Who runs UV?

gnashty

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I am thinking of removing my UV from my system and selling it for some other needed peices of equip. Its a coralife 18w turbotwist and I could use the room and $$

How many of you that have tanks over 150gal do not run UV? if you do, what do you run and does it flow inline through your whole system (every drop of return water runs thru it) or just pulls out of sump and puts back in?

I would hate to make a fatal decision but I run mine hanging on the sump with a rio 600 feeding it and it dumps back into the sump. I just dont see how this method is as effective as it could possibly be......and if it aint doin me no good then i want it gone!
 
I dont see a large difference in clarity with or without it personally but i also only run it at 55-100 gph.
 
An 18w coralife uv will do nothin for your tank, Gary. Get rid of it and buy something more useful, IMO.

I've seen what the right uv can do for aquariums. They can and do kill parasites if sized correctly. Also, their algae killing ability is phenomenal. I'll do a write up of what I've found in a seperate thread so we all can argue/discuss the merits one way or the other. It should be a fun thread :)

Ozone is amazing with regards to water clarity, but it can de dangerous to use. If used correctly and carefully, I love me some O3 too.
 
skriz;519877 wrote: an 18w coralife uv will do nothin for your tank, gary. Get rid of it and buy something more useful, imo.

I've seen what the right uv can do for aquariums. They can and do kill parasites if sized correctly. Also, their algae killing ability is phenomenal. I'll do a write up of what i've found in a seperate thread so we all can argue/discuss the merits one way or the other. It should be a fun thread :)

ozone is amazing with regards to water clarity, but it can de dangerous to use. If used correctly and carefully, i love me some o3 too.

+1
 
I figured it did next to nothing for me if at all. I guess i will sell it to someone whose tank can benefit from it and save for the "right one" - Ill be following your thread Raj.

Thanks everyone for the input
 
Skriz;519877 wrote: An 18w coralife uv will do nothin for your tank, Gary. Get rid of it and buy something more useful, IMO.

I've seen what the right uv can do for aquariums. They can and do kill parasites if sized correctly. Also, their algae killing ability is phenomenal. I'll do a write up of what I've found in a seperate thread so we all can argue/discuss the merits one way or the other. It should be a fun thread :)

Ozone is amazing with regards to water clarity, but it can de dangerous to use. If used correctly and carefully, I love me some O3 too.

+1

320 watts on my system. One of the best investments in my opinion.
 
Simon.Kruger;519920 wrote: +1

320 watts on my system. One of the best investments in my opinion.

:unsure: I will never be able to afford that. but im sure i can find something suitable for my needs without taking out a loan!
 
1100 gallon reef system with some very expensive rare fish. It's as simple as that. UV works not only for water quality but for parasite control (if sized correctly).

Mine is designed to have a flow rate of 1000 gallons per hour through it.
 
Assault;519960 wrote: I'm not totally sure, but if you we're to have the misfortune of placing a host infected with Ich or other harmful algae UV will still prevent the spread through out the system, will it not?

unfortunately, i dont think so. from what ive read only the ich in the water column that passes thru the UV will be killed, the ich on the fish and on the sandbed will not be affected by UV. only "cure" of ich i know of is a tank fallow of fish for 4-6 weeks.
 
Assault;519960 wrote: I'm not totally sure, but if you we're to have the misfortune of placing a host infected with Ich or other harmful algae UV will still prevent the spread through out the system, will it not?

Yes. Let's consider cryptocaryons:

It has a specific life cycle. When ich is attached to the fish (trophont stage), it is feeding (it is a parasite). During the trophont stage, it cannot reproduce. After feeding, it will drop off the fish and find a place in the substrate to attach (protomont stage). When it attaches, it encysts and begins to reproduce via cell division (tomont stage). It will produce many, many tomites which will then be released into the water column to find a host (theront stage). It is at this point where the UV plays a critical factor. Theronts only have about 24 hours to find a host fish before dying. If employing the correctly sized and setup UV, any and all theronts that pass through the UV will be killed instantly, stopping the reproductive cycle in its tracks.

I size a UV to have a 1x turnover rate, meaning that 100% (theoretical) of your water will pass through the UV in 1 hour. It would be pretty safe to say that within a few hours, 100% (actual) of the water has</em> passed through the UV.
 
Here's also a good thread to help you understand it. However Dave and Raj are 100% correct.

showthread.php
 
I have seen UV work with my own eyes. I have had ich problems in the past. UV works great but as everyone has stated it must be sized right.
 
Quarantine procedures of both fish and corals</em> are important as well as water quality, healthy fish to began with and keeping them well fed without compromising water quality. As Raj. stated in theory all the water should have passed through the uv with a turnover every hour I'd bet money on that happening . I think Raj sees it as I do while there is no miracle "cure all" an uv can be a very instrumental part of a healthy marine environment along with the other critical parts.
 
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