Full Spectrum Arduino LED Build

jbadd99

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Didn't want to completely hijack a fellow user's thread, some I'm moving to my own for running progress, comments, and constructive criticism.

First off, I've been running two 120w Pacific Sun Black Pythons for three years now. They're great, except because I was such an early adopter, I don't get a full spectrum, only whites and blues. They're controlled through an onboard controller, which connects to my PC software via bluetooth. I suspect it uses PWM for dimming through a rather large slim driver that I've not been able to find elsewhere for a "copy" build.

I started reading about the Arduino reef project a few years back and it got me interested. It seems with enough tinkering it is just as, or more, configurable as a quality controller. It also gives me something to tinker with other than video games, which keeps the wife happy.

I started off by reading http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?p=849013#post849013">GiulianoM's thread</a> which got me thinking about it again. After selling my Rasta colony last week, I've got some discretionary tank funds and I decided to start gathering parts for my project.

I've also been reading up on another thread [IMG]http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2222702">HERE</a>, which has been VERY informative.

First up:

I already had an Arguino Mega 2560 board for another project that I've not yet started (a christmas light show), so I plan to use that for now, although I'm debating about using the same one as Giuliano, which has onboard ethernet pins. If I don't, I'll likely either buy a WiFi board or an ethernet board for the Mega I already have.

I bought 7x LDD-600H drivers and 2x LDD-500H drivers to drive the LEDs from a single power source, which I have yet to determine (It will depend on my final LED layout). These will be mounted on a PCB from the RC thread:
[IMG]http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/kovawa/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zps666a881e.png alt="" />

Each PCB also requires screw terminals to be mounted to them. An ebay search for 2 screw terminal 3.5mm returned quite a few results for pretty cheap. 10 terminals are needed for each board.

I also decided that rather than soldering the drivers directly to the board, I'd use a socket for easy installation and easy upgrades or replacements if a driver fails. For you soldering gurus out there - I'm mediocre when it comes to soldering. I've considered using solder paste and a heat gun to solder the terminals, etc. Anyone have any experience doing this?

110-44-624-41-001000_sml.jpg
alt="" />

Total cost for the drivers and the sockets, shipped $80.05
Cost for the PCBs, $33.88 (I'll have extras if anyone is interested)
Cost for the screw terminals $7.98

I decided to go with the same 7" LCD as Giuliano:
7" LCD Touchscreen $66.98
Arduino LCD Shield Module $12.98

The Arduino I already had is Mega2560 R3 $21.98

Cost to Date: $223.85

I'll update later when I've finished adjusting my LED pattern, but I'm looking at going with the 3UP CREE XT-E from LEDGroupBuy
web_3up_xte_02__78877.1363577130.80.60.jpg
alt="" />
and the OCW
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2200/b4d7d/products/192/images/669/OCW__89356.1349761874.80.60.gif" alt="" />
with some hyper violets for color
[IMG]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2200/b4d7d/products/122/images/667/Exotic_405_1__80378.1349749202.80.60.gif" alt="" />

I'd like a heat sink with a little more spread (width) than what LEDGroupBuy offers, but I'm not sure where to find such a thing where I don't have to take a second mortgage.

Thoughts? Ideas?

Edit: Just went surfing on HeatSinkUSA's website... looky, looky... :D. Note the grooves for easy, screw mounting of LED chips.

Ideally, I'd like something closer to 10 inches wide, but I might just spring for two 20" long pieces, which would come out to $155 with shipping... much cheaper than the LEDGB option, but then I'd have to come up with a housing for the light, which I don't even know where to start with that.

[IMG]http://www.heatsinkusa.com/product_images/uploaded_images/8.460-track2.jpg alt="" />
 
chrishet;849055 wrote: Nice...will be following along...I finally got my Auduino parts in and will working on assembling the fix this week.

Funny, I was just about to say I've been following http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79131">your thread</a> to assist in some ideas as well. I forgot to mention it earlier this morning.

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the HeatSinkUSA LED friendly sinks. I picked up two 20" sinks, shipped for [B]$140.08[/B]

That gives me roughly eight inches of room in the center of the heatsinks to mount the drivers and other things I'll need to power my project.

Now I just need to start looking for a quality enclosure, or find someone that makes them.

Anyone have any ideas? Ideally I'm looking for a box style enclosure, metal or heavy duty plastic, thats around 48" long, with two openings in the bottom, but one long one would suffice. It will likely need fan vents in the top and sides. I have no idea where to start on this and I'd love to draw something up, but I suck at using Sketchup.

[B]CTD - $363.93[/B]
 
As for an enclosure an old t5 or pc fixture might be a good start depending on how wide it needs to be.

Edit: I'm sure someone has a crap fixture laying around they might even donate to you.
 
A few points on the 2560 Mega vs the Due:

<ul>
<li>The Mega 2560 has a much slower processor than the one on the Due, so doing the video operations on the 7" LCD will be much slower. You can see the speed comparison here with a 5" panel - the Due is on top: <div class="gc_ifarem_title">5" TFT LCD Module 800x480 with Font IC Demo for Arduino DUE and Mega 2560 - YouTube</div></li>
<li>The processor on the Due is a different type than the one on the Mega 2560, so a lot of the code packages - like the Jarduino package - probably won't work 100% right out of the box. There's still a lot of extra code and libraries that haven't been ported to work on the Due yet.</li>
<li>I expect that I'll have to start from scratch with a lot of the code on my Due board, though I'll probably end up grabbing bits of code from other projects and integrate them piece by piece..</li>
</ul>

On the soldering:

The DIP sockets are a good idea, though you'll have to break off or remove most of the pins - easily enough done. I plan to do the same on my boards.

You can try soldering paste and a heat gun, however most of that stuff is meant for SMD (surface mount devices) soldering where trying to use a soldering iron with a tiny tip is impractical.


You'd probably be better off with a soldering iron pencil in the 30-60 Watt range and some electronics solder with flux inside.

The pins on the board are far enough apart that it shouldn't be a problem.


Secure the sockets and connectors to the board with either some tape or a dot of super glue, and then flip it over to solder the back side.

Let the soldering iron heat up, apply some solder to the tip to "tin" it, and then wipe it clean on a wet paper towel.

Press the tip of the soldering iron against the base of the pin so that the tip touches the pin and the solder pad, wait a few seconds (at most 3-5) and then apply solder to the pin and solder pad - just enough so that it flows around the base and pin. Remove the soldering iron.

Once you're done, clip off the excess leads with side cutters.
 
GiulianoM;849152 wrote: A few points on the 2560 Mega vs the Due:

<ul>
<li>The Mega 2560 has a much slower processor than the one on the Due, so doing the video operations on the 7" LCD will be much slower.
</li>
</ul>Ewww.... looks like an upgrade coming.

The processor on the Due is a different type than the one on the Mega 2560, so a lot of the code packages - like the Jarduino package - probably won't work 100% right out of the box. There's still a lot of extra code and libraries that haven't been ported to work on the Due yet.

I expect that I'll have to start from scratch with a lot of the code on my Due board, though I'll probably end up grabbing bits of code from other projects and integrate them piece by piece..

Lets put our heads together and work it out. When I get my arduino setup built I going to spring for the donation to get the new version of Jarduino. I'll keep you updated on that.


You can try soldering paste and a heat gun, however most of that stuff is meant for SMD (surface mount devices) soldering where trying to use a soldering iron with a tiny tip is impractical.

You'd probably be better off with a soldering iron pencil in the 30-60 Watt range and some electronics solder with flux inside.

It was just a thought to make things easier. I soldered for years when I worked at a video arcade. It just wasn't alway very pretty.... I do like the idea of super glue to hold in place though. Will make for a clean install.

Heat sinks are already shipping - 4 hours after I ordered them! Unfortunately, I don't think the rest of my parts will get here nearly as quick.

Still searching for ideas on an enclosure. Anyone have any? Other than the T5 housing idea?
 
I did a build a while back and the inclosure was the thing I got hung up on ... good luck man :)
 
SnowManSnow;849167 wrote: I did a build a while back and the inclosure was the thing I got hung up on ... good luck man :)

Boooo!! :lol2:

In other news:

Looking at

16x 3UP (2 Royal Blue / 1 Neutral White) Chips
8x OCW (Red/Green/Blue) Chips
8x Cool Blue Chips
8x Hyper Violet Chips

with

4x Neutral White Chips
4x Royal Blue Chips
to be used for moon lights


Which will be divided into four "zones" on the heatsink.

I really wish I had some good way to sketch it out that was easy to use so I could get thoughts on the setup.
 
One could probably bend a box out of sheet metal like this:

<div class="gc_ifarem_title">Sheet Metal Box & Pan Brake Tutorial - Grizzly Brake in my home shop - YouTube</div>


But you would need a box and pan brake to bend it...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/24-Box-and-Pan-Brake/G0557">http://www.grizzly.com/products/24-Box-and-Pan-Brake/G0557</a>


But that's a $300-400 tool... one that I don't have yet. :)
 
Actually, I have that HF bending brake... it's not much good for anything but single bends - a box brake has adjustable fingers so you can form the box.
 
How about a black acyrlic box? A couple of cuts on the table saw, some glue, and you are done.
 
Funny I started doing one of these about 3 months ago ordered all the parts and then I found put about a reprap and have all but forgot about building my reef controller lol

sent from old rotary phone
 
SuperClown;849296 wrote: Funny I started doing one of these about 3 months ago ordered all the parts and then I found put about a reprap and have all but forgot about building my reef controller lol

sent from old rotary phone

Time to get it back out and start working again :)
 
I know I need too but betweeen work, printing parts, working on a engine, remodels its kind of on the back burner atm excited to see what u come up with though

sent from old rotary phone
 
After more hours than I care to remember scouring to the ends of the Internet I managed to determine the outer portion of the light fixture is referred to as "the troffer", although I have yet to find one I like that I think would suit my needs.

Price point for most seem to be $50-$125 depending on what you're looking at.
 
Well i know you already bought some heatsinks, but those makersled heatsinks are made so you use the heatsink itself as the housing, but they are kind of pricey.
 
tbryan;849915 wrote: Well i know you already bought some heatsinks, but those makersled heatsinks are made so you use the heatsink itself as the housing, but they are kind of pricey.

Yeah. 36" makersLED would have cost me $199. I picked up, two similarly notched 20" heatsinks (40" total) for $140. I ordered three days ago - they'll be here today.
 
Look what Mr. UPS man left at my door step...

7E91FE01-2A73-4611-AA21-A5823AD45D82-137-00000008636A377D_zps859b5723.jpg
alt="" />
A7FF55B1-E6AE-49B3-AF45-D127A943489E-137-00000008498CCB5D_zps06d98ae3.jpg
alt="" />

Too bad I don't have anything else ATM. I'm ready to get this show on the road.
 
I'm considering going with the following layout. Not necessarily in the cube formation, but you get the general idea. Even light spread with all colors.

This layout will be repeated twice on two separate heatsinks. Any suggestions? I'd prefer to go with a few less LEDs since that's nearly $400 worth (50 LEDs total).

layout_zpsedf292e2.jpg
alt="" />
 
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