150g Stand Canopy (designed/built for GiulianoM)
- Thread starter rededge2k1
- Start date
- Messages
- 5,121
- Reaction score
- 7
If done properly with the correct wash coats and toners applied in conjunction with the correct type of stain, the natural characteristics of the wood can be tremendously enhanced by adding stain IMO. I would agree in this case with the maple as it is one of the more diffilcult woods to stain with good results. It can be done but requires more steps than some of the more favorable woods for staining.RedEDGE2k1;670018 wrote: I wouldn't stain it at all, I would just seal it and finish with clear coat only (polyurethane, since there will be water dripped on it eventually).
I'm not a fan of stains in general, I think they only hide what lies beneath. If a piece of furniture is built properly and out of the proper wood species, there's no need to stain in my opinion. If someone wants a dark piece of furniture then it should be built out of a dark wood species like walnut or mahogany. If someone wants a cherry bookcase, then it should be built out of cherry with only a clear finish -- not built out of poplar, birch, or some other cheap wood species and stained to look like cherry!
Ok, that's my rant for the day.
Dustin
Edit:
Yeah, things are starting to pile up and I'm quickly running out of room. It's nice to have a wife who knows what I really want for anniversaries/birthdays/Christmas
Dustin
- Messages
- 5,121
- Reaction score
- 7
Keep in mind that if moisture ever does permeate the epoxy in one small spot and wicks to a larger area, the decaying process will be turbo accelerated due to the moisture being locked in by the epoxy coating.
- Messages
- 5,121
- Reaction score
- 7
Anything that will allow water to get to bare wood and doesn't allow the water to escape is worse than no protection.
I started trimming the stand last weekend, and hoped to finish everything this weekend...but it is taking longer than I expected. I don't want any mechanical fasteners (nails, screws) visible on the overall project, so I'm having to attach all of the trim with glue and biscuits. This limits the amount of trim I can install and get clamped down at once. It takes longer, but the finished product will look much better without a bunch of little putty-filled nail holes everywhere on the trim.
Installing the top/horizontal trim on the top edge of the canopy...
alt="" />
After letting the top/horizontal trim sit in the clamps overnight, I then added the top/vertical trim to the top edge of the canopy...
alt="" />
I didn't take a picture of it, but the bottom/horizontal trim was installed in the same manner as the top trim. This completes the trim on the canopy, with the exception of the fluted trim boards at the left/right front corners of the canopy. Those will go on last.
alt="" />
Biscuits and glue hold the stand trim together, two boards at a time. They sit in the clamps overnight to bake.
alt="" />
Clamping the stand top trim to the stand...glue and clamps only.
alt="" />
It's rare that I get to use almost every clamp I have on a single run of trim!
alt="" />
Installing the top/horizontal trim on the top edge of the canopy...
After letting the top/horizontal trim sit in the clamps overnight, I then added the top/vertical trim to the top edge of the canopy...
I didn't take a picture of it, but the bottom/horizontal trim was installed in the same manner as the top trim. This completes the trim on the canopy, with the exception of the fluted trim boards at the left/right front corners of the canopy. Those will go on last.
Biscuits and glue hold the stand trim together, two boards at a time. They sit in the clamps overnight to bake.
Clamping the stand top trim to the stand...glue and clamps only.
It's rare that I get to use almost every clamp I have on a single run of trim!
Thanks!
This project has gotten me addicted to Bessey K-Body clamps (the big red & black ones in the pictures). They're $50 a pop, but worth every penny. The clamp's jaws remain perfectly parallel to each other even under full pressure, which is invaluable for clamping stuff that has to remain at a right angle to whatever it is you're clamping it to. You can even connect two clamps together to get an ungodly long clamp -- notice in the picture above the two Besseys joined together to span the full width of the stand. I love'em!
Dustin
Yeah I think so, I'd actually like to have it finished this week and be able to deliver it to you before this weekend. But, I also told you that I thought I would have it finished by the end of July, and we see what happened there
I'm out of town this weekend (12th-14th) too, I'll be helping a friend build a deck at his house in Birmingham.
We'll figure something out.
Dustin
All good things come to those who wait...
If you want to try for Thursday the 11th in the early evening @ 6:30 PM, that might work. It's usually when I get home from work.
I work at home on Fridays, so if you wanted to try that in the morning or afternoon, that'd be fine too.
If you want to try for Thursday the 11th in the early evening @ 6:30 PM, that might work. It's usually when I get home from work.
I work at home on Fridays, so if you wanted to try that in the morning or afternoon, that'd be fine too.
The trimwork continues...it has been full speed ahead with my day job, so I haven't had as much free time to "play" as I would like. I'm hoping to deliver the stand to Giuliano this Sunday.
alt="" />
alt="" />
alt="" />
alt="" />
alt="" />
Dustin came by this morning and delivered the stand & canopy.
It looks great, the camera phone pictures don't do it justice.
Doors closed:
>
alt="" /></a>
Doors open:
>
alt="" /></a>
Test fit of the sump:
>
alt="" /></a>
Just enough room for the pump:
>
alt="" /></a>
It'll take me a few weeks (if not longer) to sand, stain, and seal.
Although I'm not entirely sure if I will stain it at all - if anything, it would be a light stain.
It looks great, the camera phone pictures don't do it justice.
Doors closed:
Doors open:
Test fit of the sump:
Just enough room for the pump:
It'll take me a few weeks (if not longer) to sand, stain, and seal.
Although I'm not entirely sure if I will stain it at all - if anything, it would be a light stain.
- Messages
- 151
- Reaction score
- 0
What type of wood is it?
Those 2 pieces go together or the top comes off?
Looks real nice!! What type of stain and paint you going with?
Those 2 pieces go together or the top comes off?
Looks real nice!! What type of stain and paint you going with?
It's a removable panel, with the three door panels attached to a plywood board.
The panel is attached to the stand with magnetic door catches...
The panel is moderately heavy with all that wood, but it still pulls off easily.
The opening on the left is 48" wide, just wide enough for me to slip the sump through.
The panel is attached to the stand with magnetic door catches...
The panel is moderately heavy with all that wood, but it still pulls off easily.
The opening on the left is 48" wide, just wide enough for me to slip the sump through.
Giuliano beat me to it, but I'll go ahead and post the final pictures from the build sequence
Routing the fluted trim for the front of the stand & canopy on the router table...
alt="" />
alt="" />
alt="" />
alt="" />
Making cutouts in the "plumbing covers" that sit behind the stand & canopy, these will be attached to the setup with magnets.
alt="" />
alt="" />
Fitting the plywood cover that the three left cabinet doors will attach to. The gaps on each side are intentional, for side-to-side movement to adjust the door spacing even later.
alt="" />
Attaching a 2" plywood cleat to the bottom edge of the door panel. This will secure the bottom edge of the panel to the stand. The top edge will be held in place with magnets.
alt="" />
The next three pictures show how the door panel "locks" onto the bottom of the stand and tilts up into place.
alt="" />
alt="" />
alt="" />
The doors attached to the door panel...
alt="" />
The doors and door panel installed...
alt="" />
The stand complete...
alt="" />
The canopy on the stand, doors open then doors closed.
alt="" />
alt="" />
Routing the fluted trim for the front of the stand & canopy on the router table...
Making cutouts in the "plumbing covers" that sit behind the stand & canopy, these will be attached to the setup with magnets.
Fitting the plywood cover that the three left cabinet doors will attach to. The gaps on each side are intentional, for side-to-side movement to adjust the door spacing even later.
Attaching a 2" plywood cleat to the bottom edge of the door panel. This will secure the bottom edge of the panel to the stand. The top edge will be held in place with magnets.
The next three pictures show how the door panel "locks" onto the bottom of the stand and tilts up into place.
The doors attached to the door panel...
The doors and door panel installed...
The stand complete...
The canopy on the stand, doors open then doors closed.
