Will 15amps be enough?

geno

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I'm setting up my 125 and have become concerned about having enough power, i.e. tripping the breaker that all this stuff plugs into.

Here's what I have so far:
1 BlueLine pump (290watts consumption)
1 Little Giant (3-MDQX-SC) don't know energy consumption
2 Koralia 4
1 Outer Orbit (3 x150 MH) + (4x96 Actinics) + (8 Moon LEDs)
1 20" Current-USA 40watt x 2 light (Refugium)
Neptune ACJr + DC8

I checked the breaker for all of this and it's only 15 amps. Is this going to be a problem at this point?

What have you done to deal with this issue?

Thanks,
-geno
 
Most likely going to be enough if your tank is the only thing on that circuit. Just what you've listed above (no fans, heaters, etc) is well over 10A (probably closer to 13-14) leaving no room for anything else.

If you have an extra breaker you can run another line or you can run an extetion from another circuit and split the load.
 
Is there anything else on this circuit?

I'll let someone else comment on the load but I suspect that you're okay unless you add other 'stuff' or there are other loads on this same circuit.

Make sure that you put a GFCI on this circuit.

I have a 20amp circuit dedicated to the aquarium.
 
One 15amp circuit will probably NOT be enough. Even though a circuit is rated at 15amps, it has been my experience (again, just my experience) that it doesn't like more than about 10amps to 12amps of constant use. It seems to trip the breaker more often. Also, you CAN'T upgrade the breaker to 20amps unless you have 12ga wire, (15amp circuits generally have 14ga wire) it could over load the wire and cause a fire. Like kwl1763 said, you can add another breaker and run another circuit or change the existing 14ga wire to 12ga wire and change the existing 15amp breaker to a 20amp breaker, a lot of work either way. I just ran an extension cord from another circuit, much easier. :yes: And yes, a GFCI device is a must, either a GFCI receptacle placed first in line on the circuit or a GFCI breaker in the panel.

The way to find out amps is take the total wattage consumed and divide by 120, (example: 1200 watts / 120 = 10amps)
 
Just to add to that, you have to take into account spike voltages. If everything is up and then your last MHs fire that could easily spike enough to blow a breaker that your running 13A steady state on. Worse yet would be during a power outage and they all try to fire at the same time!
 
I don't think a 15 amp circuit will be enough. Normally you do not want to exceed 80% of the capacity of the circuit's capacity and you're above that already and you do not have a heater listed which should be 3 watts per gallon or 300 or more watts which would put you over what a 15 amp circuit can handle.

Separately, please confirm thats this circuit that you're considering is 15 amps. Most wall outlet circuits are 20 amp circuits and 15 amp circuits are for lighting nowadays.

Bob
 
Not enough!

You want to split it; if for nothing else to act as a safegaurd so if a breaker trips, it doesn't shut off everything.

My return pump, skimmer, and calcium reactor are on a dedicated 15 amp circuit.

My lighting is on a dedicated 20 amp ckt.

Everything else on a third 15 amp ckt.

If something happens, it won't affect my return circulation or vice versa.

As keith alreeady said, the mh will use more amps to start the bulb than it will to run them.
 
Not enough!

You want to split it; if for nothing else to act as a safegaurd so if a breaker trips, it doesn't shut off everything.

My return pump, skimmer, and calcium reactor are on a dedicated 15 amp circuit.

My lighting is on a dedicated 20 amp ckt.

Everything else on a third 15 amp ckt.

If something happens, it won't affect my return circulation or vice versa.

As keith alreeady said, the mh will use more amps to start the bulb than it will to run them.
 
Well, you all confirmed my fears.

Yes, I forgot to mention the heaters -- I have 2 150watt Visi-Therm Stealths.

The tank is in the living room on a wall with 2 outlets. I bought a circuit finder from HD and tested both outlets -- they are on the same circuit as is the outlet across the room. Thus, I'm not sure how to split the load. There is no room on the other side of the wall -- so I can't tap into any other outlets.

Changing the wiring is not an option -- I guess I'll call an electrician and see what he can recommend.

Gee, I was making such good progress. Today I put in the substrate and some base rock -- no water yet (the sand is not live).

Thanks again for your help.

-geno
 
Why are there two pumps? Is one for the skimmer?

The best thing would be to get pumps that are super energy efficient. Another option in a bind would be to redo lighting with only MHs and do maybe 3 150s in a 14 or 20k with no actinic.

Depending on where in the house and if you have room on your panel running an extra line could be very easy to do.
 
With your heaters you are at 13.6 amps so you should barely be OK if you don't have your TV, computer, lamps, etc plugged into this same circuit.

You should get another circuit if you can...
 
I really do appreciate the advice -- some excellent suggestions have been made.

Nothing else is plugged into any of the outlets for the tank -- except the Roomba -- which can be moved.

Below is my further analysis of the load. I decided to look at the diversity factor, i.e. everything won't be running all the time -- so my big concern will be during restart after a power outage. Perhaps my controller can be programmed to bring things back on in some orderly fashion rather than all at once. I'll ask Cameron to program it for me.



Watts Equipment total amps always on
290 return pump 24/7 290
24 powerheads 24/7 24
80 sump light cycled

300 heaters cycled

834 orbit light cycled

100 skimmer pump 24/7 100 total 1628

414 volts 120
13.56666667










Max 1800 120 15


I might be able to make this work:roll:

-geno
 
so not to sound like a dummy or nothing--but is it just a matter of switching out a breaker?? or wiring?? what exactly would take place?? if I wanted to add a breaker how hard would that be?? I mean-you don't have to go into great detail-but just the "jist" of it :)
 
You can't just switch the breaker. It depends on what gauge the wiring is. I think if it's 14g, then the max is 15 amp. If it's 12g, then you can go 20 amp.

If you wanted to add a breaker, you can do that. You just have to run wiring into the panel and to the place where you want the new outlet to be. wire everything up on the outlet end, then wire it into the panel and add the breaker. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF AND KIDS, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.
 
oh, yeah-I'd def. get an electrician to do that--was just wondering as to how hard it would be (i.e. $$$$)
 
I am an Electrician and a lot of the cost is fishing the walls and ease of access ie.. attic or unfinished basment... distance to panel and such. I have put in new outlets for anywhere from $75 to $450. just depends on how hard and how much time it takes. Sorry I could not give you a price Anyone who would quote one without looking at the job, I wouldn't want doing my work.
 
OH, I forgot to say for safetys sake I would add a 20 amp circuit on a GFI breaker and use the 15 amp circuit as an "emergancy" circuit. Emergancy meaning you had a power head or 2 on it for flow if the GFI trips. PM if you want any more info...

JJ
 
13.57 Amps will be too much for a 15 Amp breaker. Max load should be 80% of the breakers capacity to keep things safe. Best way to know for sure would be to turn all your devices on the tank and use an Ampmeter and see what the actual draw is in different conditions. If it was my tank I would just add a 20 amp dedicated Circuit like Rockdog suggested and have some peace of mind.
 
ericmcj31;151883 wrote: oh, yeah-I'd def. get an electrician to do that--was just wondering as to how hard it would be (i.e. $$$$)


It's doable; the hardest part is routing the new wire. If you have to go through a lot of studs, that's a lot of drywall that needs to be redone:sad: .

I rewired a room and added a fan and light in the ceiling. Not all too difficult, but messy more than anything else.
 
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