WOODEN floor

[snowmansnow]

any advice on how to avoid problems on a wood floor?

thinking of moving a tank to a hardwood room.
I'm not opposed to building something ...
thanks,

B

 

[kilralpine]

I would love advice on this as well, im having difficulty with the tank shaking when someone walks through the room; have wooden strips roughly 2 inches wide. I put 8 adjustable 2 ton feet on the bottom of mine to deal with the leveling but still have the shakes unless I put a piece of plywood ect under the feet; even then it only reduces it by like half. I can literally take my pinky and push on this new 110 and it will move at least a quarter of an inch without wood under it.

 

[grouper therapy]

SnowManSnow;880526 wrote: any advice on how to avoid problems on a wood floor?

thinking of moving a tank to a hardwood room.
I'm not opposed to building something ...
thanks,

B

Keep them dry

Edit: The biggest problem is when something is placed under the stand to protect the floor and no air is allowed under it when it does get wet.

 

[tonkajeep600]

grouper therapy;880609 wrote: Keep them dry

Edit: The biggest problem is when something is placed under the stand to protect the floor and no air is allowed under it when it does get wet.

uh yeah didnt think of that one..ive got a 55bow, and 135 on hardwood...looks like i will be following this thread for some ideas.

the whole keep them dry idea, i had a rubbermaid type sump on the 135 and it cracked WIDE open...the wife was not happy with me. my tank is now empty sitting on the floor waiting for new parts.

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

SnowManSnow: Is the tank going on the bottom floor, or is it on the second or third floor?

Not trying to be funny, but if the wood floor was laid correctly, there should be no problems. All of my tanks are set on wood floors. Ther is no carpet in my house. I've had a couple of leaks in my sump closet behind my tank, and had to remove my sump, and air dry it for a couple of days (if left wet, the glue would've given out, and the wood would've buckled), but no issues.

I've had a 55, 75, 120, and now my 225g tanks all in the same spot at one time or another, and even when I moved my 75 and 55 to my office, they all sat level, and there was never a need to reinforce, or shim my stands to sit even on the floor.

Wood is allot stringer and durable than we give it credit for. When I work on my muscle cars, and I don't need my lift all of the way up, I stand a single 2x4 under the full car lift, and let the entire weight of the car and lift down on this single piece of wood. As long as it is straight up and down, it holds the car with no problem (if the wood ever broke, the hydraulic fluid can't escape quick enough for the car to fall on me). If your wood floors ever get wet, it's important to lay something heavy and flat on them to keep the wood from buckling, dry the best way you can, and lay something heavy and flat back on it when dry. If you act quick enough, the water will make the glue stay stuck to the wood...

Best of luck!!!

 

[glxtrix]

Might as well go in your stand and silicone or caulk the seams. Paint it with a good water resistant paint so if anything spills, the water will stay in the stand until you clean it up....hopefully. I had a leak in one of my reactors back in the day and it leaked a few gallons of water into my stand....fortunately I prepped the stand and it contained all the water. You could also line the inside with a heavy plastic bag to do the same thing. My 140 is on hardwoods and I have a thin rubber mat under it...maybe not the best thing to have, but it was done several years ago when the tank was set up and I havent done anything about it....so we'll see one the tank is removed.

 

[morganatlanta]

Install a small drain in your stand and route it to the outside like you would a hot water heater. Mine is just a hole that goes into the dugout basement. Saved me a couple times already.

Edit:

kilralpine;880529 wrote: I would love advice on this as well, im having difficulty with the tank shaking when someone walks through the room; have wooden strips roughly 2 inches wide. I put 8 adjustable 2 ton feet on the bottom of mine to deal with the leveling but still have the shakes unless I put a piece of plywood ect under the feet; even then it only reduces it by like half. I can literally take my pinky and push on this new 110 and it will move at least a quarter of an inch without wood under it.

What support do you have under the floor? When I put up my 125, I had a similar feel when I walked by the tank. I was surprised to find someone had cut the joist directly under the tank for HVAC vents on both ends!

 

[fishdude]

<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">I've had small tanks (30G and less) on wood floors for years with no problems. The wood is going to get wet and is easy to clean up as long as there is a gap between the bottom of stand and floor. I&#8217;ve seen much bigger tanks on wood (up to 200G) and the only problem I have heard off is when a large tank cracked at a bulk head and the owners were out of town. Although this is the only problem I have heard of, it was significant&#8230; over $100K worth of damage to the home.</span></span>

 

[justin13]

I always put a heavy coat of wax down on the area as well just to provide somewhat of a coat to protect it from the salt residue. +1 on the silicone the joints and paint on the inside of the stand. Great tip!

 

[snowmansnow]

CedzAquAddiction;880653 wrote: SnowManSnow: Is the tank going on the bottom floor, or is it on the second or third floor?

Not trying to be funny, but if the wood floor was laid correctly, there should be no problems. All of my tanks are set on wood floors. Ther is no carpet in my house. I've had a couple of leaks in my sump closet behind my tank, and had to remove my sump, and air dry it for a couple of days (if left wet, the glue would've given out, and the wood would've buckled), but no issues.

I've had a 55, 75, 120, and now my 225g tanks all in the same spot at one time or another, and even when I moved my 75 and 55 to my office, they all sat level, and there was never a need to reinforce, or shim my stands to sit even on the floor.

Wood is allot stringer and durable than we give it credit for. When I work on my muscle cars, and I don't need my lift all of the way up, I stand a single 2x4 under the full car lift, and let the entire weight of the car and lift down on this single piece of wood. As long as it is straight up and down, it holds the car with no problem (if the wood ever broke, the hydraulic fluid can't escape quick enough for the car to fall on me). If your wood floors ever get wet, it's important to lay something heavy and flat on them to keep the wood from buckling, dry the best way you can, and lay something heavy and flat back on it when dry. If you act quick enough, the water will make the glue stay stuck to the wood...

Best of luck!!!

the only floor we have.. 1st floor

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

Cool. If the floor is laid well and on top of a concrete slab, you should be good. :yes:

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[sn4k33y3z]

I'm working on having some marine grade vinyl installed on the bottom that will come up roughly 2" to create a big catch-can.

 

[stevhan]

My tanks are both on hardwood floors. it helps that I have my sump in a room under my stairs away from the floors. My washer however floods every time my wife washes our sheets. When this happens I throw down a bunch of towels and use fans to dry up the wood. So far I have not had any issues with the floors that are easily seen. Once was pretty bad and the wood swelled but came back to its original feel.

 

[snowmansnow]

CedzAquAddiction;882859 wrote: Cool. If the floor is laid well and on top of a concrete slab, you should be good. :yes:

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no slab here. I'll need to go up under inside the crawlspace and reinforce things to the ground

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

Aaaahhhh. Now I see your concerns.

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