I subscribe to this very position and run a UV during the day and off at night to prevent killing Copepods.
No, I'm not sure your total system volume exactly but I think an Emperor or Aqua 40w ran at 150-200gph should work fine for you.
Flow meters
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I subscribe to this very position and run a UV during the day and off at night to prevent killing Copepods.
No, I'm not sure your total system volume exactly but I think an Emperor or Aqua 40w ran at 150-200gph should work fine for you.
I guess that can work. I still have plenty of juice on my return pump to spare 200 gph but I already bought the 15 watt unit. I think I'll stick with it for a while to see how well it does for my system. It's a 90 gallon display with about 80 extra gallons when you add up the (2) 40 breeders and 20 gallon all tied into the display. So I want to say it's about 160 gallons with the rocks since I really don't have much.
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I have no experience with using a UV sterilizer. I may be wrong; I believe I have read here on ARC a thread that a UV with a wiper is o.k. for freshwater; but don't use a UV with a wiper on a salt water tank [something to do with the extra chemistry of saltwater and buildup of certain stuff collecting on the wiper part of the UV].
Wannabee
The only thing I can think of that will build up on the wiper parts are whatever the uv kills and never got pushed out. If that's the case then your skimmer will still be able to pull that gunk out without problems. That's just an assumtion.
Wipers are a gimmick meant to boost sales and nothing more even in freshwater applications. I believe the wipers were introduced and adopted from the wastewater industry were they experience large amounts of light sediment buildup on the quartz sleeve. The wiper is a oring or equivalent that as said wipes down the sleeve to clear it from buildup. These quartz sleeves are easily scratched and could even break if the buildup was considerable. In the wastewater industry the need for UV is far below what marine or fresh use it for. Scratches mean nothing for their needs, little for freshwater but paramount for marine. Plus, marine applications will provide the worst situation for wipers due to salt and calcium buildup.
Bottomline, don't get the wiper units. If you have one with a wiper, don't use the wiper part of it and your fine.
Bottomline, don't get the wiper units. If you have one with a wiper, don't use the wiper part of it and your fine.
I guess I can always pull the sleeve out and clean iy every few week. That means i may have to flip my UV around then since I mounted it with the wiper handle on top. I'm going to get a ton of water on the floor if I remove the sleeve in its current position.
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Emperor does not recommend wipers for salt water applications. The reason is that the main buildup on the UV quartz sleeve is calcium carbonate scale, not soft organics, and you could not just wipe it off if you tried. It has to be dissolved using an acid.
I descale my 150 watt with muriatic acid every 6 months or so.
I descale my 150 watt with muriatic acid every 6 months or so.
I have a ball valve before the UV and a gate valve after the UV. Ball valve is to cut off water from flowing back down on me if I need to take the pump out and the gate valve for fine tuning. The problem lays within the UV housing itself. It holds a bit of water in the housing and with the way I have it mounted, the sleeve is on the bottom side (uv mounted vertical) so when I remove the sleeve cap, whatever water is left in the UV housing will spill out from there. All I have to do is just flip it around, it shouldn't affect my plumping at all since the intake and output will still be at the same location. I guess I can also pull out the wiper while I'm at it and just plug the hole at the wiper handle. Looks to be just a 1/2" threaded hole in the PVC cap.
Hoang,
What I took from Mojos UV primer thread was that you should aim for an hourly pass of your net tank volume through the UV at the recommended exposure level to kill protozoas (marine ich, etc).
Now you can do that with an oversized pump with ball valve bypasses, etc, or you could also just buy a pump that does that type of hourly flow. I wanted to get about 450-550 gallons an hour through my 150 watt UV, so I just bought a Mag 7 and run it from the water in side of my sump to the water out side of my sump, easy. See pic.
This gives the proper flow rate and I did not want to mess with hooking it into my return plumbing line. Pump just runs full open. Easy to get to for maintenance as well.
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What I took from Mojos UV primer thread was that you should aim for an hourly pass of your net tank volume through the UV at the recommended exposure level to kill protozoas (marine ich, etc).
Now you can do that with an oversized pump with ball valve bypasses, etc, or you could also just buy a pump that does that type of hourly flow. I wanted to get about 450-550 gallons an hour through my 150 watt UV, so I just bought a Mag 7 and run it from the water in side of my sump to the water out side of my sump, easy. See pic.
This gives the proper flow rate and I did not want to mess with hooking it into my return plumbing line. Pump just runs full open. Easy to get to for maintenance as well.
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