Who has successfully swapped tanks?

[snowmansnow]

GaJeep94YJ;1101572 wrote: Thanks for all the info guys! It really helps.

My current issue I have to figure out is the sump. The be setup came with a rs75 and a reactor. It's tiny and I'd prefer to keep a larger sump and use a refuge.

So I gotta make a new sump first.

Here's my design of the sump. I drew it using feet instead of inches so it'd print better...

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its pretty awesome that your planned fuge is over 200 sq feet!

 

[gajeep94yj]

Again, feet used because it's easier to see on the computer....

Any constructive criticism?

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[saltwaterwannabe]

anit77;1101571 wrote: Didn't think about the mess the water would be in after the rock removal. Good point!

We should make a stickied thread about this topic.

I am watching it for my move later this year (hopefully before Christmas).

I successfully swapped biocubes without loss and even re-used the sand. Granted, re-used half the water and washed the sand for about 5 minutes. I put everything in a separate 10g with water from the tank that I proceeded to use in the new tank. The entire exchange took about 1 hour. I had no losses and have since been convinced no losses was sheer luck.

 

[porpoiseaquatics]

I have a 150g stock tank that you can borrow. It's been used by several members to make moves.

 

[ralph atl]

Camellia;1101522 wrote: Just curious if your new tank is going in the same place as current tank? If not, the swap is SUPER easy!

If the new system is going in the same location as running system then advise as stated above... +1

If you don't have everything listed below please reach out to members for items rather than purchasing something for a day or two. Members here are incredible generous and understanding on issues like this. It's heartwarming to be part of this club! Other than heaters, I could loan you the remaining..., 35 & 20 gallon brute, tubs/containers, small PH...
(for a few days). PM if needed.

How I've done my last two swaps:

1. Use clean tubs for holding containers (bigger is better).
2. Have on hand same amount of heaters and small powerheads as needed for tubs above. Place tubs on rugs or towels rather than directly on cold tile, countertop, hardwoods etc. (prevent swing in temp when tank water is added).
3. Prepare FRESH water with SAME salt you have been using, better safe than sorry make enough to fill your new system.
4. Test salinity, temp, pH mag calc.. all prams of current tank water and new water. Salt brands are different, our reef depletes/increases prams, any major swing can be extremely problematic.
5. Remove existing water to tubs, move reef to holding containers (much easier to catch fish with less water and little to no rock & coral). Move old system out, setup new system.
6. Add NEW sand and a FEW CUPS of existing sand from previous tank, add 75% fresh saltwater, check parameters again in new tank. Providing prams are identical, add sand, reef then fish.


The above information I had previously typed up for a member a few years ago. Without the allowed time to proof for accuracy, I suggest you do as many (and everyone should). Read all advice given do your own research and take what you feel is best from all accumulated.
The experienced members above most likely had you covered. This was added as it was fingertip information available and hopefully has additional helpful information.

I agree, new sand and insure Salinity, temp, and alk is perfect. Use old rock add Seachem Stability.
I've done this a few times...

 

[gajeep94yj]

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[gajeep94yj]

If anything survives this I'll be impressed.......

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[gajeep94yj]

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[gajeep94yj]

Waters cleared up, all corals staying closed, huge piece of Hollywood stunner shattered into a million pieces, 6 line eraser died, and can't for the life of me figure out how to quiet the overflow down.....

But the move is complete

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[gajeep94yj]

What does an anemone look like when it's dying? Mine is out a little but when I feed it nothing happens. It normally grabs it and pulls it in. Now it's not doing anything when fed.

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[bcavalli]

It's possible he's splitting. They usually split when there is a significant change. They will hide while they heal for a few days. Mine just split the day after I pulled his rock out of the tank while redoing rock work.

 

[jbadd99]

My 120 was moved twice in three years. The first time, I paid Matt at Creation Reef to move it. I lost a single piece of coral and one fish - 95% survival rate of everything else.

The second time I decided to attempt it myself. I lost 90% of everything I had, fish, corals. Now I'm a year in and still trying to recover.

Lessons learned - you should always use new sand, but you've already crossed that bridge. Use Seachem Prime and Stability for at least a week afterwards to help minimize stress and cycle issues. I also didn't use lights other than the room lighting for the first two days after the move to help the stress on the fish.

As for the anemone, give it another few days. Mine stayed looking horrible for a week after the first move before it perked back up.

Good luck.

 

[gajeep94yj]

Things looking better today. Fish still hide when I feed. They slowly come out.

I have terrible noise on the sump from all the water dropping, but I'm going to wait a few days before I mess with anything else.

I have a two part additives, should I be adding those now? It's not prime or stability but would it help?

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[joseayes]

Two part additives are meant to raise and keep parameters as alkalinity and Calcium. I don't think they'll do much of help in you tank now.
The suggested Seachem conditioners are meant to help, add and maintain the good bacteria and avoid any possible crash from decay bacteria that happens very often when we move tanks or mess with the tank contents, filtration, changing water, dead inhabitants etc.
There's some other products that claim to reduce the stress on the livestock, haven't used myself but others said they have successfully use them.
I know it might be late to comment about the move because it's been done, but just for the record and related to the title, and more likely because I couldn't find someone to mention here it's that some fish store could provide you with Styrofoam containers if you ask them, this insulated containers are great when you have to keep your fish or coral for longer periods, travel or just withing your house, if you could be worried about coral stinging bag them separately. But like I've said, you have gone to this process, it just might help others now.

 

[gajeep94yj]

So what I'm hearing is I'm not out of the woods yet....

I'm going to swing my pure reef today and I'll pick up some of that conditioning stuff.

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[Adam]

If you haven't tested your parameters then don't dose two part. Test first, then dose if needed.

Adding some bacteria should help some if you're seeing ammonia or nitrite getting high. In my QT tank when I see ammonia hit .02 or higher I add a cap full of Bio-spira and it takes care of it. In your tank the dose would be higher.

Right now you want to keep things as stable as possible. Test for ammonia and nitrite daily, if either get to high add some Prime and do a water change as soon as you can. An Ammonia badge wont hurt either. With the water changes you've been and will be doing your Alk, Cal & Mg should be good as well as the nitrate and phos. But it won't hurt to test and be sure.

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

To add to this, one thing that will help you is tp step up your water changes for a few weeks. I did something similar to you but did 50 percent water changes every day for a few days then gradually reduced my water changes over the next coue of weeks. I picked up a phosphate meter towards the end which helped me see when water changes were needed. I never saw an amonia spike, but I also had about 10 times the media needed for my tank size in the sump.

I washed my sand before putting in the new tank and I had no losses - but am certain a lot of luck was involved. Keep checking water parameters and step up water changes are the two things I did. I also added a gfo bag and replaced my carbon a few times.

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[camellia]

To reduce noise:

You can add the thick felt filter socks (and use the thin inside the thick for double duty) it will cut your return splash to a minimum.
If you do not have filter socks or don't want to use them an alternative is to drill 10-15 1/4" holes randomly through a pices of PVC. Insert into your bulk head making sure it's long enough to be at sumps water level or below.

If it's not the water splashing into the sump you're hearing, where do you think it's coming from?

Pictures always help us help you tremendously.


IMO and I'm sure most all agree that any new system that is set up is going to be louder when set up and quiet down substantially over a few months.

 

[gajeep94yj]

The noise is the trapped air coming down the dorso and bubbling in the sump. I've already tried the drilled pvc. It changed the noise but still loud.

I also have a sock on there now.

I'll go grab some pics

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[gajeep94yj]

Argh, food some reason tapatalk is no longer allowing pics!

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