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d3r3k

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So my 210 finally finished cycling. I moved over all of my fish from my existing 30G and then two days later. . . BAM! Ich on my sharknose goby. So frustrating! I had not added a fish in over a month and after going through the trouble of catching everything out of my 30G, I now have to try and catch everything out of my 210 and then let it sit fallow for 10 weeks.

I'm going to turn my 30G into a quarantine/hospital tank and try and treat with hyposalinity.
 
I've had great results with fighting ick with a combo of different methods. Metro and focus with all their food for a while and a cleaner shrimp. My yellow tang had ick for almost 2 months and metro and focus wasn't doing the trick, I added a cleaner shrimp and a week later I never saw ick again. It's been about 3 months now since it's been gone. I have metro and focus if you need it. I also have two cleaner shrimps but it's highly unlikely I'll be able to catch one of them.
 
Hnguyen;902171 wrote: I've had great results with fighting ick with a combo of different methods. Metro and focus with all their food for a while and a cleaner shrimp. My yellow tang had ick for almost 2 months and metro and focus wasn't doing the trick, I added a cleaner shrimp and a week later I never saw ick again. It's been about 3 months now since it's been gone. I have metro and focus if you need it. I also have two cleaner shrimps but it's highly unlikely I'll be able to catch one of them.


I tried to tell him just bump temp couple degrees and soak some food in garlic and Metro, but he want listen. lol
 
leveldrummer;902163 wrote: Ich is present in most systems, and occurs when a fish is stressed and their immune system is weakened.

I don't believe people when they claim they can rid a system of ich.


I don't have ich....I had it once when I first set up my tank back in 2005, and I eliminated it ealry in 2006. Since then, I have not ever had any fish have any ick, whether a fish was healthy, weak, or about to die...and I have had a couple die of old age......I also know many reefers that have never had a recurrences of ICH year after after......

it's actually quite easy,

http://www.chucksaddiction.com/ich.html">http://www.chucksaddiction.com/ich.html</a>

[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48697&stc=1&d=1380854545" alt="" />

get rid of the parasite....you don't have ICH
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merkywater;902179 wrote: I tried to tell him just bump temp couple degrees and soak some food in garlic and Metro, but he want listen. lol

I appreciate the advice, but I read that raising the temp only has an effect on freshwater ich, not marine ich.
 
Barrettrhoades;902251 wrote: Don't take your fish out. Give it time, feed well, and get some cleaner shrimp. Moving them to another system and then putting them back will not solve anything. Ich is very common, and it is not like a bad fungus or bacteria where it NEEDS to be treated to save the fish. I have also had good luck with slightly raising the temp to around 80-81 as well


This is not solid advice. Cleaner shrimp do NOTHING to get rid of ich. They may remove dead skin and scales that result from an infection. They do not remove the parasite. Also, Cryptocaryon</em> has been shown to live through water temperatures as low as 50s F and as high as 90s F. Raising temperature in your tank will likely not harm the protist and may harm your other organsims.


Ich IS very common in tanks where people have not followed strict QT practice.

To the OP, please educate yourself on the life cycle of Cryptocaryon</em>. The link and photo that Mysterybox posted is a good start. There are few accepted (by experts scientifically, not causal hobbyists anecdotally) methods that will eliminate Cryptocaryon</em>. It can be done but not without effort.

Good luck with your outbreak.
 
stacy22;902311 wrote: This is not solid advice. Cleaner shrimp do NOTHING to get rid of ich. They may remove dead skin and scales that result from an infection. They do not remove the parasite. Also, Cryptocaryon</em> has been shown to live through water temperatures as low as 50s F and as high as 90s F. Raising temperature in your tank will likely not harm the protist and may harm your other organsims.


Ich IS very common in tanks where people have not followed strict QT practice.

To the OP, please educate yourself on the life cycle of Cryptocaryon</em>. The link and photo that Mysterybox posted is a good start. There are few accepted (by experts scientifically, not causal hobbyists anecdotally) methods that will eliminate Cryptocaryon</em>. It can be done but not without effort.

Good luck with your outbreak.


Thanks Stacy. I did my research and that's why I plan on going fallow in my display tank and treating all my fish with hyposalinity in a hospital tank. It will be a lot of work, but hopefully (now that I have a quarantine tank) I will have an ich free system and not have to deal with this ever again.
 
Excellent! It is easier long term to do things right to begin with rather than have to keep worrying when the next outbreak might happen.
 
I agree! Great job!

Who keeps spreading these myths about ICH, i.e., cleaner shrimp, etc?
 
Ralph and I are going to forget tang police and become ich police. :D
 
D3R3K;902209 wrote: I appreciate the advice, but I read that raising the temp only has an effect on freshwater ich, not marine ich.

I didn't say just raising temp would rid the tank I said that along with lowering temp, and soaking the food you feed your fish in metro and focus has worked for me in the past. That is little more than just raising temp. I have dealt with ich before in the past with this same method and have never had another issue with ich.
 
I didn't mean that was the "only" part of the treatment. I meant that I read temp only has an effect on freshwater ich, not marine ich.
 
D3R3K;902382 wrote: I didn't mean that was the "only" part of the treatment. I meant that I read temp only has an effect on freshwater ich, not marine ich.

Just clearing up the info for other members as this has been what has worked for me.
 
I have a purple tang and this fish gets ick ones a month and all I do is garlic and metro and it goes oway I noticed ever time I move fish to quarentine it gets worse so garlic and metro work's great and i have 7 more fish and he is the only one.
 
angel;902388 wrote: I have a purple tang and this fish gets ick ones a month and all I do is garlic and metro and it goes oway I noticed ever time I move fish to quarentine it gets worse so garlic and metro work's great and i have 7 more fish and he is the only one.

Might always have it, but in the gills. Probably only gets it bad when it's immune system is down or the fish gets stressed.
 
stacy22;902311 wrote: This is not solid advice. Cleaner shrimp do NOTHING to get rid of ich. They may remove dead skin and scales that result from an infection. They do not remove the parasite. Also, Cryptocaryon</em> has been shown to live through water temperatures as low as 50s F and as high as 90s F. Raising temperature in your tank will likely not harm the protist and may harm your other organsims.


Ich IS very common in tanks where people have not followed strict QT practice.

To the OP, please educate yourself on the life cycle of Cryptocaryon</em>. The link and photo that Mysterybox posted is a good start. There are few accepted (by experts scientifically</em>, <u>not causal hobbyists anecdotally</em></u>) methods that will eliminate Cryptocaryon</em>. It can be done but not without effort.

Good luck with your outbreak.


This is why I always tell people to reference against wetwebmedia or something similar. Just because it worked (or appeared to work) for one guy doesn't mean it is sound advice. And you're right, cleaner shrimp don't resolve ich.
 
Everyone has their own opinion and methods of treating ich. There's no single right or wrong answers. I've only lost fish to ich when I first started and that was due to lack of knowledge. Ever since then, garlic guard, metro and focus has been my choice of fighting ich. Let the fish fight it off on their own. As long as their still eating they will survive.



For the cleaner shrimp thing, I will say for myself that they DO help. As I stated before, I was fighting ich for over two months with my yellow tang while non of my other fish have it. I feed with metro and focus daily and that kept the fish eating and strong but the ich kept coming back. I finally picked up a cleaner shrimp and a week later the ich never returned. Its been three months now since the last time I've seen ich. The only thing I've change was adding that cleaner shrimp. Call me naive but I'm thinking its the cleaner shrimp that help rid my tang of ich. Some may think otherwise and that's your own opinion. This is mine and my most recent experience with it.


Sent from my Nokia Lumia 1020 using Tapatalk
 
As the old adage goes, correlation does not imply causation.

You saw what you saw. I certainly wasn't there. But, established marine science doesn't back that up. Cleaner shrimp do provide relief to a fish in the form of tissue cleansing, but they do not eat or other remove Ich.

See here:
a>
 
As I said before, everyone has their own opinion and their own ways of going about in this hobby. Just because "established marine science" doesn't back it up, doesn't mean it can't be true. Science doesn't back up my religion, so does that mean I should stop wasting my time and stop going to Sunday mass? I think not.

Did you perform these test and studies yourself or was it something you just read?

I'll leave this thread with this last post and a quote.

"I read it on the internet, you can't post anything on the internet that isn't true".
 
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