8ft 330G Construction Has Started (Pics)
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I think Bruce was probably concerned about the 4' span in the back. It will probably be ok since he had done it properly and place upright under the 2x4s so that the load transfers to the floor.
Edit: If some reason the tanks weight decided to load on the 2x4 between the uprights then there could be some undue stress on the tank seams since the 2x4 would not handle the load. That is why most suggest a 2x6 or 2x8 in case of uneven weight distribution
Edit: For our purposes on aquarium stands 4x4 versus 2x4 has no advantage due to most of the load being vertical shear. I build stands from 3/4" plywood that will handle the vertical load.
Edit: Good job with the header. Is that staircase fastened to the concrete wall?
Edit: If some reason the tanks weight decided to load on the 2x4 between the uprights then there could be some undue stress on the tank seams since the 2x4 would not handle the load. That is why most suggest a 2x6 or 2x8 in case of uneven weight distribution
Edit: For our purposes on aquarium stands 4x4 versus 2x4 has no advantage due to most of the load being vertical shear. I build stands from 3/4" plywood that will handle the vertical load.
Edit: Good job with the header. Is that staircase fastened to the concrete wall?
First off, I normally over do things. With that said look at your stand and then look up at the floor joist above you. I would only build a stand out of 2x6’s at the minimal the top would be 2x6’s. At the very least I would double band the top. Are you leaving this stand frame only or are you going to cover it with ¾” plywood. If you leave it open then add some braces side to side and front to back. The below pic was about midway thru and yes its 16” on center and is an over kill but the wood was free and it’s not going anywhere. After double banding I would add 2 more braces in the center of the 2 sides. Make sure not to put them where pipes will be coming down.
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The floor joist that span 10-20 feet without support is not the same as supporting an aquarium with four corners fully supported and most of the load on those four corners due to the ability of the aquarium walls to shift the weight to the corners.eagle9252;713816 wrote: First off, I normally over do things. With that said look at your stand and then look up at the floor joist above you. I would only build a stand out of 2x6’s at the minimal the top would be 2x6’s. At the very least I would double band the top. Are you leaving this stand frame only or are you going to cover it with ¾” plywood. If you leave it open then add some braces side to side and front to back. The below pic was about midway thru and yes its 16” on center and is an over kill but the wood was free and it’s not going anywhere. After double banding I would add 2 more braces in the center of the 2 sides. Make sure not to put them where pipes will be coming down.
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Edit: Look at your walls that hold up those floor joist, they are only 2x4 but they support your entire house. It is all about how the load is transferred to the ground.
Edit: If your tank has a rim around the bottom all of the load is there not across the entire bottom.
Edit: All that said your stand will definitely hold up a tank, a Sherman tank. Good job even if it is an overkill. Neat work.
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Did you find a contractor yet?
Like I said I normally go overboard. :shocked1:
The wife called it a redneck tank deck. And yes most do just the rim and it transfers the load out to the legs. That’s why I said I would at least double the 2x4’s up. And the main reason for the extra boards in the center is to keep the boards from spreading out overtime.
And yes, houses are held up by 2x4’s I took an 8 foot load bearing wall out to put the tank in but I added a double 2x12 with ½” plywood sandwiched in the middle but the trick is you still need a 2x4 every 16” so divide that by half and add on one side under the header and the other half on the other side. This is called jack studs. This allows the overall overhead weight to transfer down both sides into the floor. i did not need the mini header under the tank but this allows me to cantilever the weight out an over. but I still have 2 temp legs on the other side.
But keep pics coming of the build.
The wife called it a redneck tank deck. And yes most do just the rim and it transfers the load out to the legs. That’s why I said I would at least double the 2x4’s up. And the main reason for the extra boards in the center is to keep the boards from spreading out overtime.
And yes, houses are held up by 2x4’s I took an 8 foot load bearing wall out to put the tank in but I added a double 2x12 with ½” plywood sandwiched in the middle but the trick is you still need a 2x4 every 16” so divide that by half and add on one side under the header and the other half on the other side. This is called jack studs. This allows the overall overhead weight to transfer down both sides into the floor. i did not need the mini header under the tank but this allows me to cantilever the weight out an over. but I still have 2 temp legs on the other side.
But keep pics coming of the build.
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Have you checked the location of the bulkheads and if your frame will interfere ? Most of the inside overflows only allow clearance of about 3/4" between the bulkhead and the inside edge of the stand
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I know a couple of drywall contractors that are really good but not cheap.I suppose they are reasonable. I will get their numbers for you in the am .In my truck right now.
No need. I'm not a builder or structural engineer so my terminology may be off, but the vertical load capacity of these 2x4's is at least 600 PSI each. This stand is more than enough to hold a fully-weighed 330g tank. What is key, however, is that the weight bearing points/surface are all on plane, level and that the stand is square.
just FYI. The spruce 2x4's (whiter wood) are less structurally strong than a SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) 2x4. You should have no issue with vertical loading using either.
http://www.southernpine.com/index.asp">http://www.southernpine.com/index.asp</a>
[IMG]http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.html">http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.html</a>
there is WAY more information out there than we need to build a stand :)
What concerns me with this build is the wall in the center of the base. The floor joists underneath are expected to deflect more as you transverse farther from their bearing. The wall is not expected to deflect as it's carrying load from the roofline to the foundation. In short; You are building a teeter-totter. The outer edges will move up and down with people walking past, while the center will be fixed. The amount of movement is debatable, it may be within an acceptable limit depending on the distance from the bearing point of the floor joists.
I may be overthinking, I would consider leaving a gap between your wall header and the bottom of your framing for the tank bottom to allow deflection and settling. If you are looking to cantilever the right side in the photo, I'd rethink the whole build to consider how much deflection to expect from a 2x6 overhanging with the weight of tank and water.
http://www.southernpine.com/index.asp">http://www.southernpine.com/index.asp</a>
[IMG]http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.html">http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.html</a>
there is WAY more information out there than we need to build a stand :)
What concerns me with this build is the wall in the center of the base. The floor joists underneath are expected to deflect more as you transverse farther from their bearing. The wall is not expected to deflect as it's carrying load from the roofline to the foundation. In short; You are building a teeter-totter. The outer edges will move up and down with people walking past, while the center will be fixed. The amount of movement is debatable, it may be within an acceptable limit depending on the distance from the bearing point of the floor joists.
I may be overthinking, I would consider leaving a gap between your wall header and the bottom of your framing for the tank bottom to allow deflection and settling. If you are looking to cantilever the right side in the photo, I'd rethink the whole build to consider how much deflection to expect from a 2x6 overhanging with the weight of tank and water.
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:up:
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I was the field ops manager for the company that installed your staircase is the reason I asked earlier btw
grouper therapy;713961 wrote: I was the field ops manager for the company that installed your staircase is the reason I asked earlier btw
Wow, interesting! Were you involved in any other parts of this house?
Separate topic - I wonder if you built my 93G cube stand (it's high end, cost more than the tank and got it from one of our sponsors in Kennesaw).
We'll have to chat sometime.
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No just the stairs themselves not even the handrails. I may be available to help get your tank in the house if you need it . I have a 116 cube that Bruse is p/u as well from Armando
That would be great. Will have to find other recruits as well (Simon, Dave, Mike, John, others . . .
Edit:
wbrown;713959 wrote: oops, I apologize. I saw Eagle's pic and commented.
Yours looks great!
Edit: blame it on coffee deprivation.
Np - I do see your point on a potential teeter totter effect.
Edit: Anyone have skimmer ideas?
I'm seriously looking at that Vertex/Royal Exclusiv 300 for sale, but it is internal. Will fit, but I was wanting to run external.
