How to Properly Maintain SPS

U r right ares. But hopefully it will all get worked out in the next month or two
 
Ok so i had a green milli (rather large) that was brownish pinkinsh... i moved it down 6 inches and boom instantly turned a nice green color...that is funny
 
Well i am buying another set of normally driven t5ho's 48inch to add two actinic's then jeff is building me a canopy to raise my lighting and i am going to have it where it is adjustable to raise and lower my lights...i am going to take away one fiji and add one ati blue special (12k daylight) start off at about 8inches high and work my way down to about 5inches...I am still dosing .4ml vodka...I haven't really noticed much except my skimmer is pulling maybe a little bit more gunk out...not sure if i am just looking for something to say the vodka is changing or what...
 
Oops- this was supposed to be from my account:

I'm coming in late to the conversation, but I thought I'd add my two cents.

You're definitely not supplying too much light. I used to run 2x1000w lights, and now run 4x400w, with 600-700+ PAR on some corals, including pink birdsnest which is just an inch or two from the surface. And that pink birdsnest is very bright pink.

I know some people have luck with T5's, but I never have. My wife's tank has 16 T5's over it. Same corals and same water, but the same coral moved from my tank looks brown. You can point me to dozens examples of nice tanks with T5's, but they're not for me - I just don't think they're the same. Despite the science behind it, I think there's more than just PAR going on. What that is, I have no idea.

I think the issue is one of several things (or a combination thereof):

- as others said, possible low salinity, although I'd be surprised
- high nutrients. Add GFO and/or carbon. Look to BRS and get some catridges with both.
- "New tank syndrome" - your tank looks fairly new for the types of corals you're trying to grow. How long has it been established? The best indicator for SPS's I've heard of is to wait until you see dime-sized growths of coraline algae on the back glass, and THEN start adding SPS's
- not enough light
- not enough general flow, or too much directed flow. You want the polyps to flow in the current, but not be stripping the flesh from the skeleton.
- Bad RO water. I went through this myself for a couple months- tried everything, and my water tested at 0 TDS, but the tank didn't perk up until I replaced the RO/DI catridges

I realize it's frustrating. Keep trying and you'd find the culprit.
 
My tank is a year old...I scrape all of the coraline off the back glass b/c i don't like it...My overflow is covered top to bottom...Everything will bleach if i put it up to even hydnapora (i can't spell)...there is a total of 5000gph flow alternating on reef crest mode (two mp40s)...my ro/di unit is only a couple months old still testing 0-1 tds
 
Well I got my new canopy (thanks Jeff) in the process of staining it and painting the inside of it...also adding some notches in the canopy so that i can raise the lighting from 3 inches all the way up to 8 inches...just got a new workhorse ballast and two new pair of t5 end cpas with wiring harness...now i am just looking for reflectors (2) and bulbs (two actinic of some sort)....now the progress...I have been dosing vodka up to .6ml a day and have just added an MP40w gen 2...bubls as of right now are two super actinic and 2 fiji purples....don't know what is working but something is b/c now some of my diji's that were very dark brown are slowly turning green pollip with purple base....birdsnest i have started over with starting them in a corner kinda shaded and plan on moving it up a couple inches within the next week...but the digi's are coloring up slowly...don't know what is working but something is
 
Also my salt is now 1.025 (now seachem reef) and got a refracto meter and it is dead on with my hydramoter
 
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