0.0 Nitrate, 0.0 Phosphate.....Dammit

wantsummora acropora

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I lost a few corals trying to wrap my head around this issue. It's been this way since early June. It started while I was out of town on vacation. I switched from frozen to pellets. That was the only change but I'm still vague on the cause. I'm feeding a more nutrient dense food. The same amount if not slightly more. I have no visible algae issues (but hair algae is starting to pop up. Very minor at this stage). My reef is 9 months old, I am still going through phases but its becoming more stable. Zoas, acans and nems are all happy. I've lost 1 WD, 1 HW, 1Yellow tip and 1Tubbs Blue Stellata. My Reef: 150 gallons, filtration = a Clarisea 5000, and a Nyos 160 skimmer. Lights= 5x Kessil A360x. I am currently only addressing the issue with increased feeding. Please chime in.
 
Running any removal methods like a refugium or GFO that might be sucking up the phosphates? I've found that the combo of a good rollermat and a skimmer can really export nutrients too well sometimes. At the moment we are actually dosing small amounts of liquid nitrate additive each day to keep a measurable amount in the system. How many fish? If your nutrient export is greater than your import you can dial back the export method (tune skimmer/rollermat), feed more/different food, or start dosing what you are missing in a controlled manner (Neo phos/neo nitro). Fish usually appreciate a little extra food to a point. I would see what you can adjust with your export or feeding before you go the route of dosing nutrients back into the tank.
 
What is your temperature and salinity, and what tools are you using to measure each?

Im not discounting the possibility for low nutrients being a factor. But so far, of every person ive ever done aquarium consultations, including back when it was my job, ive never once had low nutrients being the sole/primary cause. Well over 90% (maybe over 95%) of the time, there is a broken heater, thernometer, ATO... other times, there is various other big issues (stray voltage, pests like nudis, crazy high alk, etc). Temp and salinity are always the big culprits, so I recommend double or triple checking them.

Also, ive kept ultra low nutrient tanks with no issues for years. So im in the minority when everyone else is quick to blame low nutrients. Ive never seen them as an issue that kills corals in aquariums yet. From my perspective, they are an easy target for people to assign blame, yet are potentially never the actual cause.
 
What is your temperature and salinity, and what tools are you using to measure each?

Im not discounting the possibility for low nutrients being a factor. But so far, of every person ive ever done aquarium consultations, including back when it was my job, ive never once had low nutrients being the sole/primary cause. Well over 90% (maybe over 95%) of the time, there is a broken heater, thernometer, ATO... other times, there is various other big issues (stray voltage, pests like nudis, crazy high alk, etc). Temp and salinity are always the big culprits, so I recommend double or triple checking them.

Also, ive kept ultra low nutrient tanks with no issues for years. So im in the minority when everyone else is quick to blame low nutrients. Ive never seen them as an issue that kills corals in aquariums yet. From my perspective, they are an easy target for people to assign blame, yet are potentially never the actual cause.
Temp 79, salinity 1.026. 2 BRS titanium heaters with digital controller backed up by an Apex. Temp and salinity also on Apex backed up by a Hannah checker. None of the other issues you’ve mentioned. The only change I can see is me switching food.
 
Both 79F and 1.026 are slightly high. Im less worried about salinity if thats the true number. Are you using any form of refractometer? And have you double checked your calibration?

As for temp, 79 is on the dangerous side. Assuming thats a true number, ive seen mushrooms die at that temp, but acros are still usually fine... they just get upset above 79.0 ... However, you provided 3 means of testing temp, but only 1 temperature. Also, all 3 of those means provide 3 digits, and you provided 2. Also, your apex should provide a range, not just a single data point. Could you provide a little clarity? For something so vital, its good that we dont take shortcuts. Also, have you double checked that recently against a glass mercury thermometer? Several years ago, i had all 3 of my digitals fail slightly and in the same direction, and nearly crashed my tank if i didnt check it. Fortunately, my glass thermometer caught the issue.
 
Also, im not saying that temp and salinity are the sole factors or even contributing factors... just that of the several hundred consultations, they usually are.

I cant check temperature, livestock interactions, pests, stray voltage, etc without being there in person. But if you can get a clean water bottle and take a large sample of water, i can check everything else if you want a second set of eyes.
 
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