80g Frag Tank Build

hzheng33 said:
did you get the algae free float plus? how do you like them? i'm thinking of getting one but i just bought the tunze float not too long ago.
Click to expand...
www.bulkreefsupply.com

Hammerhead Float Plus

For Glass or Acrylic Aquariums 1/2" to 5/8" thick The Hammerhead is Algae Free’s most popular magnetic cleaner. It works great on almost all glass and acrylic tanks up to 5/8" thick. Glass aquariums holding up to 110 to 200 gallons Acrylic aquariums 48" long and 30" high Large 4" x 2" cleaning...
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

This is the one we have for the display. We got the slightly weaker magnet for the frag tank since the glass is thinner. They are worth the $ in my opinion. I've replaced the felt/Velcro with the refresh kit which wasn't difficult when it eventually wore down.
 
We have the Tiger 🐅 version of this magnet for our acrylic tank. We use with the magic erase thin sheets and the strength of the magnet 🧲 really works well with this set up. And it does float when we mess up turning corners. 😜
 
hzheng33 said:
@bg2311 @sharis100 any issue with the scraper scratching the tank?
Click to expand...
I don't use the blades (comes with metal for glass and plastic for acrylic). I just use the Velcro scraper surface. As long as you don't kick up sand grains between the glass and the scraper (or snail shells) it doesn't seem to hurt the glass.
 
Last edited:
Recently setup the dual canister CO2 scrubber on a recirculating loop to extend the media life and give the PH a further boost. Running the frag tank opposite the display has helped reduced the day/night swing. It's a compromise. Previously we would hit 8.35+ during the day but the dip at night was more intense as both tanks went to sleep. In the interest of being able to leave the house for more than 2-3 days at a time I'm working on automating the few items that need tending to. Emptying the skimmer cup is one of them. Skimmate lockers are expensive so I decided to build one. The problem with the usual design is they normally have an exit point for air through a charcoal filter. As skimmate goes in, air needs to escape to release pressure. Can't have that if the CO2 scrubber is going to pull air in from the skimmer loop. I added a 2nd port to the top of the locker and it will be the air intake for the CO2 scrubber. The 1st one is from the drain hole on the skimmer cup. That forms the loop. These blue jugs hold roughly 7 gallons. I gave a little extra room at the top to keep the scrubber intake away from the liquid below it. The optical sensor hooks into the Apex and will shut off the skimmer when the jug is full and send me an alert. This will prevent liquid from being drawn into the CO2 scrubber and then into the skimmer (huge PH spike would be bad). Added hot glue around the optical sensor wire for an air tight seal to prevent fresh air from coming in around the cable. Unless something makes the skimmer go nuts it should be able to run for several weeks untouched now.

3/8" quick disconnects would be a nice addition later.

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Some additional wiring organization is in order soon. I want to at least get the 2 FMM modules mounted on the panel (likely need 1 additional hole drilled). The Ecotech controller would benefit from being mounted in here as well instead of hanging out on the lamp shelf. I have holes through the walls for the plumbing and wires behind either tank (they are back to back on opposite sides). Even with TC value set in the Apex the salinity reading is still rather volatile so it's taken with a grain of salt. ;)

I've tried to route the more sensitive probe wires separately around the corner but they are going to soon follow one of the existing paths through the wall to get this area at the end of the frag tank a little more tidy. Perhaps there's a shielding sleeve I can run each one through like a ferrite choke.
 
Added a tank length mirror behind the frag tank. Perfect fit for $7 at Target. Now our Tomini tang who has been bullying our starry night blenny when they try to graze has someone their own size to pick on.

PXL_20210902_030835640.jpg
 
bg2311 said:
Recently setup the dual canister CO2 scrubber on a recirculating loop to extend the media life and give the PH a further boost. Running the frag tank opposite the display has helped reduced the day/night swing. It's a compromise. Previously we would hit 8.35+ during the day but the dip at night was more intense as both tanks went to sleep. In the interest of being able to leave the house for more than 2-3 days at a time I'm working on automating the few items that need tending to. Emptying the skimmer cup is one of them. Skimmate lockers are expensive so I decided to build one. The problem with the usual design is they normally have an exit point for air through a charcoal filter. As skimmate goes in, air needs to escape to release pressure. Can't have that if the CO2 scrubber is going to pull air in from the skimmer loop. I added a 2nd port to the top of the locker and it will be the air intake for the CO2 scrubber. The 1st one is from the drain hole on the skimmer cup. That forms the loop. These blue jugs hold roughly 7 gallons. I gave a little extra room at the top to keep the scrubber intake away from the liquid below it. The optical sensor hooks into the Apex and will shut off the skimmer when the jug is full and send me an alert. This will prevent liquid from being drawn into the CO2 scrubber and then into the skimmer (huge PH spike would be bad). Added hot glue around the optical sensor wire for an air tight seal to prevent fresh air from coming in around the cable. Unless something makes the skimmer go nuts it should be able to run for several weeks untouched now.

3/8" quick disconnects would be a nice addition later.

View attachment 46889

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View attachment 46892
Click to expand...

Several weeks of untouched skim, that will be a smell where a gas mask is needed. Lol!


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Adam said:
I used to use pvc for the legs of the egg create racks held on with zip ties. It makes cleaning them a total PITA.

@Cook 3D printed me leg adapters that use driveway marker rod you can get at Home Depot. They disassemble easily and it's also much easier to change the height of the racks. Other benefits are you no longer have detritus traps in the pipes and the lower profile doesn't deflect flow under the racks. Check with Brian, I'm sure he'd be happy to print you some and the cost is reasonable.
I can post up some pics when I get home tonight if you're interested in seeing what they look like.

These are the rods I used because the cheaper ones weren't in stock. I'll be getting a bunch of the less expensive ones now that I see they are in stock.
www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 48 in. 2-Sided Driveway Marker Red 31454 - The Home Depot

The 48 in. Driveway Marker is ideal for safe navigation or identification of driveways, boundaries, parking lots, trails or special event locations. Its red reflector is highly visible on both sides. The durable pencil point shaft makes insertion into the ground easy.
www.homedepot.com

Cheaper
www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 48 in. Reflective Rod in Orange 31474 - The Home Depot

Colorful and eye-catching, this orange 48 in. Reflective Rod is durable and easy to install in the ground thanks to its pencil point. It's high visibility reflective tape can be seen from a distance at
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
Did you say you are running out of room for frags?? Hit me back bg, I can help you with that. Ready for more.
 
wantsummora acropora said:
Hey Brian, I want to get as close to your par as possible. Do you know the par in your frag tank by chance?
Click to expand...
I don't know the PAR but I can post it here when I get a meter eventually to measure it. The Orphek OR3 120cm lights above the tank should be on this build thread.
 
bg2311 said:
Recently setup the dual canister CO2 scrubber on a recirculating loop to extend the media life and give the PH a further boost. Running the frag tank opposite the display has helped reduced the day/night swing. It's a compromise. Previously we would hit 8.35+ during the day but the dip at night was more intense as both tanks went to sleep. In the interest of being able to leave the house for more than 2-3 days at a time I'm working on automating the few items that need tending to. Emptying the skimmer cup is one of them. Skimmate lockers are expensive so I decided to build one. The problem with the usual design is they normally have an exit point for air through a charcoal filter. As skimmate goes in, air needs to escape to release pressure. Can't have that if the CO2 scrubber is going to pull air in from the skimmer loop. I added a 2nd port to the top of the locker and it will be the air intake for the CO2 scrubber. The 1st one is from the drain hole on the skimmer cup. That forms the loop. These blue jugs hold roughly 7 gallons. I gave a little extra room at the top to keep the scrubber intake away from the liquid below it. The optical sensor hooks into the Apex and will shut off the skimmer when the jug is full and send me an alert. This will prevent liquid from being drawn into the CO2 scrubber and then into the skimmer (huge PH spike would be bad). Added hot glue around the optical sensor wire for an air tight seal to prevent fresh air from coming in around the cable. Unless something makes the skimmer go nuts it should be able to run for several weeks untouched now.

3/8" quick disconnects would be a nice addition later.

View attachment 46889

View attachment 46890

View attachment 46891

View attachment 46892
Click to expand...
Update: This has been running for about 3 months now and is around half way full. I have not had to empty it or touch the skimmer yet.

PXL_20211129_172804899.jpg
 
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