Discussion: Efficiency

Alot of people are switching to the reeflo gold line too for replacement on larger pumps to save a few $$ in the long run
 
Smoothie;421013 wrote: Alot of people are switching to the reeflo gold line too for replacement on larger pumps to save a few $$ in the long run

I've been checking wattages on pumps for my new tank coming up. Seems like this is the hardest one to find a "better" or more efficient way. I was looking at dual maybe even triple pumps as I could go lower wattage per pump but the inital cost would be higher. A lot of factors weigh into the final decision but ultimatly the idea is to have the flow I need with the least continuous watts feasible and avoid excess heat.
 
TEMP CONTROL
Fans - Using fans is only practical on smaller systems in the long run. I could cool my system with fans but I evaporated 5 gallons of water a day. That water needs to get out of the air or you will have mold problems. Using the AC or a dehumidifier to remove that water costs money too.

Efficient chiller - I chose my chiller not by cost but by efficiency. The 1HP unit I selected is bigger than I need and costs more than other brands but it is almost 2-3X more efficient than other brands on the market.

Variable temperature - I use the seasonal variation feature on my Apex to raise the temps of my tank in the summer and lower it in the winter. Its more natural and it saves a little on heating and cooling.

Put that chiller outside - I run my chiller outdoors in the summer and bring it indoors in the winter. This way the heat from the chiller does not need to be removed from the house in the summer and the heat is used to heat the house in the winter. :)

WATER MOVEMENT

Return pump - Size your return pump to 4-5 times tank volume. Any more is a waste.

Flow - Tunze streams or Vortech instead of CLS. Much more efficient.
 
Fans- I am working on a system that will blow massive amounts of air into my sump and vent it outside of the house. This should give me some really good cooling for very little expense. Should being the operative word.

Chiller-I am installing the chiller outside this time. This will keep the heat the chiller produces outside. I'm hoping it will never turn on.

Actinics- I removed my vho's a while back. I've been using pc's for dusk to dawn (4x65 watts), but may change it to only 2x64 to shave off a little more power.

Closed loop- Since I've had to use so many tunzes, I'm going to be more efficient with a CL ran by a Reeflo Dart that'll only pull about 120 watts. I may look into shutting this down at night via the controller and have a tunze providing some flow at night.

Powersave: http://www.power-save.com/1200.html">http://www.power-save.com/1200.html</a>

I've been considering this product for years, but I've never pulled the trigger. It doesn't really make sense to me and haven't found anyone who can vouch for it either. I would love for this thing to work at a rate of even 10% as that alone will pay for itself in one year.
 
fans, no chiller (with 400 watt MH)

low wattage PH (Tunze controlled)

Now on the magnetic ballast, I didn't know that they would consume 50% more than an electronic one? that true? I might need to get a dual 400 watt galaxy (if they make that?) hummmm.............
 
Skriz;421120 wrote: Fans- I am working on a system that will blow massive amounts of air into my sump and vent it outside of the house. This should give me some really good cooling for very little expense. Should being the operative word.

Chiller-I am installing the chiller outside this time. This will keep the heat the chiller produces outside. I'm hoping it will never turn on.

Actinics- I removed my vho's a while back. I've been using pc's for dusk to dawn (4x65 watts), but may change it to only 2x64 to shave off a little more power.

Closed loop- Since I've had to use so many tunzes, I'm going to be more efficient with a CL ran by a Reeflo Dart that'll only pull about 120 watts. I may look into shutting this down at night via the controller and have a tunze providing some flow at night.

Powersave: http://www.power-save.com/1200.html">http://www.power-save.com/1200.html</a>

I've been considering this product for years, but I've never pulled the trigger. It doesn't really make sense to me and haven't found anyone who can vouch for it either. I would love for this thing to work at a rate of even 10% as that alone will pay for itself in one year.[/QUOTE]

While I'm not ready to "vouch" for this product, sight unseen, I can tell you that 'in principle' it could work. How do I know? The power companies fight this battle every day. There are engineers working constantly to 'balance the load and power factor'. Why is there a problem? There are several types of electrical devices:

1) purely resistive loads, like light bulbs.
2) capacitive loads, which act like shorts (like an empty battery)
3) inductive loads, which resist any change in current (motors)
These three are called 'linear' loads.

4) 'noisy' devices, like rectifiers and arc discharge devices (flourescent lights, arc welders, etc.)
These are non-linear devices.

If there were the same number of 2's and 3's, and also no 4's, there would be no problem. The fact is the numbers of the above types of devices varies from place to place and by time of day. The result is that the pretty 60 cycle per second sine wave power from the power plant gets trashed by these imbalances and looks nothing like a sine wave (real noisy and distorted). That makes it less efficient. Your device is a cost effective way to 'clean up' the sine wave and restore that efficiency (and the pure waveform). I'm willing to bet $300 that it works. I'm thinking of ordering one, but first I'm gonna check if there is another similar device (competition). Thanks! This one suggestion made my $30 investment in ARC worthwhile. I didn't know they had these for homeowners!
 
I did some checking, and the EPA/DoE say these Power Factor Correction devices don't work as claimed for homeowners. The EnergyStar site below explains why too. I wish it had:(

std_adp.php
 
grouper therapy;421208 wrote: geo thermal loop is still holding tank at 80-81

Do you have a loop system running your whole house? Is it a vertical well or horizontal? What are your thoughts, etc? I'm very interested in these. Thx Grouper!
 
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30598">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30598</a>
This is the thread if you want to catch up . so this thread can carry on
Just my tank. horizontal loop
 
I would like to see some more info on e-ballasts VS magnetic as well. I am about to add an aquamedic halide unit that has been handed down throughout this club.
 
actually the powersave 1200 did cut my fathers bill by 11%..So I would have to say that it DOSE work..
1.I removed my 400 watt mh and replaced it with 8t5s
2.I shut off the chiller and hooked up some canopy fans
3.I only run my lights for 5 and a half hours a day
4.I also reuse my ro waste water for watering in the yard.
Only problem that I have with the fans is the evap. I cant literally taste the ocean in the air upstairs in my house..I guess im going to run a dehumidifier.Anyways I was told before I even started this hobby if I didnt have money..then dont even try..
 
Even more sad- I added up what I could save from quitting smoking the other day. Yep around 125 a month. 1500 a year.
About to try this week. Wish me luck. (this is just the savings on cigarettes not including savings on health insurance, life insurance and overall medical bills that I will have in 20years)
 
christopherjay;421268 wrote: actually the powersave 1200 did cut my fathers bill by 11%..So I would have to say that it DOSE work..


The problem with this statement is that there are so many other factors involved in powering a home, it's hard to attribute to one thing. My power bills run over $300 in the summer, and right around $200 in the winter, but it still fluctuates $20-$30 a month depending on how much we run the a/c, do laundry, etc, etc. You need a way to run controlled tests, as I'm not taking the word of their advertisement for it.
 
oh yes that i do understand..Im just saying..it has SEEMED to work for us..Our powerbill is normally around 1,200 bucks a month in the summer time and around 1,000 in the winter..Take in mind our house is 3 stories with 6 bedrooms and 4 baths..with a full apartment down stairs..
 
I recently upgraded my main level A/C system to a larger high efficiency unit. It alone accomplished 2 things:

1. It actually cools the house now!
2. It hardly runs, saving me hundreds a month in electricity. I will know exactly how much it has saved me by the end of next summer.

Oh, & I'll also get the nice tax credit for the upgrade :)
 
I also changed a ton of the house light bulbs with cfl's. I know none of this makes the tank more efficient, but I fiigured pinching on one end affects the other, so it's good enough!
 
Skriz;421284 wrote: I also changed a ton of the house light bulbs with cfl's. I know none of this makes the tank more efficient, but I fiigured pinching on one end affects the other, so it's good enough!
I agree . Since I have not figured out how to save on the aquarium in other ways yet. I figured I could offset that with better efficiency elsewhere.
I have put some thought into how to incorporate water wheel power from my overflow to the basement and use it to possibly run a device or two in the sump. I figure since mean ole Mr. gravity is creating havoc on me I would try to use it to my advantage.lol
 
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