What ATO do you use?

If you had salt deposits build up causing the salinity drop (of about 2%), just on the ~25 gallons in the sump, you’d be looking for about 65 grams of salt.

I’m assuming the total system volume is much higher than that? Which would mean a lot more salt than 65 grams, which is already more than a tenth of a pound. That would be hard to miss, imo!
 
To explain salinity dropping, you have either-
-added fresh water, or
-removed salt.

It’s easier to do the first.

Pfft, only with that attitude. I enjoy taking the eggs out of my baked cakes as a side hobby.

Sump is 20\30 gallons. I use a refractometer but also used a digital meter as well.

What's your total system volume? Even just basing that on the 20 gallons in the sump... that much of a swing means it's dumping ~2 gallons of freshwater from your ATO, and way more if your total system volume is higher.

Dats alot o water.
 
?

1-1.023/1.025 x 100 = 2.24%

25 gal. X 0.0224 = 0.56 gal. (For sump only)
 
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Oh hm. That’s my stupid math. I went off salt calculator to raise the salinity and it came to 1 cup. I use 1/2cup per gallon, so I figured two gallons, whoops.
 
What's your total system volume? Even just basing that on the 20 gallons in the sump... that much of a swing means it's dumping ~2 gallons of freshwater from your ATO, and way more if your total system volume is higher.

Dats alot o water.
[/QUOTE]

I rechecked my math & you are correct! My apologies.

C1 x V1 = C2 x V2
a standard equation for solutions in chemistry

It is based on concentration, not density.

I was using the specific gravity (density), instead of concentration (ppt), which caused the error.

Mea culpa
 
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I use Tunze now. I was using an Apex bob with 2 floats and before that a JBJ
 
Salt accumulation is minimal on the lids. Tunze will be on the way. Hopefully my little post hasn't put anybody off buying my current ATO when I post it
 
What's your total system volume? Even just basing that on the 20 gallons in the sump... that much of a swing means it's dumping ~2 gallons of freshwater from your ATO, and way more if your total system volume is higher.

Dats alot o water.

I rechecked my math & you are correct! My apologies.

C1 x V1 = C2 x V2
a standard equation for solutions in chemistry

It is based on concentration, not density.

I was using the specific gravity (density), instead of concentration (ppt), which caused the error.

Mea culpa
[/QUOTE]

I'm still not 100% convinced my original math is correct, but close enough - whether it's 1/2 gal or way, way more - it's still dumping a bunch at one time for that kind of drop on a 100 gallon system!

Good luck with your Tunze! Mine has been pretty solid, only have had to clean the sensor once in almost a year.
 
My ATO is my diy "APEX" which right now is using float switch and I've programmed some back ups in the PLC so that if my ATO container is empty I get a notification from a status light. Also I've put in some timers so that my pump doesn't run dry for over minute.
 
So after I ordered my osmolator I just thought about the auto aqua water changer plus ATO. For the same price wouldn't this be a better deal since it uses optical sensors as well? Anybody currently using one of these?
 
I don’t know?

I’ve got 2 Tunze ATO’s & have been thinking about switching to an ATK, just so I can monitor it & get emails in case of problems. I also have the Apex flood sensors.

It’s not the technology or money I’m worried about. It’s my wife’s hardwood FLOORS!
 
So after I ordered my osmolator I just thought about the auto aqua water changer plus ATO. For the same price wouldn't this be a better deal since it uses optical sensors as well? Anybody currently using one of these?
I use the auto aqua water changer on my pest tank. The pumps are weak but Coralvue provides good service when it breaks. It is easy to use. I would not use it in a large system.
 
I use the auto aqua water changer on my pest tank. The pumps are weak but Coralvue provides good service when it breaks. It is easy to use. I would not use it in a large system.
I've seen that you can change the pumps for something more reliable. I'll be upgrading to a 120 but nothing bigger. Think that'd be okay?
 
I've seen that you can change the pumps for something more reliable. I'll be upgrading to a 120 but nothing bigger. Think that'd be okay?
There are videos and posts of folks changing the pumps- of course then you have warranty issues. I have used this product on 45, 55, and 100 gallon systems. The ATO has always worked like a charm - both the micro and the regular. For the water change- I have had recent issues with the pumps, but the system works fine. But it is slow. So, if you want a slow programmable water change with not massive quantities of water, it works well. I do a bi-weekly water change of 10-15 gallons on my 55 pest tank using this system. I have also set it up to do two gallons a day, and that works fine as well.
 
I think somethings shouldn't be done on the cheap. @sharis100 using an aqua water changer on a pest tank is one thing but on your display is another. If something goes wrong on the pest tank what has she lost? Pests. On a display if it fails, you're out potentially thousands of dollars.

There are some very good top off systems out there, not just the Tunze. The Osmolator is what I use but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend any that use optical sensors and have a backup optical or float. You can even make your own if you have a controller. I've heard too many horror stories about the Neptune ATK though, that one is a no go.

I like to have redundancy. So I have my Tunze plugged into an EB8 and float switches connected to a breakout box. If the Tunze fails and the float switch on the BoB trips it cuts the power to the that outlet.
 
I think somethings shouldn't be done on the cheap. @sharis100 using an aqua water changer on a pest tank is one thing but on your display is another. If something goes wrong on the pest tank what has she lost? Pests. On a display if it fails, you're out potentially thousands of dollars.

There are some very good top off systems out there, not just the Tunze. The Osmolator is what I use but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend any that use optical sensors and have a backup optical or float. You can even make your own if you have a controller. I've heard too many horror stories about the Neptune ATK though, that one is a no go.

I like to have redundancy. So I have my Tunze plugged into an EB8 and float switches connected to a breakout box. If the Tunze fails and the float switch on the BoB trips it cuts the power to the that outlet.
Exactly, that is why I have an ATK - which was problematic until Neptune replaced it with a brand new one- on my main system, with all the probes to monitor and email warnings if out of range, leak sensors, a secondary monitoring system as well and multiple other redundancies. And even then, I worry and constantly do visual checks on my taped levels in all my systems.
 
I’ve used jbj and toms aqualifter for 5 years with not one issue. I’m keeping the aqualifter and using hydrofill ato for the nano due to space and setup limitations.
 
Exactly, that is why I have an ATK - which was problematic until Neptune replaced it with a brand new one- on my main system, with all the probes to monitor and email warnings if out of range, leak sensors, a secondary monitoring system as well and multiple other redundancies. And even then, I worry and constantly do visual checks on my taped levels in all my systems.
I don't think I'm going to be an early adopter with anything from Neptune unless it's via their NSI program. The track record the last few years hasn't been the best.

There's also a thread on R2R for making your own BoB that can use optical sensors you can buy on Amazon. That, an aqua lifter and a power supply, you're good to go. With my new system I will be looking into a lot of DIY.
 
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