1mbrews8 Tank Build thread - 180g with basement sump, frag, etc..

[1mbrews8]

Thanks for the reply!

Since i am using 2x6 for the top, the rocket build says i need supports. at least 1. if i was using 2x8, i would not need any.

i will be staining mine...

if i use 1 brace in the center, then i would go 4 or 2 doors. if i go 2 braces - like the trim braces on the tank) then i would go 3.
I think i figured if i wanted to go 4 doors, they could only be 15.5" each (stand is ~ 72", subtract ~ 5" each colum, = 62" to work with. 62 / 4 = 15.5" each). seems kinda small...
i could go with 2 sets of 2 doors. where they open away from each other which would give me an unubstructed "opening" of around 30" - 31" each set...
so at most:
4 doors = 15.5" each
3 doors = 20.5"
2 doors = 31" each
of course i still have to subtract the braces which would impact the "openings"...

bratliff;517737 wrote: You don't need a center brace for support, so, figure out how many doors you want and just put in supports for them to clos against. I'd go two doors and make the center "brace" removable for that time that inevitably will come when you wanna redo everything in there and need the access.

I've got a six foot tank and will be putting two doors on when I get around to skinning the tank. Nothing is under my stand except power cables and plumbing; everything else resides in the basement.

 

[1mbrews8]

do u have a build thread for the 180?

 

[rbredding]

if you want to shim it, see if you can use/rent/borrow a power planer (same basic process as using a hand plane, but will remove material quicker and more evenly - using a hand plane is actually a little more art than science)

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use it to plane the bottom of the supports and take off material to level the stand before you load it..

once you load it, uneven weight distribution can damage floors (you're wood flooring will DEFINITELY take a hit if you've got point loads under the stand.. might as well go through there and drop a sledge hammer in a couple places)

it might be better if (once you get it even with the floor and level) to actually put a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" plywood across the bottom to help evenly distribute the load...

then another piece (of course) on top of the bottom supports (but honestly, they're probably not needed)..


(sorry the picture of the planer is so big)

 

[1mbrews8]

can i use this with the apex sytem?

SnowManSnow;513882 wrote: In an earlier post you mentioned wanting a good ATO.

I've been running the Tunze Osmolator for a few years, and it hasn't failed to keep my water level perfect, not once.

Very good unit, and worth consideration IMO

B

 

[1mbrews8]

going with 1 center vertical front and back brace. prob 2 big doors.

so should i skin it with 1/4" oak ply and then build up the columns, moulding, etc from that

or

get the regular oak boards and do that?

 

[1mbrews8]

grrrrr. having second thoughts on building it my self.... before i cut this expensive oak, i am trying to square everything up and level it... but the home floor is not exactly level...grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
mike

 

[1mbrews8]

anyone with some good tools and talent wanna come down and help???
mike

 

[1mbrews8]

ok. rebuilding stand. 99% level and square. what a pain in the ^&%%$...

got to get another sheet of plywood for the top tomm because the 48" piece that i cut in half, thinking one half for top, one for bottom, needs to be the 24.5" due to the silly trim on the tank. oh well, ill use the old stuff for the frag tank..

other than that, ready to skin again!!

 

[1mbrews8]

any one want to chime in???

got more done but forgot pics.. should have them up on tue.

have everything skined nice and 99% perfect. i am working on the front "posts"- trying to figure out the "layers" and overhangs is a pain. does anyone have any tips?
can't wait for crown moulding...( ;o)

 

[1mbrews8]

boo on u guys for no comments!! )
last week i got done....:

stand skinned and with a bit of the sides:

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detail of the side:

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got more done today...
crown finished and tops of sides done:

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next up tomorrow is to caulk the inside, finish the top, paint inside, and start to sand and fill nail holes, etc..

 

[grouper therapy]

1mbrews8;526743 wrote: boo on u guys for no comments!! )
last week i got done....:

stand skinned and with a bit of the sides:

alt="" /></a>

detail of the side:

alt="" /></a>

got more done today...
crown finished and tops of sides done:

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next up tomorrow is to caulk the inside, finish the top, paint inside, and start to sand and fill nail holes, etc..

Very nice job!!!!
When you stain the out side test your stain on a piece of the crown mold since it is not the oak you used elsewhere. It appears to be a pine or spruce so it may want to take stain a little darker. If so get some sanding sealer and dilute it with thinner 50/50 and apply a coat before stain. That sometimes helps get the stain to match a little closer.

 

[1mbrews8]

cool, thanks for info! your stand and build influenced me greatly! i think it is pine... the crown, molding on the top and bottom of sides, and the baseboard (when i get it on) is the same... i will deff test to see what it'll do.

do you think i should wait to put on the baseboard til i get the stand where it will go, or go ahead and do it in the basement?
mike

 

[grouper therapy]

I would go ahead and apply it .If you decide to do another in the future give me a shout I can get you oak crown and base if you need it.

 

[1mbrews8]

will do, thanks!

 

[1mbrews8]

what does everyone think?:
use the regular mega overflow the way it is meant to be? or do a herbie style with both holes as overflows and two over the top returns?

from a rc thread: "I think what you want to do is use your 3/4 outlet well below the water line in your overflow box so it can run at a full siphon. You want to put a gate valve on this line so you can fine tune it later. Then use your 1" as an open overflow. Plumb it so the top of it is at the level of your overflow. You just want a few gallons per hour flowing here. The bulk of your flow will come from the full siphon. Do not put a gate valve on the 1" line. Plumb an independent return over the top of the tank. Then fine tune the level in your overflow box to minimize noise. You need to find the sweet spot between the water level being to low and hearing the water crash and the siphon sucking air. "


i have to get all plumbing for which ever one i do anyway...

 

[mustangcaleb]

looking good!!!!

 

[grouper therapy]

1mbrews8;529437 wrote: what does everyone think?:
use the regular mega overflow the way it is meant to be? or do a herbie style with both holes as overflows and two over the top returns?

from a rc thread: "I think what you want to do is use your 3/4 outlet well below the water line in your overflow box so it can run at a full siphon. You want to put a gate valve on this line so you can fine tune it later. Then use your 1" as an open overflow. Plumb it so the top of it is at the level of your overflow. You just want a few gallons per hour flowing here. The bulk of your flow will come from the full siphon. Do not put a gate valve on the 1" line. Plumb an independent return over the top of the tank. Then fine tune the level in your overflow box to minimize noise. You need to find the sweet spot between the water level being to low and hearing the water crash and the siphon sucking air. "


i have to get all plumbing for which ever one i do anyway...

that works well if properly done totally silent!

 

[1mbrews8]

where's the jar with the pickle? i think that was something from clowney on in living color... maybe?;O)

any cons to doing that? i have a wahoo gold pump that will be doing the return from the basement... thanks
mike

 

[grouper therapy]

1mbrews8;529651 wrote: where's the jar with the pickle? i think that was something from clowney on in living color... maybe?;O)

any cons to doing that? i have a wahoo gold pump that will be doing the return from the basement... thanks
mike

How much head loss do you have?

 

[1mbrews8]

cant remember what i figured. its about 16' to the top of the tank from the basement. i will be using the pump to do the return on the dt, frag tank, refuge... which will all be pretty much directly under the dt.

i also have a mag 18 that i might use for the frag tank if i need more flow. ill have 2 mp40ws and a couple koralia 4s in the dt as well...