Who's keeping Acans under LEDs

brandonmason

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SO I have a frag of Acans under LEDs and they never "puffed" up like they did in the store so I decided while I was doing some testing of PAR why not go ahead and check the PAR where my Acan was located and it was 230 so I moved them down yesterday to 80-100 PAR. I guess my question is when do you think I should expect to see a difference. Its been 24 hours and they looked the same today. My LEDs are bridgelux bulbs and another colony of Acans I have are doing fine, I have not seen anything pick at them but havent quite ruled it out yet.

Water Parameters
salinity 1.024
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
phosphates 0
calcium 420
magnesium 1300
 
Oh alk is 8 my bad Sea Cheam was used for test... the only coral in my tank that doesn't open

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I'm thinking its going to have to acclimate to new lighting location or I'm hoping that's the case

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Acans take a little bit to settle in.... Acans, like most coral don't like changes in light... Think of it like this, ur sleeping and someone blasts a light in ur face, it would shock u and suck!.... Or a better option, waking up gradually w the sun.... Just give em time and plenty of nutrients.... Also, Acans are notorious for morphing
 
Assuming no other issues in health of the animal. What color is it?
What light is it? So we can look at the spectrum. Though intensity may be arguably primary. Maybe it's spectrum issue.
Isnt just recently strong 420-430nm uva actinic hyper violets are in newer units?
This is one of the chloraphyll A bands. Corals can shift to the more low light efficient chrophyall B in the royal blue 455nm band if no 420 -430 is available. The need less surface area to make energy, hence smaller. Especially since the Par may be very high in the chrophyall b 455nm band.

Even small amounts of UVB and USC are may enhance pigmentation and health.

Or maybe there is not enough 420-430 actinic to get the chroaphyll A zoox really heathy and the chloraphyll B chloroplast are taking over and making it unhealthy.

I have a three head and spouting buds frag that is doing fat'tastic great at 12 inches under a 14k 150 halide and 98w PC actinics. The lights just crack on. Royal blue moon leds. Giant healthy ricordias are close by. They get some good natural sun for a a few minutes in the morning. The sun will kick on the chiler.I keep S.G. At 1.026 . Temature a balmy 78* .I just got them a few months ago. It starting doing better and better right of the bat.Not to ditz, just info.
 
darrrenjmartin;883929 wrote: Assuming no other issues in health of the animal. What color is it?
What light is it? So we can look at the spectrum. Though intensity may be arguably primary. Maybe it's spectrum issue.
Isnt just recently strong 420-430nm uva actinic hyper violets are in newer units?
This is one of the chloraphyll A bands. Corals can shift to the more low light efficient chrophyall B in the royal blue 455nm band if no 420 -430 is available. The need less surface area to make energy, hence smaller. Especially since the Par may be very high in the chrophyall b 455nm band.

Even small amounts of UVB and USC are may enhance pigmentation and health.

Or maybe there is not enough 420-430 actinic to get the chroaphyll A zoox really heathy and the chloraphyll B chloroplast are taking over and making it unhealthy.

I have a frag that is doing fat'tastic great at 12 inches under a 14k 150 halide and 98w PC 03 actinic. I keep S.G. At 1.026 . Not to ditz, just info.

Lol....now that's an explanation! Believe me, next time I have a lighting question, I can totally bypass the manufacture and PM u....
 
No joke... you lost me at hello...

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I've got multiple (10-15) acan colonies under Chinese 120w bridgelux fixtures. I frag these colonies as Well. Acans are fickle. you could have two of the same acans sitting side-by-side one of them will thrive and the other one will die. Just give it time. Chances are it will send out feeder tentacles at night so you may want to check that out.
This is a really hard question to answer as I have some acans frags (from the same mother) in very high flow areas some and medium flow areas in some an low flow areas.
 
Its feeding tentacles are out every night, Im beginning to wonder if they are getting nipped on Im going to put some eggcrate over it just to be safe
 
I've got 8 different Acans, some are much higher in the tank than others. The ones that are closest to my Radion XRPro have doubled in size in about 6 months. These also get great flow as well. My Acans that don't get as much flow seem to be the unhappiest in my tank.
I have a orange toned Rainbow Acan that I got from Greg Lennerd not quite a year ago. It was 3 heads now it's about 18 heads and just popped open a Green/Blue/yellow head!?! i had no idea they did this! Has anyone seen this before?
 
I have 4 so called ultra acan colonies under Ecotech Radion Pros and they love it. I have an acan frag pack coming in today to add some more to the tank. I think the trick with LEDs is to find the intensity settings the acans like, either by manipulating the percentage the LEDs are on or by varying the height they hang from. I just got these Radion Pros (upgraded from Gen 1 Radions w TIRs), so I am acclimating the tank to them slowly for about 4 weeks. The 4 acans I have now have been under the G1s I used to have for many months. I don't think you can have a better light for LPS/soft corals than LEDs.
 
I have a few acan colonies under kessil A350 LEDs . They are puffed and happy from top to bottom.

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ECCOTECH RADIAN PRO SPEC</em>
&#8226; </em>Royal Blue: 8 Cree XT-E Royal Blue, 442nm (5w each)
&#8226; </em>Indigo: 4 SemiLEDs UV, 415nm (2.5w each)
&#8226; </em>Ultraviolet: 4 SemiLEDs UV, 405nm (2.5w each)
 
A lot of people have trouble with acans / led's. Cherry Corals will not guarantee their "Rainbow" acans will keep their color under LED's... My personal experience is that all of mine turned orange or red. I run an AI SOL Blue over a 60 cube. Acans on the sand off to the side.
 
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