Dosing pump for kalk

So I have been completely unhappy with the growth rate of my coral for a while now. I've been dosing all for reef for about a year and I finally decided to pull the trigger on kalkwasser. Can anybody recommend a decent continuous duty dosing pump that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
sorry to get off track of your OP Dmac. If you are going to dose Kalk just make sure you test often, too much and you can nuke your tank. It will raise your pH quickly, so add slowly for sure. I would get some type of reactor to run it so it can mix up the powder before you dose it into your tank (this is not required at all but makes it easier IMO). Most dose it at night since your pH levels will be higher than during the day. Most of my friends that run a reactor use the icecap, but man is it LOUD so if it is in a room close to where people sleep maybe look at another option just ask @chuck he sent his back due to the volume of noise it puts out.

How are you keeping up on your cal and mag? Have you considered just running 2-part vs Kalk?
 
If going continuous duty then the Kamoer FX-STP Wifi is the one to use around $330. I'm not sure that's what I would do dosing Kalkwasser though as a programable pump that dosed several times a day should work well. If you have an APEX link it into that to stop dosing if your pH goes high. I use my Kamoer for a calcium reactor.
 
sorry to get off track of your OP Dmac. If you are going to dose Kalk just make sure you test often, too much and you can nuke your tank. It will raise your pH quickly, so add slowly for sure. I would get some type of reactor to run it so it can mix up the powder before you dose it into your tank (this is not required at all but makes it easier IMO). Most dose it at night since your pH levels will be higher than during the day. Most of my friends that run a reactor use the icecap, but man is it LOUD so if it is in a room close to where people sleep maybe look at another option just ask @chuck he sent his back due to the volume of noise it puts out.

How are you keeping up on your cal and mag? Have you considered just running 2-part vs Kalk?
Right now I'm dosing all for reef. Just not getting good consistent growth and I've always heard kalk was almost the magic elixir.
 
Right now I'm dosing all for reef. Just not getting good consistent growth and I've always heard kalk was almost the magic elixir.
I’ve never had luck with all for reef. I love their salt just not that. But others have. I’d switch to 2-part myself over Kalk. I haven’t ever been a fan of it bc of the pH goes up so fast.

but if you are already at 500 cal, 1470 mag and 8.3 alk. 2 part isn’t going to help bc they are already good.
 
For SPS, I like my par at 375-400. If your sps are at “Par ranges from 150-330” you won’t see huge growth.
 
That's the thing that sucks about this hobby. But it's also what makes it interesting. There are just so many ways to skin this cat!
The most important thing is stability and consistency.

I'm not going to recommended products or methods here, just advice on the numbers you've posted @Dmac. (Are you 100% confident in these test results?)
pH: 8.3 is good. (But I'd like to see the daily lows and highs.)
Alk: 10.1 is a bit high for my taste. I shoot for 8.5 and 9.0.
Cal: 500 is too high. <-- Period. I shoot for 425.
Mag: 1470 is on the upper end but not crazy high. I like 1400 +/- 50.
NO3: 10 is pretty good in my book. 5 ~ 10 for me.
PO4: 0.19 is getting up there. I like 0.03 ~ 0.10.
Temp???

What were the Alk & Cal at a month ago, have they been climbing for some time? If so your AFR dose has been too high. Try cutting it in half and test for a couple days and see if those numbers start dropping.
You didn't say which salt you are using, when your last water change was or how often you do them. If you're not big on changes, do you dose any trace?

In a nutshell I don't think I'd say, "Yes!" jump in and switch to Kalk, as much as I like it. I'd say get your numbers back in line and keep them stable for a couple months, then report back.

Sending off an ICP test once a quarter is also a good idea. It's another tool in the box to help you see where the things are you can't test for.

I hope you find my $0.02 helpful ;)
 
You said and I quote "The reason I asked about NO3 & PO4 is that corals can’t grow at ultra low levels." So, that is why I mentioned misinformation as that is simply not true (I based my answer solely on your reply to PO4/NO3). What you posted above is true on naturally obtained nutrition, I agree 100%. I do not agree with "The reason I asked about NO3 & PO4 is that corals can’t grow at ultra low levels." I get bright pink, bright red, bright blues, and so on, I do know some people have more pastel colors with ZEOvit, as this is the reason they will add other KZ products to their tanks. Nutrients is a broad word and covers a lot, but when most of us talk about that we think only of NO3 and PO4, as to my reply to your reply. ULN is most thought of as probiotic or bacteria-driven systems since we are reducing the level of P04 and NO3's. I know some people argue that isn't true, look at Shane, he likes to run dirty tanks, he only runs a skimmer and will not run anything else mechanical, he likes his tanks less clean, and who can argue with his success, he is one of the best acros guys I know. But if you go by what many think, in increased level SPS tend to show suppressed calcification and/or reduced growth with lower levels it will lower zooxanthellae thus allowing better pigmentation. But, I am not going to argue with some of the amazing tanks I have seen over the last 30 years that run higher levels of PO4 and NO3's, again Shane is an animal and his tanks around some of the best.

I run my PO4 and NO3 around .02-.03 and .02-.05. I run the basic 4 bak/food/start/lith only (mulm is feeding the coral), and I do not run carbon, b/c to do it properly you need to change it far too often as it absorbs everything quickly and then can't absorb any more and that can happen as soon as a day or 2, once it is "full" then its useless, I know I am losing some of the value from carbon i.e. cultivates bacteria. From time to time I will run Coral Snow or Coral Vitalizer but very little. By reefeing standards that is very low, as you mentioned above they can not grow in ultra low levels. There are major issues with those of us that run ULS with swings in alk, etc. it can cause STN pretty quickly, so you have to stay on top of your systems, ULN are not for the "lazy reefer". 7-8KH, 425-450ppm Cal, and 1250-1350 Mag have worked out the best for me in ULS systems.

There are many ways to run ZEOvit, lots of "extras" you can buy to help with colors. I do dose iodine from time to time also, as I find if vital for colors, but again I am still running ULN with very low NO3 and PO4. Many do add aminos and trace elements, I do this by more frequent water changes, so I guess I am "cheating" a little bit, as most ZEOvit users do NOT do a lot of water changes. It is near impossible to test for all trace elements unless you are sending off water samples often and that is a cost I do not like to pay for, and I don't even pay retail for them. I will do it every 6-8 months or if I see something with colors, etc. I will send one off. Aminos tend to darken acros, many think that is due to nitrogen limitations. Since there are well over 100 different types of zeolith's I have only used ZEOvit brand as it has been proven to work. The reason the whole ULS was founded was to mimic the low nutrient conditions found in the more shallow waters where Acros tend to have the best coloration, I heard this directly from Thomas many, many times.

So, I think we are both right in what we are saying, I was replying only to the statement of PO4 and NO3's. There are many ways to have a successful tank, ULN is only 1 of them, but there are a lot more!

Just a few photos from the corals/colors I grow with VERY low PO4 and NO3.
View attachment 67624View attachment 67625View attachment 67626View attachment 67627View attachment 67628View attachment 67629View attachment 67630View attachment 67631View attachment 67632

Happy reefing!
Nice coral pics!

Simply put,
-The OP originally stated that he had been dosing All for Reef for a year, with no coral growth.

-All for Reef is mostly calcium formate, which is a bacterial food source (formate) + Ca. So, it is a form of carbon dosing. Overdosing AFR can drive your inorganic nutrients TOO LOW.

-He did not state anything about Zeovit or any other forms of nutrient addition. So THAT was why I stated low NO3 & PO4 will cause corals not to grow.

-Anyone that has overdosed organic carbon can attest to that ^

-BTW, with Zeovit you are dosing both amino acids and organic carbon, along with some vitamins. the description of the Zeofood and Zeostart you use. Here-

  • ZEOfood Plus - This is a nutritional supplement for the corals. ZEOfood is primarily composed of amino acids and vitamins which enable corals to uptake necessary nutrients and leads to a natural brilliant coloration.

  • ZEOstart– This product promotes the reproduction of all nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium to help the system naturally remove phosphate and nitrate.
Apology’s to the OP. I am available via pm.
 
That's the thing that sucks about this hobby. But it's also what makes it interesting. There are just so many ways to skin this cat!
The most important thing is stability and consistency.

I'm not going to recommended products or methods here, just advice on the numbers you've posted @Dmac. (Are you 100% confident in these test results?)
pH: 8.3 is good. (But I'd like to see the daily lows and highs.)
Alk: 10.1 is a bit high for my taste. I shoot for 8.5 and 9.0.
Cal: 500 is too high. <-- Period. I shoot for 425.
Mag: 1470 is on the upper end but not crazy high. I like 1400 +/- 50.
NO3: 10 is pretty good in my book. 5 ~ 10 for me.
PO4: 0.19 is getting up there. I like 0.03 ~ 0.10.
Temp???

What were the Alk & Cal at a month ago, have they been climbing for some time? If so your AFR dose has been too high. Try cutting it in half and test for a couple days and see if those numbers start dropping.
You didn't say which salt you are using, when your last water change was or how often you do them. If you're not big on changes, do you dose any trace?

In a nutshell I don't think I'd say, "Yes!" jump in and switch to Kalk, as much as I like it. I'd say get your numbers back in line and keep them stable for a couple months, then report back.

Sending off an ICP test once a quarter is also a good idea. It's another tool in the box to help you see where the things are you can't test for.

I hope you find my $0.02 helpful ;)
Here are my numbers from just over a month ago. Phos . 15
Alk 8.7
Calc 500
Mag 1500
I cut my all for reef dosing until the numbers drop some
 
Here are my numbers from just over a month ago. Phos . 15
Alk 8.7
Calc 500
Mag 1500
I cut my all for reef dosing until the numbers drop some
Just check the Alk daily so it doesn't drop too fast or too much.
We should all have some 2-part on hand to make adjustments. If you don't get some soda ash tomorrow.
 
Btw, I haven't been dosing anything for trace elements because I thought all for reef had everything I needed
 
Maybe I missed it but did you state what corals you have that are not growing
 
Primarily lps but I also have a couple of sticks that haven't died but other than encrusting on the base a little bit, they haven't extended in probably 6 months or more
 
Btw, I haven't been dosing anything for trace elements because I thought all for reef had everything I needed
I haven't delved very deeply into the AFR product. For my systems the cost is just too high.

Primarily lps but I also have a couple of sticks that haven't died but other than encrusting on the base a little bit, they haven't extended in probably 6 months or more
I would send off an ICP at this point. Test everything you have kits for at the same time you take the sample. Maybe even take some water into a store and/or another experienced reefer's house and have them test the water. You want to be 100% that you are getting reliable and repeatable results from your testing. Write all of the numbers down and compare them against the ICP results.

I like the ATI ICP test because it is the most comprehensive and does your RO water too.

You may also want to look at Aquabiomics at some point. If things aren't improving by the beginning of February getting their Microbiome & tankDNA tests done can uncover things that you'd never know about. It can also rule them out if they don't find anything.
 
I haven't delved very deeply into the AFR product. For my systems the cost is just too high.


I would send off an ICP at this point. Test everything you have kits for at the same time you take the sample. Maybe even take some water into a store and/or another experienced reefer's house and have them test the water. You want to be 100% that you are getting reliable and repeatable results from your testing. Write all of the numbers down and compare them against the ICP results.

I like the ATI ICP test because it is the most comprehensive and does your RO water too.

You may also want to look at Aquabiomics at some point. If things aren't improving by the beginning of February getting their Microbiome & tankDNA tests done can uncover things that you'd never know about. It can also rule them out if they don't find anything.
I did get my water tested at the local lfs Sunday. Came back with the same readings. Only thing they got different was that my salinity was 1.028. I retested with my vegee and it read 1.024. double checked with my precision hydrometer and got 1.025 and some change.
 
I did get my water tested at the local lfs Sunday. Came back with the same readings. Only thing they got different was that my salinity was 1.028. I retested with my vegee and it read 1.024. double checked with my precision hydrometer and got 1.025 and some change.
That's real good. Simple testing errors are one of the biggest problems we face. Well, besides the differing views & methods from one reefer to the next and the differing advice that follows. It's it's something I've been slow to learn, getting so many different forms of advice myself, along with me being one of many doing the advising, like in this thread. So I try and take a different approach now.

Kalk is cheap and I love it because I have always struggled with lower pH. If your pH topped out at 8.0 and fell down to 7.85 at night I'd probably say make the switch. But you'd also need to buy a good stirrer or Nielson reactor, a dosing pump and trace products. You're not struggling to hit any numbers at this point and are in fact a little high. So you know what you're doing works, you just need to get better at dialing it in. Speaking of that, how are you dosing the AFR now?
 
That's real good. Simple testing errors are one of the biggest problems we face. Well, besides the differing views & methods from one reefer to the next and the differing advice that follows. It's it's something I've been slow to learn, getting so many different forms of advice myself, along with me being one of many doing the advising, like in this thread. So I try and take a different approach now.

Kalk is cheap and I love it because I have always struggled with lower pH. If your pH topped out at 8.0 and fell down to 7.85 at night I'd probably say make the switch. But you'd also need to buy a good stirrer or Nielson reactor, a dosing pump and trace products. You're not struggling to hit any numbers at this point and are in fact a little high. So you know what you're doing works, you just need to get better at dialing it in. Speaking of that, how are you dosing the AFR now?
I'm dosing afr with a kamoer dosing pump.
 
I'm gonna plead the fifth, lol. But I will calibrate it tonight for sure
Again, make sure you have soda ash solution made up to make adjustment while the Cal drops. It'll take a lot more than 1.5dkh to drop the cal 75ppm. That's also why I suggest cutting the AFR dose in have and bring things down slowly making Alk adjustments along the way.
 
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