Design for 150G Acrylic
- Thread starter giulianom
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Got it.
Since I have an abundance of time on my hands, I decided to make a new Google Sketchup model of my MRC MR-2R skimmer, to more accurately reflect it's true dimensions - particularly the height and tube diameters.
Here's the first revision, of the skimmer box and riser tubes.
I used a Sketchup plug-in called RoundCorners to round off the box's corners and any other rounded edges that I could find.
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Here's the first revision, of the skimmer box and riser tubes.
I used a Sketchup plug-in called RoundCorners to round off the box's corners and any other rounded edges that I could find.
My Oceans Motions 4-way has arrived:
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The drum I got is the opposed style - ports 1 and 3, then 2 and 4.
It'll be attached to my Dart return pump, with the manifold and a gate valve in between. Note that this isn't a closed loop, it's part of the return.
Pump -> Manifold -> Gate Valve -> 4-Way -> Return plumbing.
It'll drive the 6 loc-line returns that I'm planning - two returns in the front upper corners of the tank, and then 4 returns through the back, coming from two return pipes, Teed inside the tank to provide a pair of rear returns, and a pair of pipes that go down and towards the front for lower returns.
Speaking about the risk of siphoning with submerged loc-line tubes, I was considering:
<ul>
<li>Drilling anti-siphon holes in the plumbing inside the tank, above the water line if possible.</li>
<li>Adding check valves to the return lines just before they enter the tank.</li>
</ul>
Thoughts?
The drum I got is the opposed style - ports 1 and 3, then 2 and 4.
It'll be attached to my Dart return pump, with the manifold and a gate valve in between. Note that this isn't a closed loop, it's part of the return.
Pump -> Manifold -> Gate Valve -> 4-Way -> Return plumbing.
It'll drive the 6 loc-line returns that I'm planning - two returns in the front upper corners of the tank, and then 4 returns through the back, coming from two return pipes, Teed inside the tank to provide a pair of rear returns, and a pair of pipes that go down and towards the front for lower returns.
Speaking about the risk of siphoning with submerged loc-line tubes, I was considering:
<ul>
<li>Drilling anti-siphon holes in the plumbing inside the tank, above the water line if possible.</li>
<li>Adding check valves to the return lines just before they enter the tank.</li>
</ul>
Thoughts?
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I use the really large ends on my lockline. They look like triangles, when it drains to a certain point the tip of the triangle flow spreader thing for lack of a better discription sucks air and stops the siphon. They are larger than the normal ones people put on the ends
Edit:
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Like this I keep the top just under the water, understand?
Edit:
Like this I keep the top just under the water, understand?
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man your really freaking good at that program, just what do you do for a living?
Seeing how the OM-4 would "fit".
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It looks like the 1" output ports may be a little close to the skimmer.
The Tee just below the OM-4 is supposed to be for the manifold - I may have to relocate the OM-4 to be on a manifold port...
It looks like the 1" output ports may be a little close to the skimmer.
The Tee just below the OM-4 is supposed to be for the manifold - I may have to relocate the OM-4 to be on a manifold port...
Since I'm using a different heatsink for my LEDs, I did what I always do - I modeled it. 
I didn't model the fan itself, but the fan shroud is there.
Closeup view
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LED Bar
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The LED's I'm going to use are the 50W LED array chips - I have an entirely seperate thread on that..
I originally got 20,000K LEDs, but I've since found 50W chips in 10,000K and 455nm (royal blue) color spectrums.
I'm thinking of one of two arrangements:
(Left to Right)
<ol>
<li>50W 455nm, 60 lens; 50W 10,000K 90 lens; 50W 455nm, 60 lens; 50W 10,000K 90 lens; 50W 455nm, 60 lens</li>
<li>50W 10,000K, 60 lens; 50W 455nm, 90 lens; 50W 10,000K, 60 lens; 50W 455nm, 90 lens; 50W 10,000K, 60 lens</li>
</ol>#1 would have more 455nm Royal blues, with 60 degree lens for depth penetration. 10,000K in between, with wider 90 degree lenses.
#2 would have more 10,000K, with 60 degree lenses for depth penetration. The 455nm Royal Blues would have 90 degree lenses.
Thoughts?
I didn't model the fan itself, but the fan shroud is there.
Closeup view
LED Bar
The LED's I'm going to use are the 50W LED array chips - I have an entirely seperate thread on that..
I originally got 20,000K LEDs, but I've since found 50W chips in 10,000K and 455nm (royal blue) color spectrums.
I'm thinking of one of two arrangements:
(Left to Right)
<ol>
<li>50W 455nm, 60 lens; 50W 10,000K 90 lens; 50W 455nm, 60 lens; 50W 10,000K 90 lens; 50W 455nm, 60 lens</li>
<li>50W 10,000K, 60 lens; 50W 455nm, 90 lens; 50W 10,000K, 60 lens; 50W 455nm, 90 lens; 50W 10,000K, 60 lens</li>
</ol>#1 would have more 455nm Royal blues, with 60 degree lens for depth penetration. 10,000K in between, with wider 90 degree lenses.
#2 would have more 10,000K, with 60 degree lenses for depth penetration. The 455nm Royal Blues would have 90 degree lenses.
Thoughts?
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I can't wait for this tank to be up and running, those are my thoughts!!
Heh, you and me both.
On Friday I ordered the LVL beams (laminated veneer lumber) that I need to sister to the existing joists in order to support the weight.
2x10" beams 12' long, about $40 each.
They'll be delivered next Friday, so I probably won't get them in place for another few weekends, at least.
I placed an order for some different LED chips from eBay/China:
<ul>
<li>3 x 50W 10,000K</li>
<li>3 x 50W 455nm Royal Blue</li>
</ul>Also ordered different lenses:
<ul>
<li>3 x 60 degree, 60mm diameter lenses. Wider than the smaller 45mm lenses.</li>
<li>3 x 90 degree, 62mm diameter lenses. Also wider than 45mm.</li>
</ul>
I also also have some 50W dimming AC/DC LED drivers on order - dimmable via 20K Potentiometer, or 0-10V.
I already have 2 x 50W 20,000K LEDs, which I may or may not use...
But for now I'm planning on going with 6 LEDs, 3 10,000K and 3 Royal Blue.
Estimating what the coverage would be with 60 and 90 lenses:
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The Royal Blues provide about 900 lumens of output, hence the 60 degree lenses to focus the light.
The 10,000K provide about 4000 lumens, so they should be able to cover a wider 90 degree range.
<ul>
<li>3 x 50W 10,000K</li>
<li>3 x 50W 455nm Royal Blue</li>
</ul>Also ordered different lenses:
<ul>
<li>3 x 60 degree, 60mm diameter lenses. Wider than the smaller 45mm lenses.</li>
<li>3 x 90 degree, 62mm diameter lenses. Also wider than 45mm.</li>
</ul>
I also also have some 50W dimming AC/DC LED drivers on order - dimmable via 20K Potentiometer, or 0-10V.
I already have 2 x 50W 20,000K LEDs, which I may or may not use...
But for now I'm planning on going with 6 LEDs, 3 10,000K and 3 Royal Blue.
Estimating what the coverage would be with 60 and 90 lenses:
The Royal Blues provide about 900 lumens of output, hence the 60 degree lenses to focus the light.
The 10,000K provide about 4000 lumens, so they should be able to cover a wider 90 degree range.
I picked up some Capita 6" furniture legs from Ikea today, which I'm going to use with a 12" square piece of wood to make a small stand to support the MRC MR2-R skimmer.
The recirc pump will go underneath the skimmer, and the inlet and outlet pipes will be flex-pvc.
I also got a special tool I can use to ream out and re-use the existing 1" Spears fittings that are on the skimmer, so I can re-plumb it.
The legs are shown, the wood shelf panel is not.
Also, on top of the main Dart pump is a 1.5" inlet, 1.5" outlet, and 8 x 3/4" distribution manifold that I picked up.
I'm not entirely sure that I'll use all 8, or specifically right at that location, but it's a start.
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The recirc pump will go underneath the skimmer, and the inlet and outlet pipes will be flex-pvc.
I also got a special tool I can use to ream out and re-use the existing 1" Spears fittings that are on the skimmer, so I can re-plumb it.
The legs are shown, the wood shelf panel is not.
Also, on top of the main Dart pump is a 1.5" inlet, 1.5" outlet, and 8 x 3/4" distribution manifold that I picked up.
I'm not entirely sure that I'll use all 8, or specifically right at that location, but it's a start.
I made the shelf 22" x 12", and put the skimmer on top.
There's about 3/4" of clearance on top of the skimmer - thankfully with
the giant 6" union in the middle, the skimmer chamber comes off easily.
The only thing I'm not entirely sure about yet is, whether to place the skimmer as shown - with the 1.5" outlet and gate valve facing the drains section of the sump.
Or to rotate the skimmer 90 degrees clockwise, with the 1.5" outlet facing the back - with an elbow feeding into the return pump inlet area of the sump. I'd have to access the gate valve from the rear, which might make the occasional adjustment a bit tricky.
>
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There's about 3/4" of clearance on top of the skimmer - thankfully with
the giant 6" union in the middle, the skimmer chamber comes off easily.
The only thing I'm not entirely sure about yet is, whether to place the skimmer as shown - with the 1.5" outlet and gate valve facing the drains section of the sump.
Or to rotate the skimmer 90 degrees clockwise, with the 1.5" outlet facing the back - with an elbow feeding into the return pump inlet area of the sump. I'd have to access the gate valve from the rear, which might make the occasional adjustment a bit tricky.
