basement.

The reactors will be fed off the return manifold(already done), and the RO does not need a booster pump, house pressure is plenty high enough.

Top off is done with a kent float valve, that will have a solenoid on it to only allow it to run for 5 min 3 times a day. thats the ATO listed.

 

[acroholic]

Have you got something to turn off the kalk mixer/ATO in case of a pH spike? I have an RKL that turns off the Nilsen/ATO if my pH spikes past 8.5.
Dave

 

[chymos45]

I'm sure you thought of this but when calc'ing the power draw, remember that you would never have all of these items running at the same time. Then again, maybe one hot day running fans, chiller, etc, you also have to turn on a shop-vac on the same breaker. Those suckers (pun intended) draw a lot of amps. I guess this is a long winded way of saying to carefully consider how much juice you need now - and down the road...

 

[enderg60]

I dont run kalk, but the controller will be able to shut off stuff based on PH, temp or ORP

and I sized everything thinking everything would be on at once. The only thing that goes over is the heating/cooling circuit thanks to the 3000 watts of heat, but that wont run at the same time as the chiller so Im good with the 30a breaker.

Keep em coming, I dont want to run all this wiring and forget something!

 

[weaglereefer]

Haha "Calc reactor" read as "Kalk reactor" and not "Calcium reactor" lol.

 

[chymos45]

I'm a big fan of redundancy and isolation. Maybe think about a couple of 20A's instead of a single 30A. If a silly mixing tank heater trips the breaker, you don't want the circulation pumps shutting down.
Also, with this type of complexity in your system and the types of livestock I've seen in your interest in the past, have you considered a generator and a transfer switch?

 

[enderg60]

the 30a is just for heating and cooling, there are 4 other 20a circuits dedicated to the tank, and I already have a generator just gata get the transfer switch done.

 

[weaglereefer]

Just curious, how is the generator set up? Do you have to add fuel stabilizer since it may sit for long periods of time without running? How large is the fuel tank and how long do you expect it to run your system?

 

[chymos45]

EnderG60;492287 wrote: the 30a is just for heating and cooling, there are 4 other 20a circuits dedicated to the tank, and I already have a generator just gata get the transfer switch done.

Sounds like you've given this some serious thoughts and have all the bases covered. Looking forward to seeing the process and the final product. Keep us posted.

 

[chymos45]

au01st;492290 wrote: Just curious, how is the generator set up? Do you have to add fuel stabilizer since it may sit for long periods of time without running? How large is the fuel tank and how long do you expect it to run your system?

Good question. I know al lot of house generators run on propane or natural gas, but never thought of the degradation of gasoline in other units over time. I would imagine Sta-bil or other product would do the trick, but I have no experience. All generators should be "exercised" periodically, but the short bursts once a month or so would certainly not drain a gas tank.

 

[enderg60]

Yeah I use stabilizer on the generator, but I also run it every few months for a bit. But Im not sure how it will be connected. Havent gotten to that part yet.