What macro algae should I use?

[gajeep94yj]

I have higher nitrates and never been able to get then to zero, so beside chaeto what other macro algae should I pump in the sump?

 

[genesis]

GaJeep94YJ;1048295 wrote: I have higher nitrates and never been able to get then to zero, so beside chaeto what other macro algae should I pump in the sump?

caluerpa is another good macro algae. It can survived with lower levels than chaeto but does run a higher risk of going asexual if not properly lit or managed.

 

[snowmansnow]

Genesis;1048296 wrote: caluerpa is another good macro algae. It can survived with lower levels than chaeto but does run a higher risk of going asexual if not properly lit or managed.

won't it also impact your Ca level?

 

[russ-iv]

GaJeep94YJ;1048295 wrote: I have higher nitrates and never been able to get then to zero, so beside chaeto what other macro algae should I pump in the sump?

is your chaeto not growing fast enough?
id suspect your phosphates are 0.

 

[bulkrate]

Nitrates will never be zero, nor should they be unless you're intentionally running ULNS. Are you also experiencing runaway pest algae growth?

Caleurpa will rapidly soak the same nutrients as chaeto, but I'd recommend sticking with the one you've got. Worst thing that happens when chaeto's starved is that it turns glassy, fragments & potentially makes a mess of bits that make it though your filter.

If your chaetomorpha's well lit by a 2K-4K light (led or CFL, dealer's choice) on a 10-18 hour lighting cycle, and allowed to either tumble or just flipped every few days then it should grow quickly in the presence of elevated nutrients (yes, as Russ-IV points out, nitrates AND phosphates). If it isn't, then water changes are going to be your best bet to bringing them down in the short term, and examining your feeding regimen/stocking levels in the long.

All that said, what's reading on a test kit and are your corals ticked off/inverts lethargic?

 

[gajeep94yj]

Russ-IV;1048312 wrote: is your chaeto not growing fast enough?
id suspect your phosphates are 0.

I don't have any yet. Just starting with macro

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[gajeep94yj]

BulkRate;1048313 wrote: Nitrates will never be zero, nor should they be unless you're intentionally running ULNS. Are you also experiencing runaway pest algae growth?

Caleurpa will rapidly soak the same nutrients as chaeto, but I'd recommend sticking with the one you've got. Worst thing that happens when chaeto's starved is that it turns glassy, fragments & potentially makes a mess of bits that make it though your filter.

If your chaetomorpha's well lit by a 2K-4K light (led or CFL, dealer's choice) on a 10-18 hour lighting cycle, and allowed to either tumble or just flipped every few days then it should grow quickly in the presence of elevated nutrients (yes, as Russ-IV points out, nitrates AND phosphates). If it isn't, then water changes are going to be your best bet to bringing them down in the short term, and examining your feeding regimen/stocking levels in the long.

All that said, what's reading on a test kit and are your corals ticked off/inverts lethargic?

My nitrates were 25 last water test at pure ref. I have had it a high 80-100.

I have diatoms I'm fighting with, but the red slime is gone.

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[crew]

How old is the tank?

 

[gajeep94yj]

Started in August of last year.

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[axio]

If the tank is younger then 4-5 months diatoms are normal. Just let it run it's course. Some people over do trying to correct algae at the start of a tank, when it's better to just let it do it's thing as long as your levels are all in check. Nitrates at 25 is fine and probably lower then a lot of people keep their tanks at. You don't ever want to be a zero nitrates.

 

[bulkrate]

Hmm at about one year old diatom growth should have already come & gone. What are you using for water source?

 

[gajeep94yj]

I mix it myself. Spectra pure RODI with reef crystals. I just replaced the three filters since this started, however tds always read 0.

1.025 salinity

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[bulkrate]

Next question - what do you run for physical filtration and how often do you change it out?

 

[gajeep94yj]

Not knowing exactly what you mean for physical filtration I'll just answer what filtration I have

Over flow into socks, changed every other water change or so

Then to live rock

Then through bubble trap to return pump.

Repeat

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[bulkrate]

A bit of a puzzle, but yeah that's what I was looking for. Leads to yet more questions: shoulda led off with these - brain is full, these days. I use the same salt without notable issue, so I don't think it's that.

1. How big is your tank (total water volume)?
2. How heavily stocked/fed?
3. Where'd your live rock come from initially - base "dead" rock, bought cured locally at a store, got a big ole tub 'o rock off somebody on Craigslist who insisted it was top-grade Tonga/Pukani?
4. How do you clean your filter socks and what micron grade are they (determines how much crud might be in 'em and how much left over to decay)
5. what is your water change schedule & what voume of the tank to you change?

So... just for kicks & grins the next time you take a sample over to Pure you may want to also take a sample of your newly-mixed change water to see if somehow you're adding nitrate to the system. I've seen it happen with some source wells & in places where lots of water line work is being done.

 

[russ-iv]

like bulkrate stated.
if you are overstocked. nitrate will come enmasse. you stated you have 25 ppm nitrate. what is your goal? does the tank look happy? is it ill? colors not popping?

i cant think of any ill effects of 25 nitrate.
i CAN see ill effects if you use GFO.

if po4 is detectable roll with it. if not... let it get just barely detectable and you will see nitrates reduce. i did a writeup on another forum about this very issue but i digress.

balance is everything. not 0.

my only question is how MUCH does your nitrate increase or decrease a week and how MUCH does your phosphate increase or decrease a week?

do you use gfo?

sorry...just getting to the root cause of the matter.

i wont criticize your use of any rock as a cinderblock can house denitrifying bacteria. but bioload per filtration will tell us a great story.

 

[gajeep94yj]

Whoa lots of questions.

Display tank is 30 gallon. 20-25ish sump.
6 fish, the largest being 1.5". Fox face, 2x clown, bangai cardinal, blue chromis, and an orchids dotty back.

Wafer changes I had been doing 15-20g a week...Maybe pushed to 1.5 weeks depending on schedule. But was recommended to drop to that to 5-7 gallon a week.

For the filter I turn it inside out and throw it in the rinse cycle.

I got all the rock wet from members on here. Two different people. Both of their tanks it came out of were awesome looking.

Oh yea I have phosguard in a baggie in the sock and as of last week after going to pure reef I am running some charcoal.



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[gajeep94yj]

Are diatoms a sign of over feeding? I didn't think those were related.

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[russ-iv]

ill let bulkrate continue then.

hard to help without understanding your nutrient surplus.
nitrate and phosphate increases over the week

yes overfeeding can give a slight diatom outbreak

 

[gajeep94yj]

Here are the numbers from last water check at pure ref

8/19
Kh 9
Salt 1.027
No2 0
Ammonia 0
No3 25
Phosphate 0
Ph-7.8

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