DIY power backup

Dmac

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Obviously everybody is talking about protecting their tanks after this last power outage. I am trying to find a simply setup for my tank outside of the generator I will be purchasing. I know this can be done with a couple of lead acid batteries and a power inverter but I am not sure about the simplest/best way to set it up. I just want to run my heater (300 watts) and a 1600gph return pump or possibly just a jebao 0w-40 powerhead. Thanks for any advice.
 
A generator is great if you are home to start it, or can afford a bigger automatic one with a transfer switch that will throw itself when you are not home.

We are using a combination of UPS and straight DC battery backups. Power heads (Ecotech) run off straight 12v when the main power cuts out. Basically built a copy of the Echotech battery backup. It's not too difficult and there are YouTube videos on how to make them. Once you have it built, the only limit is the size of the battery.

UPS are great for 120v AC devices you cannot power off of a battery directly. They are also inefficient because of the conversion that happens (DC battery in UPS to AC outlet on back, then you may even be going back to DC if the device you plug in needs a transformer vs. running off straight 120v AC). There's energy loss at each conversion so when you can power DC devices directly, they will run longer.

It's getting colder now, but larger tanks can go for longer without a heater (more volume, takes longer to cool off). A heater will chew through your battery backup and probably overload a normal UPS unit. If your return pump is DC and can fall back to a slower speed that would be optimal. When we upgrade ours it will probably be an Ecotech Vectra so we can also power it directly off the DC battery box we just built. At minimum you want to keep the water aerated, so a power head by the surface, or an air pump that kicks on when the main power is cut. They sell USB battery pack ones for ~$20-50.

Here's a link for the DIY DC battery backup solution:

 
I’ve gone with DC pumps & powerheads, except for the skimmers which don’t draw much AC current.

Skimmers may get a UPS, as will the Apex’.

I’m sourcing the parts to build automatic switchover backups for the 24 volt DC items.
 
So I found an inverter at harbor freight that has a built in transfer switch for$129/4000 watts. I think I'll grab a couple of sealed lead acid batteries as well. I'm not sure what kind of tester to use to monitor the discharge levels of the batteries though. Any ideas?
 
So I found an inverter at harbor freight that has a built in transfer switch for$129/4000 watts. I think I'll grab a couple of sealed lead acid batteries as well. I'm not sure what kind of tester to use to monitor the discharge levels of the batteries though. Any ideas?
got a link to the one you went with?
 
So I found an inverter at harbor freight that has a built in transfer switch for$129/4000 watts. I think I'll grab a couple of sealed lead acid batteries as well. I'm not sure what kind of tester to use to monitor the discharge levels of the batteries though. Any ideas?
I don't see one the has a transfer switch at HF either. Interested in a link.

To monitor discharge you could use a Kill-A-Watt to show the current wattage used and you'd also need a voltage meter to show you the battery's status.
 
You'll want to use deep cycle batteries. Normal batteries are not designed to be discharged fully.
 
I don't see one the has a transfer switch at HF either. Interested in a link.

To monitor discharge you could use a Kill-A-Watt to show the current wattage used and you'd also need a voltage meter to show you the battery's status.
I think Google lied to me. The inverter on harbor freight doesn't appear to have the transfer switch. But for the price, I'm fine with buying a separate one
 
I think Google lied to me. The inverter on harbor freight doesn't appear to have the transfer switch. But for the price, I'm fine with buying a separate one
The HF inverters are only "Up to 87% efficient" If you don't get to the Up To part you're likely to lose 15-20% of the capacity in the DC-->AC conversion. They also warn not to discharge below 50% of the battery to preserve battery life.

  • Not for marine use. Use only with 12v deep cycle lead-acid batteries rated for RV use. To preserve battery life do not discharge battery below 50% charged state. To maintain 50% charged state start the vehicle's engine every 30 to 60 minutes and let it run for at least 10 minutes to recharge battery.
For $129 the one you're looking at is 2000W. Their Jupiter 3000w is $300. Both are modified sine wave.
A good pure sine wave unit would be this one, but it's $459.00... You can run it down to 9.5v before it automatically shuts down.

The cost of a good inverter is why most don't opt to go that route and just look to run the bare minimum with direct DC powerheads and pumps. By the time you get a good inverter and batteries you're pretty much up to the cost of a generator. Jebao & Ecotech can be run on direct DC power for considerably less and will bridge the gap when your not home until the point when you can startup a generator.
 
And that's why I come to you guys, LOL. How would I hardwire the pumps without the inverter though?
 
And that's why I come to you guys, LOL. How would I hardwire the pumps without the inverter though?
The Ecotech pumps have a separate power jack that takes 12v DC. When the main 24v line in turns off, it falls back to the 12v source. Not sure on other brands.
 

I'm working on the powerheads. I'll let you know when I figure it out ;)
 
Not a complete answer yet but I'm researching. Once I get my systems up and running I will be digging into this deeper.

I will be setting up a battery system for two MP60's and two Vectra L2's by the end of the year. After that I'll be onto this.
 
Fwiw,
Cheap inverters can cause expensive elecrronics to operate erratically and/or fail.

You’ll want pure sine wave quality. These have built in filter circuits to prevent the above & yes, that costs more money! ;)
 
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