Ich.... whats the proper way...
- Thread starter tonytran509
- Start date
There is this medicated food. I have never used so i dont know if it actually works
Dr G's Marine Aquaculture - Medicated Fish Food
Dr. G's Marine Aquaculture. The finest marine and salt water products available for your aquarium.
www.drgsmarineaquaculture.com
tonytran509
Well-Known Member
thank you for everyones replay... yea it took a toll on the tang woke up at 6 to open shop and went downstairs to it struggling to swim and was at the bottom just flopping from one side to the other... so as a quick emergency i set up a quick qt in a 5 gallon bucket and dosed it with cupramine as thats the only thing i had on hand... wife woke up at 9 and said that it was close to the top so i had her add a gallon of fresh salt mix i had... hopefully i come back home later and it isnt too late.... im going to stop by atlanta aquarium later and grab focus and metroplex and start doing the food things you guys had suggested for the other fish... really only the hawk and 2 clowns in the tank.... unless you guys recommend me throwing them all in a qt tank, dose cupramine and also the food thing?
Last I checked, AA had a bottle of Rally. Grab that and give them all a 30-45 min dip in rally - should help alleviate some of the symptoms.
At this point, honestly, it sounds like you just need to be aggressive with all of it and hope they pull through. Raise the Cupramine to therapeutic within the next day. Dose with Metro directly as well as putting it in the food with Focus. Grab an ammonia badge, because you’re not going to get accurate ammonia readings with any test kit. Unfortunately, you’re going to have to do water changes with Cupramine probably every couple of days to keep the ammonia down.
Copper Power + Prime worked well for me, and I was only doing small, weekly water changes. But you can’t use Prime with Cupramine.
While you’re at AA, might as well grab a bottle of Prazi, too. That should get you set for QT.
At this point, honestly, it sounds like you just need to be aggressive with all of it and hope they pull through. Raise the Cupramine to therapeutic within the next day. Dose with Metro directly as well as putting it in the food with Focus. Grab an ammonia badge, because you’re not going to get accurate ammonia readings with any test kit. Unfortunately, you’re going to have to do water changes with Cupramine probably every couple of days to keep the ammonia down.
Copper Power + Prime worked well for me, and I was only doing small, weekly water changes. But you can’t use Prime with Cupramine.
While you’re at AA, might as well grab a bottle of Prazi, too. That should get you set for QT.
tonytran509
Well-Known Member
Do the med and copper during qt and then avoid the hassle.
As I tell another member recently, qt is actually more work than maintaining the display tank in my opinion. Minimum 50% water change in the dead spot of the house and then watch all the water parameters. But all in all, it’s easier than having to tear the tank down and risking everything.
As I tell another member recently, qt is actually more work than maintaining the display tank in my opinion. Minimum 50% water change in the dead spot of the house and then watch all the water parameters. But all in all, it’s easier than having to tear the tank down and risking everything.
How’s it going?
This may be a silly q but can fish get sick from corals or only other fish?
This may be a silly q but can fish get sick from corals or only other fish?
Not silly at all. My best attempt at a simplified answer: sort of.
In the case of ich or velvet, the tomont stage attaches to any surface: rocks, coral skeletons, snail and shrimp shells, the aquarium glass. Think of this as the ich “egg” that will hatch and release the swimmers. This is why you have to go fallow (fishless) for a couple months, because they absolutely have reproduced in the tank. However, they need fish to make new babies.
So in short: not directly, no. But anything you introduce into the tank *might* have disease that can affect fish, which is why some folks quarantine everything. The risk is lower for inverts and frags, but it’s absolutely still a risk.
Direct damage from corals can trigger disease. Coral and anemone stings can absolutely affect fish, as well as accidents causing cuts or other damage to the fish and becoming infected - either bacterial in the wound or causing stress and susceptibility to ich.
