180 Stand Question...

most have a piece of acrylic turned at an angle and it fills up with water behind it.
 
eagle9252;778660 wrote: most have a piece of acrylic turned at an angle and it fills up with water behind it.

Sorry, I meant on the backside/side. The side being most important.
 
are u speaking of the area between the wall an the tank?

if so, just stick cabinet door magnets on the wall and tank . then you can click a piece of plywood or whatever in to cover up the stuff
 
I'm talking about being able to see my drain and return pipes when viewing the tank from the side. I'll probably just end up smearing black silicone all over the inside wall of the overflow chamber if nobody has a better idea.
 
If I understand correctly, the tank wall is clear allowing you to see into the overflow correct? If you don't like that, paint the outside of the glass with Krylon Fusion paint. I assume you are going to want the back painted as well right? Just use the same color paint for both.
 
Yeah, I'm going to paint the back. Might as well tape off and tape the side panel where the plumbing shows.
 
OIC.

some have spray painted or you can overlay it with some lexan and drill and tap some rock shelf's on it, some of the new tanks have lined corner over flows. with holes about midway. so when the water goes over the top it is to create a suction and pull some water from the middle of the tank as well.
 
eagle9252;778696 wrote: OIC.

some have spray painted or you can overlay it with some lexan and drill and tap some rock shelf's on it, some of the new tanks have lined corner over flows. with holes about midway. so when the water goes over the top it is to create a suction and pull some water from the middle of the tank as well.

Yeah, mine draws water from the middle and surface, and you can remove the front plate. But there's nothing to keep you from seeing the pipes from the outside.
 
I Cover the back and the sides with vinyl The type they use on cars. It goes on with soap and water. Then if you decide you want another color just take it off and apply another color.


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see... it took a couple of question to find out exactly what you were referring to but yes they make static cling vinyl that can be used. this way you can see inside when you need to.
 
Is this vinyl something they sell at Pep Boys, etc? I've searched on their site but can't find any info.
 
I get mine from a local place called best signs. They make signs for stores and wrap vehicles.


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hd or lowes has them in the mini blind area. at a car parts place you can only get tint. you can co simple or designer.

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Here is a few pic of the vinyl on the sides of my tank. Now it's a little more expensive but IMO it looks better than paint and comes off a lot easier if you need it off.

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I have almost all the pieces cut except the bottom overlaps. I may have to buy some wood as I'd need to use three or four pieces across, instead of two. Unless that's not a problem?

One glitch I can see is that I need around 22" of depth for my sump. The bottom overlaps are going to eat into that 22". Thoughts?
 
That looks good, man. I like the idea of being able to remove it to check things out. I can't tell you how many times I've wished I could see something from the back of the tank! I also have some black acrylic I may use.
 
When you put the vinyl on I was told to add a little bit of dish soap to the spray bottle. When I did it made it a lot easier than just straight water. I placed the vinyl on my 60 cube and never had any problems with it. Now granted, it was my first time applying it and it did not look like a professional job. Lol. But did not look bad either.


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the soap makes it slippery and allows it to move to it's last spot before you get the bubbles out and it drys.

i don't know how many times you can reapply it before it quits working.
 
You just have to keep spraying it with water so it don't dry. Once it drys it's stuck. The back piece on my tank took me about 20 minutes. So it will last a while.


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OK, so I got the side pieces on and have run into a stumper. The pics below will show that the piece joining the extensions does not touch the ground. Also, do I need to add in a vertical piece from the bottom addition to the ground? Lastly, the center "brace" will no longer reach the back of the stand. How important is that piece? My current stand on my 120 has one, but this one seems flimsy to begin with!

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The two below show what the final assembly would look like as is. I am just holding the bottom extension and there is no joining piece in place. At the current recommended width of the joining piece, I would have an a sump area that was not level unless I laid down a 3/4" piece pf plywood across the entire inside of the stand.

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Where the vertical piece would attach to the center brace...

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