Geothermal loop

KRB;361468 wrote: The systems I have dealt with are a bit different from what you are doing in that they use a compressor and a type of antifreeze/coolant that is piped way down. The temp is regulated by how much compression is added to the liquid. For what you are doing, obviously cost is the limiting factor. Go with what you got and see how it works. I am interested in this as well. Another note, maybe try a different liquid that has better thermal absorbing properties. I probably would try coolant with thin wall pvc, but maybe there is a different solution.
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Good idea I am researching as we speak!
 
So far nothing that can be used in the pipe has better heat transfer than pure water. The glycol solutions have properties desirable to alot of liquid cooling systems but heat transferr is not one of them. Still searching.
 
sailfish;361462 wrote: Sounds like fun.

Now all you need is to use solar panels to run your MH and you could be the a example of a green tank. :)

Joe
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Might look in to that. i need to figure out how to recover the salt from water changes for reuse.
 
What about just running the powerheads or something off a solar panel and battery system, that way in the event of a power failure, you could at least run the powerheads.

And yes, I realize that power failures are more likely in storms, but where I live, it seems to cut off for no reason whatsoever whenever the power company feels like messing with us.
 
I'd stay away from copper for salt aquarium if the water in loop actually will be used in your tank. Copper, as you know will kill animones and not good for the rest of the critters. Used to use copper pennies to treat for parasites many moons ago (35+) in salt tanks, fish only. If used just as heat/cooling source in an exchanger it would be a better conductor than poly.
 
I'll see if I have any pics from old web site water plant business. This was done about 6 - 7 yrs ago do not have business or green house anymore but might have pics.

Cooper;361430 wrote: Nice idea Dave. Hope to see it.
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Did more research on the different types of material for the pipe and found some interesting things. The heat exchange between the pipe and the soil will only be the difference in the two's temp. Taking that into consideration the plastic pipe will transfer as efficiently as copper due to the fact that the soil will only accept so much of the heat. I guess it would be like mounting a 400hp engine on a go-cart you could never use it all.
 
oldschool52;361755 wrote: I'd stay away from copper for salt aquarium if the water in loop actually will be used in your tank. Copper, as you know will kill animones and not good for the rest of the critters. Used to use copper pennies to treat for parasites many moons ago (35+) in salt tanks, fish only. If used just as heat/cooling source in an exchanger it would be a better conductor than poly.
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This will be a closed loop system with only tank water passing over the heat exchanger not in the loop. I decide to go with this type system for the exact and accurate reasons you stated above. I felt there is a lesser chance of contamination
 
Curious but how long do you think it will take to break even once you factor in equipment cost and electrical usage of the pump? What size pump will it require to run this loop?
 
James S.;361772 wrote: Curious but how long do you think it will take to break even once you factor in equipment cost and electrical usage of the pump? What size pump will it require to run this loop?
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I am not sure about the break even point because I never have run a chiller on my system yet. to gauge cost of running one. I am going to start with a 400 high head Quiteone pump to start with but I think that will be too much. In the closed loop there is very little if any head pressure and really not that much static pressure. The mini escavator was 199 a day out the door for rental which i had to rent to replace my water supply to my home but you can factor that in for cost. The pipe is 8.5 cents a foot fot the thin wall. I Estimate around a 1000 for the cost so far.
$200 rental
$400 heat exchanger and controller
$ 400 for pipe, fittings, flow meter, pump,misc.
 
I realize I'm showing up late to the party on this thread... but just wanted to say that I really thought about this several times in the past, and never got enough time to carry through with it. I even have eight 6' 1.5"aluminum pipes in my basement that I bought for the project. I had done the math and as much research as I could. It was just a matter of digging up my back yard...

Good luck with it. Take pictures! And kudos to you for making it happen!
 
Cost is roughly $1000 which is comparable I guess to a decent size chiller....Does the heat exchanger use electricity? Not too familiar with how they work....
 
James S.;361772 wrote: Curious but how long do you think it will take to break even once you factor in equipment cost and electrical usage of the pump? What size pump will it require to run this loop?
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A pump would be required either way, so this should be part of the equation.

Dave's one step ahead in the equipment rental since he had to have it for a repair anyway.

A good sized chiller will pull 10+ amps, so this should be a no brainer...so long as it works!
 
James S.;362192 wrote: Cost is roughly $1000 which is comparable I guess to a decent size chiller....Does the heat exchanger use electricity? Not too familiar with how they work....
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Don't want to steal the thread but.... Heat exchanger is usually an outer pipe with a smaller pipe in it. The water from the tank would run through one, and water from the ground would run through the other, thereby "exchanging" the temperature between the two. No electricity needed, but a pump or two is needed to keep things moving.

However, you make up for it in the long run with no chiller running costs....
 
James S.;362192 wrote: Cost is roughly $1000 which is comparable I guess to a decent size chiller....Does the heat exchanger use electricity? Not too familiar with how they work....
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I guess the easiest way to explain how I hope this system will work is. I took a 1hp chiller and converted the freon portion of it over to cool water of which I get from the the buried pipe in the loop. A 1 hp chiller's compressor will pull 1200 watts vs. the water pump for the loop pulling 50 watts. If it works I would think it would cost a fraction of a chiller's cost.
 
great discussion! have you taken any "temprature readings" at the approx 5' deep level in your yard? like abunch of samples: what is the temp at 2pm and at 2am, how about in the peak of summer vs the peak of winter?

once you had this data (for your specific install)... you could better estimate if the geothermal loop is actually going to cool or even endup heating your tanks water.

basically you can see if the averaged 'ground temps' are higher or lower than your avg 'tank temps'.

seems like you could buy an inexpensive "temperature probe" and just bury it for the next 6 months. record the data and then you could even figure out how efficent the system is should you decide the temp data looks promising...

what do you think?
 
Ima2nr;364553 wrote: great discussion! have you taken any "temprature readings" at the approx 5' deep level in your yard? like abunch of samples: what is the temp at 2pm and at 2am, how about in the peak of summer vs the peak of winter?

once you had this data (for your specific install)... you could better estimate if the geothermal loop is actually going to cool or even endup heating your tanks water.

basically you can see if the averaged 'ground temps' are higher or lower than your avg 'tank temps'.

seems like you could buy an inexpensive "temperature probe" and just bury it for the next 6 months. record the data and then you could even figure out how efficent the system is should you decide the temp data looks promising...

what do you think?
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I will try to find the link where I gathered the info for ground temps in this region of ga. There were several regions posted on this site. i will post as soon as I find it again.
 
Could it be be used as a coil denitrator as well? I'm thinking that you would need to slow the flow way down and that would kill the cooling efficiency.

Jonathan
 
Jonathan;364683 wrote: Could it be be used as a coil denitrator as well? I'm thinking that you would need to slow the flow way down and that would kill the cooling efficiency.

Jonathan
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This is a closed loop system. saltwater never leaves the sump are. the thermal loop is regular tap water which recerculated thru the loop.
 
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