Green Acro browning!!! Help!

Right...so if I cut down on the food a bit, and perform more water changes it should lower the nutrients, no? Not sure what SPS is doomed means...are you saying that once the browning occurs that it is impossible to reverse? The browning started when I started feeding a bit heavier. I was feeding heavier because the tang was dominating the other fish at feeding time, and I was concerned that the other fish were not getting enough to eat. Instead of overfeeding I will attempt to put the vortechs on feeding mode, and feed the tang on one side of the tank, and feed the other fish on the other side, while the tang is occupied with the other side...

CJ
 
doomed meaning if you don't have someway of exporting phosphates for sps, they are doomed and water changes and less feeding won't do it alone...
 
OK so keeping up with water changes, lower feeding, I skim a tad on the wet side. My sump has a small 10x12x8 inch water area where I could grow Chaeto in, and I coud get a light for that...

PH is about 8.3...pretty good there. Would adding the chaeto do it, or would you reccomend some kind of dosing program?
 
just get a brs reactor and use brs gfo pellets...should be fine after removing the high levels you have now which could take a while....
 
You can run phosban or GFO and/or carbon. I have heard a few good things about the Seachem Seagel. Can be run in one reactor.
 
Update!

So my Phosphates are testing low with a seachem test kit. What else could be causing browning corals?

CJ
 
maybe some GFO in a media bag might help if your phos is too high.. My system is 55 gal so it is a similar size to yours and I change out a media bag of GFO every 3 weeks and have never tested for Phos... all i know is that i had a coupl algae outbreaks in the past, and now I don't... although I also don't have any fish as big as your Purp tang.. I do have a green acro positioned in the top 1/3rd of my tank under 220 watts of T5 and it looks fine..
 
gently introduce GFO if phosphates are the issue.. HOWEVER.. I'm not sure that browing is due to phosphates...

I've had SPS do that because of too much direct flow.

B
 
how tall is your Tank? 20 inches .... I bet your lights are set way to high for your set up -
I run my sol blues near where you have yours and I have a 30 inch deep tank ... I had the same issue with browning corals (lost some sps frags) .. dialed back the sol blues and the tank took off. I slowly raised the light to my liking since. make sure your levels are in check as said above. what are your other corals doing ? I noticed my zoos would not open up when the AI were set high. turned them back a bit and they are all opening up and growing. also you might want to slowly raise the spa to where you want them- set them on the sand bed for a few days and let them get use to the lights ....hope this helps
 
Cjsparky;722619 wrote: Update!

So my Phosphates are testing low with a seachem test kit. What else could be causing browning corals?

CJ


I don't believe the Seachem Phate kit is accurate enough to measure low range phate.

Get yourself a Hach, DD Merck, or the new Elos kit....

Edit: plus, it only measures what's in the water, not bound up in rock and sand & algae...
 
UPDATE

I had a vortech aimed almost directly at it but about 14 inches away. I have moved the Vortech about 5 inches off center. A smaller birdsnest SPS frag started to really whiten on top. I have my AI's at 50%W 60%B 60% RB for now, and they are pushing through a normal window screen so I dont have any jumpers. I need to get off my butt and start a pay pal account so I can get the clear screen from Arcoholic.

I have not fed for a few days...I will start feeding again today. Flow burn may be spot on the money. I will try and get a picture later today.

CJ
 
If you can I would move the coral to the sand bed
If possible or turn down those AI ...I have mine set at 40w 60b 60rb ( only 3 hrs at this setting)
On a 30 inch tank . How long are ramp periods with the lights ?
 
My lighting schedule:

8:00 AM 0 W - 20 B - 20 RB Ramp 60 min
9:00 AM 60 W - 75 B - 75 RB Ramp 180 mins
6:00 PM 10 W - 25 B - 25 RB Ramp 180 mins
9:00 PM 0 W - 2 B - 3 RB Ramp 30 mins Moon on

I will cut it down in length and intensity today...

I discovered a few vermited snails on the shell that the frag was mounted to...the frag gets all spiderwebby. Do I need to get rig of these or are they ok?

CJ
 
I would just do one thing at a time keep the time periods just adjust the
Intensity... The more things you change at once the Harder it is to know what is working jmo...

the 60 75 75 is what I would adjust for a while .. As for the snails use some super glue on them or hot water with a Baster ... Not much harm unless they are keeping the corals closed up ..
 
UPDATE!!!

OK so I have a 2 little fishes reactor, and I am running Carbon in it, then a sponge, and then GFO in it. I turned the lights down a bit so they are maxxing out at about 50W-55B-55RB on the AI's. I also cut down a bit on feeding, but after testing with a seachem test kit, I am showing very low Phosphates anyways.

Maybe I am crazy, but the tips on my corals seem to be making a comeback. Fingers crossed! My birdsnest also had begun to brown on the tips, but today the green polyps were extended further than ever before. Hopefully all will be well!

CJ
 
UPDATE...

Corals are not making a come back, but are dying. I usually do a 10 Gallon WC every other week, but today I tested my water, and found I am experiencing a bit of an ammonia spike. The only thing added to the aquarium was the reactor running carbon pellets and GFO. I am mixing 10 gallons right now, and will do a 10 gallon wc tomorrow morning. I am not sure what is causing the ammonia, but I guess I am going to have to up my WC to 15 gallons every other week. Just bought a new thing of salinity. My nems, fish, zoas, and brain coral are all doing fine...Just my SPS that are struggling.

CJ
 
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