How to Properly Maintain SPS

How old are the bulbs? I thought overdriven bulbs weren't good after around 8-9 months.
 
the bulbs are all less than three months old...I have been overdriving the tank since aug 8th...the only thing that i know that i am going to try is rasing the salinity to 1.025 (up from 023) and start using h20 salt or seachem reef do to the reviews of the oceanic being inconsistant with there salt mixes....that is where i stand now...i am also thinking of doing .5ml of vodka a day for maybe a month just to see what the skimmer does....that is after i test everything
 
Low salinity causes burnt/bleached tips with mine.
I had a little ATO problem and once the salinity was restored to 1.026 they recovered fairly quick.

Robb
 
No one has a liquid you can just pore in there and fix everything do they...i guess i could just use black lights on my tank to get some really cool looking corals for about a month till they die from uv's...just messing around
 
I am confused ares...I thought you said that it wasn't the light like two three posts above...now you are saying its the light? Or am i just being a rere today
?
 
1. I am rasing my salinity to 1.025
2. Changing salt brand to seachem reef
3. Do very small doses of vodka at .5ml a day for a month and see what happens
4. U tell me I am lost
 
I really doubt you have to much light as well. Your corals are stressed from something and maybe the change in light is causing a little to much stress. I will say it again go get your water tested by some high end kits and see were your water really is.

Then once you do that you can make some educated decision not just random things. If you do a search for threads started by Derek he had posted par numbers from an overdriven t-5 fixture.

Very rarely does a coral actually bleach from to much light because most people do not have enough light to do it?

How often do you check DKH and how do you supplement it. To me this is the most important parameter to check from sps health.

Most 75 gal are 18" deep as well. Let us know what you water tests and what happens.

good luck Joe
 
sailfish;372640 wrote: I really doubt you have to much light as well. Your corals are stressed from something and maybe the change in light is causing a little to much stress. I will say it again go get you water tested by some high end kits and see were your water really is.

Then once you do that you can make some educated decision not just random things. If you do a search for threads started by Derek he had posted par numbers from an overdriven t-5 fixture.

Very rarely does a coral actually bleach from to much light because most people do not have enough light to do it?

How often do you check DKH and how do you supplement it. To me this is the most important parameter to check from sps health.

Most 75 gal are 18" deep as well. Let us know what you water tests and what happens.

good luck Joe

I have a 2inch sand bed (thats why i said 16inches)...I have a precision marine kalk reactor for alk, cal, ph...My alk is 8 constant....

Just tested right now
ELOS KH (8)
ELOS PO4 (0.00)
API NO3 (0)
API CAL (420)
MILWAKE PH MONITOR READING (8.2)
TEMP 78 RANCO CONTROLLER
SALINITY (1.023)

I just did a 5gallon water change with salinity reading 1.026...Will be doing this every other day until i achieve 1.025 for salinity
 
ares;372643 wrote: ah, it was derek, I knew someone with an T5 setup was doing par readings! sorry. but yeah, if you check his thread, might be a great indicator, as I think he too had a 75g, or something like that, 4 T5s.

I beleave he has a 4foot 120 at 30inches deep
 
Sounds good to me but when you get a chance try a Salifert or Elos kit for nitrate. Derek API kit was way off like 12 ppm off

Is the salinity measured with a refractometer?

When ever I have problems or one reading is way off I get someone else with different kits to test everything before making changes.

I am not sure but I would cut the carbon use down to half that much. That sounds like alot but I measure mine in cups.

Joe
 
Anyone reading this on the south side?
I have a free frag if someone would like to come have a double take of my tests
 
I would be concerned about both of the bulb combos you mentioned. Super actinic bulbs provide low par even if overdriven. Then you have a fiji which is essentially white with red accents. I would ditch both actinics for two ati blue plus bulbs which are near the top as far as par and provide the blue portion of the color spectrum.
 
I think Derek's is a 140 "one fo oh fo sho" It's very deep and he has SPS all over the tank and multiple clams on the sand bed. I think he has like 8 overdriven T5's and some VHO's.
 
cdub;372683 wrote: I would be concerned about both of the bulb combos you mentioned. Super actinic bulbs provide low par even if overdriven. Then you have a fiji which is essentially white with red accents. I would ditch both actinics for two ati blue plus bulbs which are near the top as far as par and provide the blue portion of the color spectrum.
I have the ati blue plus but when i install that that is when everything starts bleaching...when i go back to the two fiji's i start getting some of my color back
 
My tank is a 120 with 4 overdriven and 2 normal t5s. I have 5 blue plus and one fiji purple which gives it an 18k look. I have decent color and sps within a few inches of the top of the water.
 
Sailfish was askinf if the salinity measured with a refractometer? I wondering as well. Maybe its not calibrated correctly.
 
Ok this is my FTS...Two fiji's overdriven are extremely bright...I don't have a pic with one fiji taken out and replaced with the ati aqua blue special (12k)...But that is when i started having my problems with bleaching etc
The pic was taken with my Crack berry so deff not the greatest
 
sorry
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Hydrometers???
Don't save on the wrong end - it will bite your b.u.t.t.
 
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