Full Spectrum Arduino LED Build

Anyone have input on my LED layout? That's the thing I am the most uncertain about at this point.
 
After talking over with GiulianoM, we decided to split a set of new PCBs with resistors and jumpers, which will ensure we don't burn out our LEDs in the even of a power failure.

I also picked up a Real Time Clock, since I want to do sunrise/sunset/storm control of the LEDs.. $7 Shipped. Hopefully it works since I decided to upgrade to the newer board, which runs at 3.3v instead of the typical 5v like most Arduino boards.

Link to the RTC:
a>
 
I'm not sure you would burn out LED's if you dropped the PWM signal, but you might fry some corals...I've added 10k resistors from the PWM pin to ground (Vin-) on all my LDD boards, this will drop the LED's to near 0 when/if I ever loose my controller....near zero is better than 100%, especially if I am traveling! good luck and good plan!

pull down.jpg
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Yeah, the new boards - Rev 3.0 - have SMD 10k resistors and jumpers to enable/disable the pull-down.
 
Also ran across a good read for new Arduino users like myself:

http://quarknet.fnal.gov/fnal-uc/quarknet-summer-research/QNET2011/project_files/teacher_files/Getting_Started_with_Arduino.pdf">http://quarknet.fnal.gov/fnal-uc/quarknet-summer-research/QNET2011/project_files/teacher_files/Getting_Started_with_Arduino.pdf</a>

I tinkered with it for a little bit... changed the default LED channel though since it was the same one as a hardwired LED on the board.

Pretty neat and does a good job of explaining some of the "basics"

Also ran across this one:

[IMG]https://learn.sparkfun.com/resources/Handouts/ProtoSnap/ProtoSnap%20Handout.pdf">https://learn.sparkfun.com/resources/Handouts/ProtoSnap/ProtoSnap%20Handout.pdf</a>
 
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110">A GREAT Beginner Arduino Thread</a>

Found this while reading up and thought it might help other n00bs like me.
 
So... Oops.

First piece of advice from personal experience on this build... Don't order electronic parts whilst imbibing in adult beverages. (I recall saying something very similar about plumbing a while back)

7B4F4616-EF76-4C8F-8B8B-53F3287320D7-5466-000003031B7A9680_zpscd5fbbd7.jpg
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Anyone else see a problem? :)

Apparently I selected the wrong part number and ran with it. Oh well. Since everything else is still coming from China or Hong Kong I've got plenty if time to get some new ones.
 
jbadd99;852372 wrote: So... Oops.

First piece of advice from personal experience on this build... Don't order electronic parts whilst imbibing in adult beverages. (I recall saying something very similar about plumbing a while back)

7B4F4616-EF76-4C8F-8B8B-53F3287320D7-5466-000003031B7A9680_zpscd5fbbd7.jpg
alt="" />

Anyone else see a problem? :)

Apparently I selected the wrong part number and ran with it. Oh well. Since everything else is still coming from China or Hong Kong I've got plenty if time to get some new ones.

Wrong width, pin count, and pin spacing. :)

I have 50 of these on the way - of which 40 I will use on the new PCB's.

290870295843
 
GiulianoM;852443 wrote: Wrong width, pin count, and pin spacing. :)

I have 50 of these on the way - of which 40 I will use on the new PCB's.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290870295843?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649">http://www.ebay.com/itm/290870295843?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649</a>[/QUOTE]

Yeah, apparently when I did my search I wasn't paying all that much attention and just added a bunch too my cart... good thing they were REALLY cheap... (like $0.07 each cheap) so I don't feel so bad trashing them.

And look what showed up at my house last night :D:thumbs::yay:
[IMG]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h64/jbadd99/Tank%20Pics/93E738DE-8EF8-4244-989C-EE669C4B4C11-11031-0000060B2A85127A_zpsb24a3b0c.jpg alt="" />

Now I've got to find some cheap thermal paste (not adhesive) and some screws locally. I figure $10-15 for what I need. I'm still waiting on the LCD, new 'duino, LCD shield. Also need to pick up some wire and start looking into how Imma mount this thing (separate or linked).

Also still working out my power supply (Hint Giuliano :D), but I've determined I'll be running multiple channels to control most of the colors independently. I've split the Royal Blues into two channels for two reasons. First, the string of 20 would require more voltage than my drivers can provide and second, when I use them for moonlights I won't have to dim them nearly as much.

Like this:

10 Violet (3.6v @ 500mA) 34v
10 Royal Blues (3v @ 1000mA) 30v
10 Royal Blues (3v @ 1000mA) 30v
10 White (3v @ 1000mA) 30v
5 Deep Red (2.3v @ 600mA) 11.5v
5 Turquoise (3.6v @ 600mA) 18v
5 Cool Blue (3.6v @ 600mA) 18v

That works out to 55 3W LEDs running at 5.3A and consuming 135.5 Watts of power (assuming mu calculations were correct). I have two choices I'm looking at given the voltage and amperage requirements.

First up is the Mean Well HLG-320H-48B, which will provide 48v @ 6.7A and 321.6 Watts. That would leave me plenty of voltage left.

Second choice is the Mean Well HLG-240H-36B, which provides 36v @ 6.7A and 241.2 Watts.
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240h/default.htm">Data Sheet</a></span></span></span></span>

<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">I'm leaning toward the second one. I will obviously need two of them, since the channels listed are only one half of the lighting array, but this still keeps it down to my preference of no more than two AC plugs.</span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px"></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">And I do realize that wiring these things up are going to be a bear to do and keep it looking neat.
</span></span>
 
jbadd99;854717 wrote: Yeah, apparently when I did my search I wasn't paying all that much attention and just added a bunch too my cart... good thing they were REALLY cheap... (like $0.07 each cheap) so I don't feel so bad trashing them.

And look what showed up at my house last night :D:thumbs::yay:


Now I've got to find some cheap thermal paste (not adhesive) and some screws locally. I figure $10-15 for what I need. I'm still waiting on the LCD, new 'duino, LCD shield. Also need to pick up some wire and start looking into how Imma mount this thing (separate or linked).

Also still working out my power supply (Hint Giuliano :D), but I've determined I'll be running multiple channels to control most of the colors independently. I've split the Royal Blues into two channels for two reasons. First, the string of 20 would require more voltage than my drivers can provide and second, when I use them for moonlights I won't have to dim them nearly as much.

Like this:

10 Violet (3.6v @ 500mA) 34v
10 Royal Blues (3v @ 1000mA) 30v
10 Royal Blues (3v @ 1000mA) 30v
10 White (3v @ 1000mA) 30v
5 Deep Red (2.3v @ 600mA) 11.5v
5 Turquoise (3.6v @ 600mA) 18v
5 Cool Blue (3.6v @ 600mA) 18v

That works out to 55 3W LEDs running at 5.3A and consuming 135.5 Watts of power (assuming mu calculations were correct). I have two choices I'm looking at given the voltage and amperage requirements.

First up is the Mean Well HLG-320H-48B, which will provide 48v @ 6.7A and 321.6 Watts. That would leave me plenty of voltage left.

Second choice is the Mean Well HLG-240H-36B, which provides 36v @ 6.7A and 241.2 Watts.
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240h/default.htm">Data Sheet</a></span></span></span></span>

<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">I'm leaning toward the second one. I will obviously need two of them, since the channels listed are only one half of the lighting array, but this still keeps it down to my preference of no more than two AC plugs.</span></span></span></span>

<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">And I do realize that wiring these things up are going to be a bear to do and keep it looking neat.
</span></span>[/QUOTE]

You don't want the HLG series power supplies for this - the HLG-series are constant-current LED drivers themselves, and the LDD drivers are providing that constant-current function themselves.

What you want is a standard AC-DC power supply that provides 48V DC to the LDD drivers with enough wattage/current capability.


With ~136W of power consumed, for 48V that's about 2.8 Amps.

What you want is a MeanWell SP-150-48, an AC-DC 150-Watt 3.2A power supply:
[IMG]http://www.meanwell.com/search/sp-150/SP-150-spec.pdf">http://www.meanwell.com/search/sp-150/SP-150-spec.pdf</a>

They're about $40 at PowerGate.


You can also go up a step to the SP-200-48, a 200-watt 4.2A power supply if you want some extra capacity. $48 at PowerGate.


You want a 48V model instead of a 36V model because with the LDD drivers, the input voltage must be at least 3 volts higher than the output - and one of those LED strings requires 34 Volts.
 
GiulianoM;854725 wrote: You don't want the HLG series power supplies for this - the HLG-series are constant-current LED drivers themselves, and the LDD drivers are providing that constant-current function themselves.

You want a 48V model instead of a 36V model because with the LDD drivers, the input voltage must be at least 3 volts higher than the output - and one of those LED strings requires 34 Volts.

I assumed that since my current LED array used them, they would be compatible with what I am building... guess that's what I get for assuming... and also the reason I asked for your help :thumbs: since I am electronically illiterate.

As for needing 34 Volts on the Violet string... not any more... Here's the new layout:
BF38E9E8-EA57-4C01-8266-DFEEC857B0A2-11031-0000060E71D261D0_zps85c5f0d9.jpg
alt="" />

The other one seemed cramped, so I just spaced everything out evenly with the exception of the one side - I was worried the corners would be dark. This new layout also left me with two extra Violet LEDs, so those strings should now only consume a little more than 30 volts, although from what I'm told very likely less than that. They use 3.6v @ 700mA, but signifcantly less at lower amperage. Since I'm driving them much lower, the foward voltage is also lower.

And I'll likely use the second so I have enough to run fans and whatnot.
 
So the SP-series power supplies doesn't have a 36V option, it jumps from 27V to 48V.

I would still do the SP-150-48, as the LDD drivers can take the 48V input and step it down to whatever is required.
 
GiulianoM;854736 wrote: So the SP-series power supplies doesn't have a 36V option, it jumps from 27V to 48V.

I would still do the SP-150-48, as the LDD drivers can take the 48V input and step it down to whatever is required.

Actually, I'm going to step UP, I think. Since the above list is only one half of my array, it would take two of the 150-48's to power the whole thing.

Instead I think I'm going with the SP-320-48. Onlinecomponents has them in stock and I need new DIP sockets anyways, with a $6.95 flat shipping rate they beat the pants of Powergate in total price point.

That also gives me around 60 Watts and ~1.1 Amps to power accessorys like fans...

And while I was looking at all this, the mailman brought me a present, my 'duino.:D
 
After spending several hours looking, shopping, and looking some more, I've decided that rather than use nuts and bolts that I will just break down and use thermal adhesive. Originally I was hesitant due to the "permanent" nature, but after reading many threads, it doens't seem so permanent after all when a little force is used to remove them. Also, the T-groove nature of the heatsink will allow me to use a screwdriver or such to apply torque if one needs to be removed.

Hopefully 7g of adhesive will be enough for everything.

I also started looking at fans to cool the heatsinks with... I'm looking at the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-186-036&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=5&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29">Artic F12 Pro with PWM control</a>. Any thoughts on this fan? Seems quiet, and each only uses 0.2A at 12v, so after adding a converter they would easily fall within the capabilities of the power supply I'm looking at.

I'm also considering polising the underside of the heatsink - would help reflect light back into the tank and would likely just look more cool than be effective :)


Looks like another trip to Home Depot and Radio Shack are in the near future as well to start building a frame and power block. Stay Tuned!
 
jbadd99;854821 wrote: After spending several hours looking, shopping, and looking some more, I've decided that rather than use nuts and bolts that I will just break down and use thermal adhesive. Originally I was hesitant due to the "permanent" nature, but after reading many threads, it doesn't seem so permanent after all when a little force is used to remove them. Also, the T-groove nature of the heatsink will allow me to use a screwdriver or such to apply torque if one needs to be removed.

Hopefully 7g of adhesive will be enough for everything.

I also started looking at fans to cool the heatsinks with... I'm looking at the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-186-036&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=5&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29">Artic F12 Pro with PWM control</a>. Any thoughts on this fan? Seems quiet, and each only uses 0.2A at 12v, so after adding a converter they would easily fall within the capabilities of the power supply I'm looking at.

I'm also considering polising the underside of the heatsink - would help reflect light back into the tank and would likely just look more cool than be effective :)


Looks like another trip to Home Depot and Radio Shack are in the near future as well to start building a frame and power block. Stay Tuned![/QUOTE]


The SP-320-48 should be fine, plenty of capacity.

For mine, I went with a knock-off of a SP-480-48 - 480 Watts at 48V.


Those fans should do fine - they're 4-wire PWM fans, which is what you want.

Just supply them with +12V DC, Ground, and a PWM signal from the Arduino to control the speed - the 4th wire is the Tachometer signal so you can measure the RPM.
 
The older version of the PCBs I ordered showed up today, as did my LCD and the shield for it.

Interestingly enough, when I ordered PCB, I allowed it to be "open source" so I'd get a free open source PCB with the ones I ordered. Well, I got an Arduino! It's a Leonardo, but still! Might be something I use for a frag tank setup in the future. It does need all the SMD components added to it though so ill have to find a bill of materials.

Ill order my power supply either today or tomorrow and start wiring up as soon as my thermal adhesive gets here. :yay:
 
Here's a shot of a LDD-1000H driver and the pin socket that they go in - I was halfway through removing most of the pins on the socket to fit the boards.

Tgc5o9al.jpg
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And here's the first board completed:

ccUzajMl.jpg
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That one there is 1 of 5 boards that you'll get shortly.
 
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