Who can tell me why my overflow does this?

shanepike

shanepike

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Just got my 90g hooked Saturday night, and I can't get my overflow set right. Here's what it's doing (you may have to click the header if the video isn't showing up):

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I know this is a common problem, and I'm off to research it, but this was my first stop. I knew lots of you have probably had the same issue.
 
Easiest way to fix is reduce the flow from your return pump. I had the issue myself and that fixed the problem. I would like to up the flow on my return pump so i am still adjusting things. Do you have an airline at the top of the pipe?
 
the tank im setting up is doing this as well. i believe it is the overflow creating a siphon, and you just need to make the breather hole larger to stop it from happening
 
The overflow pipe has a small hole at the top. Maybe I can expand it. (Will research to see if that's a good idea, though.)

Reducing the flow from the return pump is out because (as far as I can tell), it's not adjustable. I'd have to do it with plumbing.
 
ShanePike;774334 wrote: The overflow pipe has a small hole at the top. Maybe I can expand it. (Will research to see if that's a good idea, though.)

Reducing the flow from the return pump is out because (as far as I can tell), it's not adjustable. I'd have to do it with plumbing.
Click to expand...

That's how i did it. Have a ball valve after the pump. Just adjusted it till the "flushing" stopped.
 
Interesting, this link says that the air hole at the top is not</em> the cause: http://www.dursostandpipes.com/faq/45-flushing-effect-why-does-the-water-level-go-up-and-down">http://www.dursostandpipes.com/faq/45-flushing-effect-why-does-the-water-level-go-up-and-down</a> Can't argue with experience, though.

I may end up going the ball valve route if I can't get it fixed any other way.
 
spankdog;774346 wrote: That's how i did it. Have a ball valve after the pump. Just adjusted it till the "flushing" stopped.
Click to expand...

+1

The best way is to install a ball valve and reduce the flow.
 
Start by making sure the pin hole is not clogged. I've had the problem with junk building up and causing the same response. Just make sure the pin hole is open all the way through.
 
Two (or three) votes for ball valve :)

The hole at the top is definitely open; I can feel the air rushing out of it.
 
While I agree that the ball valve and reduced flow would solve the problem there is a drawback. Reduced Flow! LOL If it were me, I would PM a couple of the guys I mentioned and see what they have to say about it. Another thing I thought about but didn't mention when I was there there was installing an air pump that would force air into the breather. Drawback to that is that the air pump will add noise. LOL I really think it is more to do with adjustment but since I have never had that style I couldn't say for certain.
 
I really just think that there is too much flow for the Durso to do its job. Couple of options...look into going the Bean animal route...Durso seems unable to handle the flow up till the point it reaches full siphon...then it starts the process over.

CJ

Edit:
ShanePike;774334 wrote: The overflow pipe has a small hole at the top. Maybe I can expand it. (Will research to see if that's a good idea, though.)
Click to expand...

This may also work. I have a feeling until you FORCE a siphon such as a Bean or Herbie...that you will fix one problem (flow) while creating a new issue (noise)

CJ
 
mine has a ball valve in line already, but i would prefer to get the overflow breathing right instead of reducing the turnover rate.
 
MustangCaleb;774363 wrote: mine has a ball valve in line already, but i would prefer to get the overflow breathing right instead of reducing the turnover rate.
Click to expand...

+1 But then again, I love my bean animal. hehehehe
 
rdnelson99;774365 wrote: +1 But then again, I love my bean animal. hehehehe
Click to expand...

Bean is where you reduce the rate of the drain line to force a permanent siphon no? I was under the understanding that because the durso is in fact flushing the extra water when a full siphon is reached, that it would be possible to actually have a silent drain system on his tank, without throttle-ing the turnover rate...Full pump speed...and throttle the drain down no?

CJ
 
i have a marineland cube and the overflow box is so small the bulkheads cant even be changed without removing the box. also since i bought the tank used, im basically stuck with the plumbing the way it is before the first union. since the pump is only 600 gph before 4' of heads and 2 reactors on a manifold, im not wanting to dial it back at all. so... that leaves only the overflow to correct
 
The way I understand it (but not certain) the Durso runs on the principle that if air is introduced it has two affects. 1 is that it will prevent a full siphon and the second is that it forces the water to adhear to the walls of the pipe with the air traveling down the center. Bean Animals incoporate the same priciple in a different manner. One drain line runs in a full siphon but is throttled back with a valve so as not to drain the over flow via the sipon. The second incorporates that principle of the Durso by introducing air and allows the whole nine yards to run silent. By attaching an air line to the second drain and running it back to the overflow just above the water line, it will also act as a safety. If water rises enough that the air line is below the surface no air can enter and it becomes a full siphon draining the overflow. In mine, I also installed the 3rd emergency drain. Should one or two fail, three will act as a full siphon drain as well.
 
MustangCaleb;774373 wrote: i have a marineland cube and the overflow box is so small the bulkheads cant even be changed without removing the box. also since i bought the tank used, im basically stuck with the plumbing the way it is before the first union. since the pump is only 600 gph before 4' of heads and 2 reactors on a manifold, im not wanting to dial it back at all. so... that leaves only the overflow to correct
Click to expand...

Feeling adventurous? turn off the pump, remove the durso pipe completely leaving only the bulkhead... add a gate valve to the overflow water going from DT to sump...turn the pump back on, and then start to close the gate valve. at some point the drain will consistently drain, will be dead silent, and not overflow the tank. Only issue is there are no backup drains to prevent the errant snail entering the box and clogging the drain. Float valve return pump kill switch?

CJ
 
I can't view the video.

The breather hole may need to be enlarged but FIRST... check the hose coming out of the drain, to the sump. Often it's longer than it needs to be and people kind of curl it up a bit so that the water draining goes down, then up again, then down into the sump. If there's some up and down, water gets slowed down when it has to go up before it drains into the sump and the back pressure makes it 'stop'. Then the water in the overflow box of the tank, fills up more, gets heavier, and the weight causes it to flush out into the sump. Then there's less water in the overflow box (less weight) so it backs up again in the hose, until the weight in the overflow box flushes it out again.

Sort of like a P-trap under the sink (sort of kind of..)

Make sure the drain hose goes down, not down, up and then down and that may resolve the problem ... if that's what the problem is.

Jenn
 
ShanePike;774348 wrote: Interesting, this link says that the air hole at the top is not</em> the cause: http://www.dursostandpipes.com/faq/45-flushing-effect-why-does-the-water-level-go-up-and-down">http://www.dursostandpipes.com/faq/45-flushing-effect-why-does-the-water-level-go-up-and-down</a> Can't argue with experience, though.

I may end up going the ball valve route if I can't get it fixed any other way.[/QUOTE]

I just shortened my drain pipe from about 4 inches below the water in the sump to around 1 inch. I was able to turn up my flow a good bit. My drain goes straight down from the overflow to the sump, no bends.
Click to expand...
 
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