Even possible? I say bad test kit.

[cr500_af]

Picked up a Salifert phosphate kit today. My tank tests 0.0ppm.
I don't believe that can be right, so I tested my tap (well) water, which also shows 0.0ppm. Unlike other kits I've owned, this one has no kind of reference solution.

Bad kit? Any other surefire "gotta have plenty of phosphates" stuff to test as a check?

 

[drnecropolis]

Dunno.. I am watching The Predator though!!

 

[sailfish]

They suck at phos tests, you need a merk or one of the other better brand kits.

If you want bring some water to the next meeting and I can test it for you. You and a few friends can split one kit and save some money.

http://www.marinedepot.com/D_D_Merck_Phosphate_Test_Kit_Phosphate_Test_Kits_for_Saltwater_Aquariums-ROWA_USA-RW3111-FITKPT-vi.html">http://www.marinedepot.com/D_D_Merck_Phosphate_Test_Kit_Phosphate_Test_Kits_for_Saltwater_Aquariums-ROWA_USA-RW3111-FITKPT-vi.html</a>

Joe

 

[cr500_af]

Joe, I may take you up on that. If I can work it out to go, that is.
I had the Salifert and Elos recommended to me because the Seachem kits suck... it seems that nobody can agree on which one is OK. Since I got what I took as a pretty equal recommendation, I went with the Salifert to save the wallet a little. I guess that was a bad move...
I'd at least expect it to read something when I KNOW I am not phosphate-free. Pretty ticked about it. Not the LFS's fault, just a crappy kit apparently.

 

[drnecropolis]

I think you should drink the reagent! It will turn you into a sexual tyrannosaurus just like me!

 

[sailfish]

Well don't take it as a bad thing a least it did not show any.

It's just with phosphates there are very few test that can pick up the very small amounts. It could be worse you could have gotten a reading. LOL

I have a Hanna photometer I bought it a long time ago when I was trying to track down a problem. I usually suggest to people to buy a nice test kit like merk (or what ever is the current best is I don't know ask Ralph) LOL unless they know they have a phos problem and will be testing alot. IME you tank reaches an equilibrium and does not change much so as long as that is not over .05 your good. I really only use mine to test other peoples tank now days. LOL

Joe

 

[cr500_af]

Ansley wins the "helpfulness" medal. I already drank too much reagent apparently.

The thing is, I've been fighting dino... and have just a touch of green bubble algae that pops up from time to time. I had the dino pretty much beat, but had stepped up my feeding schedule (lightly, every other day from every three days) and it is starting to appear on my frag rack again. I don't think there's any way I'm at zero. Is it possible (technically) that I could truly be that low and still have these issues? I was of the understanding that if you have nutrients, you have phosphates, period.

 

[tgray3]

Barry, I've got some reference solution from a seachem kit. If you want to test your kit with it come and get it. It may be good for nothing more than gee whiz info for you but it may also tell you if have a bad kit.

 

[cr500_af]

tgray3;389418 wrote: Barry, I've got some reference solution from a seachem kit. If you want to test your kit with it come and get it. It may be good for nothing more than gee whiz info for you but it may also tell you if have a bad kit.

Tom, just PM me an address and I'll drop by after work whenever works for you. I very much appreciate it!

 

[drnecropolis]

I say go for it.. Can't hurt to test some ref anymore than being skinned by the predator..

 

[tgray3]

See you tomorrow Barry.

 

[sailfish]

I have never had to mess with dino so no experience there. IMO there are two issues with Phosphate one if it is it being too high for certain corals like sps and the other is algae issues.

For sps ideally.04-.03 or less although I have seen beautiful sps in a tank with .05.

For algae issues the theory is that no matter what your tests reads the algae has already gotten what it need to grow so the number is really wrong anyhow. For me it is more important to see what your dealing with by testing the tank, and RODI water. If the tank already has high phos say.15 or higher then you have a serious problem that will not be fixed by just reducing you feeding. If you can not trace the phosphates to you RODI or new saltwater then it's already in your tank IMO. It most likely is bound up in your rock or sand and the foods you feed. My experience has show most is bound in the rock. The only thing I can see to fix it is phosphate removers or getting new rock.

If you have fairly low levels say .02 to .05 then just reducing feeding may help. This is just my experience I am definitely not an expert on the issue so consult a professional. LOL

I plan on doing an experiment some time this week to see just how much phosphate is in frozen food and the pellets I feed.

DINO link
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php</a>
Joe

 

[percula]

sailfish;389439 wrote: This is just my experience I am definitely not an expert on the issue so consult a professional. LOL

Joe

With as many tests and experiments as Joe has done on PO4... I say he's pretty much an expert.

ELOS is as close as you are going to get without spending $120 on a test kit, otherwise, a meter is the next best choice.