<--- following for the sole reason of seeing what people are doing with NO3 these days.
You kids and your high NO3 readings haha.
What do you consider high?
<--- following for the sole reason of seeing what people are doing with NO3 these days.
You kids and your high NO3 readings haha.
What do you consider high?
Yeah... that old way of thinking of a ULNS is the only way to grow acros or you need this light, blah blah blah, its all out the window. Stability is key. Back when I first started in this hobby - chasing those ridiculous numbers only lead me to failure.It’s interesting how the thought on NO3 has changed over the last 15 years.
It use to be that ANY ‘NO3 was high. Now I see people with ~20
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Yeah... that old way of thinking of a ULNS is the only way to grow acros or you need this light, blah blah blah, its all out the window. Stability is key. Back when I first started in this hobby - chasing those ridiculous numbers only lead me to failure.
I'm moving to halides - not to increase par or anything - but to remove my ability to worry about the lighting. I have the space, I'm not concerned about the energy consumption at this time, I'll deal with the heat - and I won't have to worry about my ramp times, which spectrums are at what percentages blah blah. Plus - I was needing to light another tank and looking at $1200+ for lighting was annoying so much it pushed me over the edge.I agree V, ULNS is just one option among many.
Lol; it’s funny that people are still on with the “you need this light” trend, thinking you need at least 150-250 PAR to grow Acros. I’ve stated before that my old tank grew great color Acros with an average PAR around 65. I think maybe some people dismiss these comments thinking I must be measuring incorrectly. Justin can this weekend with the PAR meter and seemed slightly shocked to see one of my tanks ranging from 25-95 PAR with 20 or so small Acro colonies growing great. High-light works,... but medium-intensity light can also work.
I'm moving to halides - not to increase par or anything - but to remove my ability to worry about the lighting. I have the space, I'm not concerned about the energy consumption at this time, I'll deal with the heat - and I won't have to worry about my ramp times, which spectrums are at what percentages blah blah. Plus - I was needing to light another tank and looking at $1200+ for lighting was annoying so much it pushed me over the edge.
I have LEDs in the house and will keep them where they are - but it's highly doubtful I'll ever buy another to be used as primary lighting for a tank.
I'm moving to halides - not to increase par or anything - but to remove my ability to worry about the lighting. I have the space, I'm not concerned about the energy consumption at this time, I'll deal with the heat - and I won't have to worry about my ramp times, which spectrums are at what percentages blah blah. Plus - I was needing to light another tank and looking at $1200+ for lighting was annoying so much it pushed me over the edge.
I have LEDs in the house and will keep them where they are - but it's highly doubtful I'll ever buy another to be used as primary lighting for a tank.
I hope this is in the spirit of the OP.... but this is a 4-month old tank, that was recently upgraded from a total system volume of around 18 gallons, to >75 gallons:
PH - 7.7 (that's what my gawd-awful Hanna checker says, but my chemical test shows closer to 8 or 8.2. Since my Hanna now won't take a calibration, It's probably closer to 8.2)
Alk - 7.7 (desperately trying to raise without shocking the tank. Currently dosing the KH portion of 2-part at 50ml/day, and would rather not try to go higher. Raising pH will help, of course)
FWIW...