Acrylic Resealing?
- Thread starter combsatl
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It's completely cool - I was going to go to Home Depot and buy some acrylic - no worries.
I'll probably hold off until next weekend and give it a try. Everything I've read says to leave it sit for 24-48 hours after being welded so if making a 20" patch is the way to go it may be the weekend following or whenever you have time free.
I need to find a clamp that's big enough for this project.. needs to be able to clamp 2'. I'll check home depot when I'm there looking for acrylic.
I'll probably hold off until next weekend and give it a try. Everything I've read says to leave it sit for 24-48 hours after being welded so if making a 20" patch is the way to go it may be the weekend following or whenever you have time free.
I need to find a clamp that's big enough for this project.. needs to be able to clamp 2'. I'll check home depot when I'm there looking for acrylic.
Any chance I could bring it out next weekend and we take a stab at it from the start? I'd hate to screw something up because I used too much WeldOn or something. If so, I'll work on getting it cleaned up this week (water/vinegar as well as isopropyl alcohol).
Let me know and, again, a million times thanks!
Let me know and, again, a million times thanks!
I will have to check with the boss on what is going on next weekend but that should be fine. I most likely will forget because I am so old I can remember when the Dead Sea was just sick. 
So, hit me up mid week and I will know better what next weekend looks like.
So, hit me up mid week and I will know better what next weekend looks like.I just picked up a .25"x12"x24" sheet of acrylic from amazon so we'll have plenty if we need it. I also picked up an applicator bottle with small needle so we can get it in the cracks and make it work. I think we should start with WeldOn #4 which is liquid and should work well for what we're trying to do.. then, if it doesn't work, we can try patching it with the acrylic I bought.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">#4 is too watery; it’s for perfectly smooth joints or sandwiched pieces. The #16 is thicker and will fill the joints better. If you were to bond 2 pieces together and not get them smooth then you come behind that with the #16 to fill in the gap. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri">The #4 will act like water and spread all under the outer overlay piece. Make sure you have plenty the first time. You could then go around the outer edges the next day with the #16 to fuse the edges to the tank. Kinda like an outer seal on the overlaid pieces. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri">The #4 will act like water and spread all under the outer overlay piece. Make sure you have plenty the first time. You could then go around the outer edges the next day with the #16 to fuse the edges to the tank. Kinda like an outer seal on the overlaid pieces. </span></span>
Sorry,
that's bad advice right there.
#16 is thicker, but in no way works like a silicone bead.
It shrinks something like 93% and will leave bubbles and gaps if used as a filler...
(Talk of Marc Levenson in 2011 about sumps and acrylic builds)
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">Not bad advice it is spot on… the #4 is like water hence the need for the needle. The #16 is thicker it will still run some but thicker. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri">If it were me and I were to be gluing 2 flat pieces I would stack them. Squirt the #4 all over the 1st piece and then let it bond. Then do the 2nd piece while making sure you do the seam. Then after that sets up I would use the #16 and go around the outer sides one at a time while letting it set some so it won’t run. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">Remember it’s not going to be pretty and you can always put lipstick on a pig but… it will still be a pig.</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">I did my HOB overflow with #4 first and did not like the LQQKs of it so I went around the outside walls with the #16 to make sure it was completely sealed. </span></span>
<span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri">If it were me and I were to be gluing 2 flat pieces I would stack them. Squirt the #4 all over the 1st piece and then let it bond. Then do the 2nd piece while making sure you do the seam. Then after that sets up I would use the #16 and go around the outer sides one at a time while letting it set some so it won’t run. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">Remember it’s not going to be pretty and you can always put lipstick on a pig but… it will still be a pig.</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">I did my HOB overflow with #4 first and did not like the LQQKs of it so I went around the outside walls with the #16 to make sure it was completely sealed. </span></span>
I used 16 on my HOB Overflow and found it was pretty runny but workable. You can do a small seem with it but it isn't like a seam of silicone for sure. In my mind, if a seem has come apart it should still have a pretty smooth surface and the 16 should do a good job of welding it back together.
The only reason I thought 4 would be good is because it needs to run down into the spots on either side of the separation where the seam may be weak. From what everyone's saying, it seems like 16 will do that, too.. so I'll stick with that I suppose.
yes it will fill a crack. I think on tanked they used some #4 and saw shavings to make it thicker to fill a crack. #4 is much thinner and will seep or flow. that's why they use push pins while gluing the joints on tanks and such. I would suggest after you cut your pieces, take some scrap pieces and practice and learn how it will act.
McMaster-Carr has weld-on in ATL. same stuff only cheaper if it's anywhere near your roaming.
Got a tube shipped across the state for $12, think it was $4.50 or so picked up.
16 will also bond pvc to acrylic if you needed to make that area an overflow box for added peace of mind. (less pressure)
Got a tube shipped across the state for $12, think it was $4.50 or so picked up.
16 will also bond pvc to acrylic if you needed to make that area an overflow box for added peace of mind. (less pressure)
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Robb is actually right about this. I wouldn't call myself an expert, but in no ways am I a novice when dealing with weld-on and acrylic. The only way it will work as a "filler" is if you can apply pressure to the joints being bonded.
When the solvent in weld on evaporates, it produces a gas. If adequate pressure is not applyed, to keep gas pockets from forming then it will not seal! The pockets formed by the gas are weak, and easily break.
The pressure from the water in the tank, will stress these areas, and they will become weak.
Just do the patch.
