<p style="text-align:left;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Well guy’s it’s my turn to ask for your help. I have searched for directions on what to do with my sump issues. In the last couple of days I think I have LQQKed at more sump pics than I LQQKed at when I built my first couple. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Here is my problem. I need to reduce the heat in the tank and I think I need some increased flow in the sump. I need to fix this part in order for me to finish closing up the sump area. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have a 55 sump tank (48wx13dx20h) that flows right to left. It has three 1-1/2 drain pipes from the BA, a RO150 PS and a mag7 reactor pump in the right side, a fuge in the middle and a mag 9.5 return pump on 1” in the left side. I have even branched off of the reactor line and coiled up say 20’ of ¼” tube and mounted in to the front of a fan sort of like a heat exchanger. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">The water flow in the right side LQQKs dead with no movement. It just does not flow anything like it did when I had the 75g on a 38sump. I have an external pump that I have but never used. I could remove the need for the mag7 reactor pump and branch it off of the external pump which is bigger anyway. So with removing 2 internal pumps this should reduce some of the heat. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">But here is my problem. I can only put the external pump on the right side. This is the same side the drains go in. My tank is a peninsula style tank so I can’t just move the pipes around. I had thought about putting an internal wall in the sump and flowing the water around in the direction I wanted but it’s only 13” deep. It could be done but would reduce the foot print in the PS and fuge area. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">What I could do is do the baffles out of Lexan and drill them at the bottom all on one side. Drill for a 1” bulkhead through the glass and use a 1” mpt x 1-1/2 soc adapter to run 1-1/2 pvc through the baffles to the return side of the sump. Or I could do a box all the way across the bottom and notch out the glass to fit around it. I think the drilled baffles would be easier. I would have to seal most of it with silicone either anyway I went. </span></span>
<p style="text-align:left;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">What says you?</span></span>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Here is my problem. I need to reduce the heat in the tank and I think I need some increased flow in the sump. I need to fix this part in order for me to finish closing up the sump area. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have a 55 sump tank (48wx13dx20h) that flows right to left. It has three 1-1/2 drain pipes from the BA, a RO150 PS and a mag7 reactor pump in the right side, a fuge in the middle and a mag 9.5 return pump on 1” in the left side. I have even branched off of the reactor line and coiled up say 20’ of ¼” tube and mounted in to the front of a fan sort of like a heat exchanger. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">The water flow in the right side LQQKs dead with no movement. It just does not flow anything like it did when I had the 75g on a 38sump. I have an external pump that I have but never used. I could remove the need for the mag7 reactor pump and branch it off of the external pump which is bigger anyway. So with removing 2 internal pumps this should reduce some of the heat. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">But here is my problem. I can only put the external pump on the right side. This is the same side the drains go in. My tank is a peninsula style tank so I can’t just move the pipes around. I had thought about putting an internal wall in the sump and flowing the water around in the direction I wanted but it’s only 13” deep. It could be done but would reduce the foot print in the PS and fuge area. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">What I could do is do the baffles out of Lexan and drill them at the bottom all on one side. Drill for a 1” bulkhead through the glass and use a 1” mpt x 1-1/2 soc adapter to run 1-1/2 pvc through the baffles to the return side of the sump. Or I could do a box all the way across the bottom and notch out the glass to fit around it. I think the drilled baffles would be easier. I would have to seal most of it with silicone either anyway I went. </span></span>
<p style="text-align:left;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">What says you?</span></span>
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<p style="text-align:left;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">
