casper75;155493 wrote: Coralvue makes a dimmable ballast, and there Lumenbright reflectors cover some kick A** plus you can run them with your bulb 16" off the water.
Here is link to the reflectors http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1211402">http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1211402</a>[/QUOTE]
Right now I am not considering the LumenBright reflectors. I have read a lot about them, but In my case spread is my main concern. I feel that a 400W bulb with a good reflector will give me the penetration I need, but the LA3 reflectors will simply do a better job of evenly distributing the light within the tank. If I do cut the top and build a brace I might consider the LB reflectors at that point... I hear they are coming out with a 24" LB which might be good for my application then we will have to see.
I have also considered doing 2 1000W MH's with the flying saucer reflector (one over each opening) but I'm just not sure if the 1000W bulbs are going to be too strong or not. Think about it though 2 1000W's and several VHO's or T5's (to fill dead spots and add color... That might be cool...
mojo;155613 wrote: http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37907">Been there, done that. </a>I ended up with 300g of water on the floor and pieces for a frag tank. Acrylic and metal bracing don't mix... Modifying the acrylic top like I mentioned above will do what you need.[/QUOTE]
Thanks mojo, I read you thread about your old tank... Man that is a bummer... but after reading it and seeing the pictures I just don't think the problem was with the metal brace... The one thing that lead me to this conclusion was a statement you made to someone about bowing... You said that you had got the chance to check the bowing and it bowed 1/16" of an inch at the top (basically bowing until it met the metal) and 1/8" in the center. That sounds to me like the tank was under built. Also when you have a catastrophic release caused by inadequate top bracing often enough the panel splits and if any seams let go it's the sides where the most force is being applied. I think they used capillary action for there gluing technique and simply didn't get enough "glue" at the seam where the two panels met.
The guy I bought the tank from is the owner of Ultimate Aquariums. He built this tank for himself and had it funning in his house for some time. He told me that this was his "show/display" tank so everything on it was perfect. He also stated that there isn't a single air bubble anywhere on any seam on that tank. I asked him about doing the top brace (like I mentioned previously) and he told me that that would work fine. He said that it is no different than a glass tank builder putting a brace at the top instead of Euro bracing. He also said that the point of the top Euro brace is to add rigidity and to prevent flexing (as much as possible) and this can be accomplished with a strong Edge brace.
With all this said, I still have concern and I still would only do this as a last resort after a lot of testing (of different light schemes) with the tank in it's existing configuration. I will consider adding to the existing Euro bracing, but I would need to get with some very reputable Acrylic tank builders to determine how thick the top Euro brace would have to be in order to cut it back the way I would want to (really I would be happy yo just loose the center brace). I would also want to find out if two pieces of acrylic that are laminated together are as strong as a "regular piece of thick acrylic. Also I'm not sure adding another piece of acrylic to the top would be cost affective. From what I have seen a 4x8 sheet of 1 1/4" cost's over $1000, plus the labor to do the modification.
casper75;155632 wrote: Harley
I understand about what you are saying about the lumenbright , but if you look through that thread I posted you see you can raise the reflector up to get more coverage and not lose any par. I did alot of thinking before I went with the large lumenbright for my 300. Also I definately agree with MOJO about reforcing the top of the tank. Acrylic tanks are built to spec with the top you have now for structual integrity. If you want to I can give you an acrylic tank builder I know By the name of Scott (AKA SPAZZ) you can talk to about cutting the top and adding more support to it.
Harleyguy;155634 wrote: Once the silicone dries I "should" have a uniformly think 1/8" buffer between the Brace and the acrylic sheet.
casper75;155638 wrote: When are you going to be home. I have one you can try and let me know what you think
mojo;155644 wrote: I understand exactly what you're talking about - I tried to do the same thing, but used silicone rubber strips I found from McMaster - what you're talking about should work better. My concern would be the optimal thickness for the silicone - too little, and there's not enough buffer; too much, and the brace won't be effective enough. I don't have a clue what that optimal size would be, however. The other issue is the heigh of the brace around the ouside of the tank - I don't know how much would be enough...
blind1993;155662 wrote: how about this; you leave the tank the way it is and work around its cons?
the light lay out the you have should work if you aquascape to work with it.