I have an RO unit with an in line TDS meter. The readings of the input water after the RO unit is 8. After the DI filter it is 0. The readings haven't changed in well over a year of filling up a 50 gallon drum and a 45 gallon trash can 2 times a month on the can and once every 2 months on the drum. I just tested the output water with a handheld TDS meter and it also reads 0. Should I go ahead and change the media anyway? The media looks brown and nasty and the DI cartridge is black not the green that I started off with. Thanks for your advice.
When do I change my RO filter media
- Thread starter miktrav
- Start date
I believe the membrane is good for a few years and the carbon block, sentiment filter Ect are dependent on the number of gallons processed. If you use color changing DI resin it's easy to know when it's depleted.
Keeping the prefilters clean will prolong the life of the membrane.
Sediment filters are cheap ($3-4 or less). It's well worth changing them when they start to look funky.
Pay attention to the chlorine removal capacity of your carbon block. Chlorine ruins a membrane. A spent carbon block will allow chlorine to reach the membrane. Carbon blocks are cheap too ($12 or less).
Spending $15 regularly will keep that $40 membrane going longer, and also the more expensive DI filter as well.
The ounce of prevention really is worth the pound of cure.
TDS is important - but it's not the ONLY consideration.
You can also back-flush the membrane to help get rid of accumulated crud.
This is something that most aquarium hobbyists don't do, but we always recommend for drinking water systems - when doing a filter change, it's a good idea to sanitize the unit as well.
Jenn
Sediment filters are cheap ($3-4 or less). It's well worth changing them when they start to look funky.
Pay attention to the chlorine removal capacity of your carbon block. Chlorine ruins a membrane. A spent carbon block will allow chlorine to reach the membrane. Carbon blocks are cheap too ($12 or less).
Spending $15 regularly will keep that $40 membrane going longer, and also the more expensive DI filter as well.
The ounce of prevention really is worth the pound of cure.
TDS is important - but it's not the ONLY consideration.
You can also back-flush the membrane to help get rid of accumulated crud.
This is something that most aquarium hobbyists don't do, but we always recommend for drinking water systems - when doing a filter change, it's a good idea to sanitize the unit as well.
Jenn
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