which light set up

FWIW their are T-5 ballast (Dali ballast) that can be fully programed for 0% - 100%, Sunset. clouds...

Cameron, I will get back with you on the t-5 / MH fair comparison. I think your right for argument sake i should have used full price MH lamps. I cant find some info i need to be more fair. I think you'll have to help me with the latest t-5 info (I need to find the rate of decline of performance of t-5s).
I never heard of any single t-5 lamps that can put out 250 PAR. That is awesome. Is that in the water? So as usual your probable right, i might not have been fair. Ill do some more math it does look close
 
Patrick214;116075 wrote: Cameron, i wasnt trying to suggest what i read on rc was from you. I meant to say my consensus was from others who posted on rc. The reason I brought this debate up in the first place was to try and get a better understanding bc it is difficult to determine whether this fixture is worth the money. I want the best light money can buy. If this fixture is the best i want it. if it is only average id be rather upset. I really like the cloud cover and the other features but I recently found a mh that does the dimming, clouds, and lunar cycle. It was a giesseman that costs about the same as the solaris. Do u have ne thoughts on these? Im confused do u think there are better lighting options period without regard to cost or that there is just better bang for your buck fixtures. I've had ppl whose opinions I trust tell me to get the led, if its not gonna give par better than a 175watt halide its not worth it to me.
Ahh... yeah the RC guys can and are be brutal. Sorry for the confusion.

The fixture is fine, but what you are paying for is a lot of feature without a lot of purpose. I seriously doubt cloud cover, sunset and sunrise are really important to coral growth. To me they are nifty features without much substance. It is great they can do them, but I don't put much stock in them. The Neptune LunarSim can do a similar moon function, but I don't really think it is going to help much if at all. The moons effect on corals is far more substantial than lighting. That said if someone can get XYZ to spawn under one of these fixtures that they couldn't get under a more common fixture I would be impressed and put more consideration into those features. To me they fall into the cool factor but not much else.

The ability to alter the color is pretty cool, but the first Solaris had to run at optimum lighting in order to throw good PAR thus kinda negating this function. The new i4 may have more success with it, but T5s give you this ability already as you can choose the color combinations of the bulbs. It isn't as slick, but it works and doesn't really cost anything.

So in the end, for me and my opinioin, it comes down to lighting and output numbers. Next year it is likely companies will use another LED lamp virtually obsoleting the current units. In 2-3 years, they will probably be using yet another lamp. At some point in the next couple or three years, it is going to make a lot of sense to move to LED. Likely to the point where LED beats the other technologies across the board, but I just don't feel at this moment with the high price tag, limited PAR and lower effeciency (watt to lumen) it makes sense. It will soon, but in this decision I feel patience pays. In the meantime, you can get a lighting tech that produces virtually the same or more PAR for 1/5th the price. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles, but it more than gets the job done. Buy T5 now, wait 3 years and buy a fixture that blows the current LEDs and T5s out of the water for likely a really good price. You will probably be able to pick up a used i4 for pretty cheap by then and save yourself a wad of cash.

Again not arguing the ability of LEDs just making the point for my hard earned cash they aren't producing the numbers that make me believe they are worth the outlay in cash.
 
After doing a lot of reading here and RC and seeing a lot of tanks, I went with IceCap 48" 54W T5 retro kits with standard T5 ballasts for my in progress 120G, 4x2x2. I'm planning on keeping softies and LPS for the most part and really love the colors under the T5s. Right now they are sitting over a 70G Rubbermaid Stock Tank loaded with live rock and lots of corals so I can only see them from the top. Hopefully, I'll be just as happy with them over the tank once I get it up and running.

Configuration is front to back:

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 10000K Aqusun
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 75/25 14000K Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
 
Roland Jacques;116108 wrote: Cameron, I will get back with you on the t-5 / MH fair comparison. I think your right for argument sake i should have used full price MH lamps. I cant find some info i need to be more fair. I think you'll have to help me with the latest t-5 info (I need to find the rate of decline of performance of t-5s).
Hard data is very hard to find as the T5 lighting simply isn't old enough and not enough studies were started when they came out. Those that are very particular about color shifts tend to swap MH bulbs at 6-8 months versus 12-18 months on T5s. MH bulbs tend to have about 7000 hour life versus a T5 bulb of around 20000. Manufactorers claim very little loss of output over the life of the T5 bulb, but I suspect that they tend to run 1.5-2 years before they probably should be changed and earlier if you are a perfectionist. I know of a couple RC TOtM systems that change their bulbs out around the 2 year mark and others that do it at the year mark. MH is so dependant on bulbs as Sanjays research and commentary provided. Some bulbs barely made the 6 month mark before substantial loss. It seems the max you should push a quality MH bulb is 2 years and under many setups you should be very careful about bulb replacements as they may shock the coral if you go that long. I have personally not seen any reason why T5s won't last at least twice as long as MH if they are cooled properly. Their life span for running is substantially longer before burnout and the way they light doesn't seem to degrade nearly as fast as the filament in an MH bulb.

Roland Jacques;116108 wrote: I never heard of any single t-5 lamps that can put out 250 PAR. That is awesome. Is that in the water? So as usual your probable right, i might not have been fair. Ill do some more math it does look close
Here ya go... these were not overdriven:

OK, Here's the latest readings taken with the lamps running on a triad ballast. The numbers are only good for comparison here. Previous readings I took were with a different ballast and reflector so don't try to compare the two.

ATI

Sun Pro 357
Aquablue 336
Blue Plus 311
Actinic 137

D&D/Giesemann

Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Actinic Plus 264
Pure Actinic 157

UVL

Aqua sun 345
Actinic White 293
Super Actinic 210

AquaZ

Sun Pro 285
Ocean Pro 323
Blue Pro 266

Helios

Daylight 309
Super Blue 225

Current Sun Paq

Daylight 10K 272
Blue 252

GE Daylight 340

Data from this thread on RC:
showthread.php
 
MH Lamp life
“If a bulb is not replaced at six months, when it has lost 20% of its output, then why would we replace it at 12 months when its output has fallen only another 6%?”
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php</a>
[B]T-5 lamp life[/B]
Cant find much yet on T-5 intencity decliene

I did not Know that sanjay had any longivity data. ill try to find that.

I think the PAR readings on those t-5s were not in water, and only for comparision between t-5 lamps. I thought you were saying that they had a single t-5 that could put out 250 PAR underwater.
 
With all the other goings on over the Holidays, I missed this thread! I think Cameron's on point here. LEDs are the new frontier but there is still a ton of work to do before it's as cost effective as the alternatives. It will work, has some snazzy features but at a steep price. I haven't had the opportunity to use an LED fixture on my own tanks so my opinion comes strictly from the reading I've done as well as veiwing a number of the fixtures on other peoples tanks. I do have both MH and T5 only lit tanks and have experimented with many of the currently available products. As with many things in this hobby, it's all about your perspective, your wallet and the goals of the system you are trying to light. Here's what I have found in my quest to optimally light my tanks.

The components that are used will have a dramatic impact on the PAR and color that you will ultimately get from the setup you install!

In the MH space, you need to look at all 3 components (Ballast, Reflector & Bulb). There have been some significant strides in the quality of reflectors available to the hobby. These better reflectors increase the upfront cost of a setup but, IMHO, are well worth the additional expense. There is a ton of information available to help pick a ballast/bulb combo. Your personal perception of color and the PAR that will be needed for the biotope you choose to replicate along with the dimensions of your display will determine the optimal combo (other factors like energy usage, heat, etc. might also be a consideration).

T5s were the new technolgy just a few years ago and there have been some dramtic improvements in the colors of the bulbs that are available for use. One of the advantages of the T5 is this ability to mix and match colors to get the color that looks best to you. As with MH, component choice can have an impact on the overall effectiveness of the system but, IMHO, as long as individual reflectors are used, not as dramatic as the differences that some choices that can be made in a MH setup. Ballast choice is basically between spec ballasts (Triad, Sylvania, Fulham) which will normally drive the bulbs versus overdriving them with an IceCap ballast. This won't have any impact on the color of the light produced but will affect the PAR and potentially the life of the bulb (although there is quite a bit of debate on this matter). The reflector choice is basically between the IceCap SLRs, the SLS Tek II reflectors and, if you can find them, the older SLS Tek reflectors (there are also some very good european reflectors however they are not readily available here in the US). As mentioned above, there are quite a few bulbs available and again, the choices here will be determined by the color and PAR you are looking for.
 
Roland Jacques;116369 wrote:
I think the PAR readings on those t-5s were not in water, and only for comparision between t-5 lamps. I thought you were saying that they had a single t-5 that could put out 250 PAR underwater.

I did quite a bit of testing on my old T5 setup using the older Tek reflectors and both spec and Icecap ballasts. I never tested individual bulbs but with that 6 bulb setup I would easily get PAR reading exceeding 250 in the upper half of the tank. I was still getting reading approaching 170 on the sand bed.
 
Roland Jacques;116369 wrote: MH Lamp life
“If a bulb is not replaced at six months, when it has lost 20% of its output, then why would we replace it at 12 months when its output has fallen only another 6%?”
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php</a>
[B]T-5 lamp life[/B]
Cant find much yet on T-5 intencity decliene

I did not Know that sanjay had any longivity data. ill try to find that.[/QUOTE]I read some of Sanjay's work where he had several MH bulbs that inside a year were producing well less than 50% of their max output. One even became almost unusable at the 6 month mark. I think it depends on the quaility and output of the bulb. I know several companies that grow corals rotate their bulbs on a 2 year mark but they also buy good bulbs. I doubt those chinese knock offs produce PAR comparible to good bulbs and certainly doubt they last as long.

[QUOTE=][B]Roland Jacques;116369 wrote:[/B] I think the PAR readings on those t-5s were not in water, and only for comparision between t-5 lamps. I thought you were saying that they had a single t-5 that could put out 250 PAR underwater.[/QUOTE]They weren't but they were also the bear readings without reflectors or any other enhancement. Here is Sams numbers with a relatively modest setup:

[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4695">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4695</a>

He reads 420par right below the surface and 350par half way down to the tank.
 
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