I'm stumped

wmboots;734459 wrote: there is more in play here than a simple lamp change and I find it interesting how even just a couple years ago 18 months was an acceptable life span for T5's and manufactures still tout 16-18 months. Now its 6 months or less ( I'm not buying it and lighting particularly T5 retrofit is one of the lines my company specializes in).
Jenn I will be coming by to see you tomorrow afternoon with a water sample, something is wrong and about the only thing I haven't tested for is ammonia because my test bottles are empty. Frogspaw colony of over 25 heads will probably be completely dead by morning yet monti's are thriving as well as other sps, I am beginning to wonder if a granddaughter or one of her friends have put something in the tank.


Everyone certainly is entitled to their opinion, but it has been proven through many spectral analysis tests that T5s start to shift their output spectrum around 12 months.....and from the read I remember......that was with ATI bulbs which are some of the best. If trying to maintain a reef with SPS, 9 months is the recommended change point. Certainly does not mean one has to do that. But the optimal T5 change point is certainly before 18 months. So, I guess it would come down to a discussion of what is acceptable vs what is best.

I totally agree with you on API test kits. They are fine and economical for normal testing. When there is a problem, I certainly would not rely heavily on them. But, to get an idea of Ca, test for any detectable PO4 or NO3.....or even NO2 or NH3 for that matter......they are a much more wallet friendly and mostly reliable option. Their copper test kit is just garbage for practicality purposes. I also have Salifert or Red Sea kits to verify...... periodically.......that the numbers API gives me are close. So far, they have always been. Salifert is the only test kit that has ever failed me so bad that I actually harmed livestock........but that was about 4-5 years ago when they had several batches that were found out to be bad. Typically, they are very good.
 
I use api just for the nitrates and phosphates, and it always seems accurate to me. I also occasionally get the water tested at a LFS too, and my readings are usually the same. I haven't tried the API test kits for cal, alk, and mag though, and I want to get the red sea test kits to try them out.
 
did another water change, have phosphate sponge and seachem phosphate media in media bag placed in each end of sump. tested phosphates and still at .5 using api and salifert test kits. beautifull growth of frogspawn is all but gone, 2 huge pink birdsnest aren't looking too well and now a huge brain coral is looking washed out and I'm afraid it is on its way out. something has poisioned my tank but have no idea what it is. I'm afraid 5 years of growth in a beautifull eco system is being destroyed and I'm at a loss for an answer or explanation

Edit: in case anyone has an idea my rodi unit is faulty I have tested the water put out and phosphates are 0 so phosphates aren't coming from fresh water. I have gone over any changes made over the past couple of months and the only changes have been switching salt and I use a hose (dedicated for salt water use only) attached to a mag 5 pump to carry water from mixing tank to aquarium during water changes. I switched from salinity to instant ocean (for 2 water changes) then to reef crystals for the past 150+ gallons of water changes
 
That really does suck. Other than running carbon.......which I believe was mentioned......not sure what else you can do. I doubt that phosphates at 0.5 would cause such large scale die off. I've seen worse were the corals suffered, but it was a much slower process. And softies and euphyllia were unaffected by it.......just the SPS. While it does sound like a toxin, one would thin it would effect everything at once. Hope you are able to get it all figured out. Just fix what you can. Could be also that you have already gotten the offending agent out, but the damage was already done? Good luck.
 
Don't recall if this was already mentioned or not. You say you tested your RO/DI and all looked good but did you test the mixed SW before putting in the tank? Maybe something has gotten into the salt.
 
I've gone thru and checked everything, whatever happened it destroyed some beautiful coral. Last time I had a problem I was able to trace it back fairly quickly once I stuck my hand in the tank and got a tingley feeling and when I checked the sump I couldn't get my hand out fast enough. Turned out the turbo twist ultra violet leaked which blew the lamp and my tank became alive with electrical current.
I do know that this has me frustrated and wondering if I need to back off for a period.
 
gfo can get saturated very quickly....I would run gfo pellets from BRS, and change frequently at first...maybe twice a week....I would also start dosing vodka to get rid a trates.....

should cover you...
 
LilRobb;736249 wrote: You should make this your signature, it's the cure for all!

I wonder if it helps with my dry scalp too?!


well, do you have a better answer smartbutt?

why should I answer the same question any different than before?

If the answer is most likely or probably high nutrients, why not give the easiest and most inexpensive route that can save his/her system? Of course, high nutrients might not be the answer, but you know what? at least this will make things somewhat better if not................I've found that most sps keepers (including myself) have issues with high nutrients at some point in their reefkeeping....

why would you even critize someone trying to help another reefer with extremely valid info?
 
Apparently a little joking and poking is no longer in order?

I'll add another one to my "cannot take jokes" list...

mysterybox;736251 wrote: well, do you have a better answer smartbutt?

why should I answer the same question any different than before?

If the answer is most likely or probably high nutrients, why not give the easiest and most inexpensive route that can save his/her system? Of course, high nutrients might not be the answer, but you know what? at least this will make things somewhat better if not................I've found that most sps keepers (including myself) have issues with high nutrients at some point in their reefkeeping....

why would you even critize someone trying to help another reefer with extremely valid info?
 
LilRobb;736254 wrote: Apparently a little joking and poking is no longer in order?

I'll add another one to my "cannot take jokes" list...


crap, I thought u were serious....I'm sorry......I didn't realize that you were joking....had a long day....I mistook your inflection, and I apologize!

keep joking please....
 
keeping my fingers crossed that I finally found the problem with my system, started tearing into the sump after I noticed water was bubbling up and over the intake chamber of my sump. Found the holes in the chamber seperator panel was totally clogged with old cullerpra and small tube worms, then I grabbed hold of the filter sponge on my return pump and all kinds of junk spewed into the tank. Pulled the sponge off and literally took 10 minutes of rinsing in tap water to get all the diatrous and other junk cleaned out. Could have sworn I cleaned the sponge out just a couple weeks ago but looking at my log it was more like a couple months ago (4 to be exact).

As for vodka dosing I will look into that (how much, how often and when), gfo I like the idea but it seems all I read are bad reviews on the bsr reactor. Any input on bsr and if anyone has one for cheap (or trade) let me know.

I sure hope I have finally found the answer to all my dead coral and can save the other sps and lps specimens that are looking very pale
 
This was discussed in another thread, but I have had no clogging issues with the BRS reactor. In fairness I have to say that I don't run "heavy" on the GFO (around 2c), and most of the clogging issues seem to happen with larger tanks (requiring the media to fill up much more of the reactor).

Though I have no problems with it, I'd still rather have a more "industrial" reactor like an MRC or something similar.
 
Can I get a brake already!!!!!!!
Wife calls me this afternoon tells me my tank is making a terrible noise after a couple quesitons I determine the sump pump is sucking air. Wife informs me the chamber the pump's in is completely empty. This couldn't be I just topped off the topoff tank last night so it had at least 10 gallons of water in it. Wife gets a 5 gallon jug of water from filtration room and proceeds to refill the sump and she informs me she is hearing water splashing (uh oh drain pipe from tank to sump fell out) tell her to turn off sump pump and she proceeds to turn off the whole power strip and all pumps and powerheads are now off until I get home.
Get home find the topoff tank is completely empty and that my wife added another 10 gallons of fresh water which means 20 gallons of fresh water have been dumped in a 90 gallon tank, now my salinity is 1.18. I have 20 gallons of salt mix at 1.26 make a quick change now I'm barely at 1.21.
I CAN'T WIN
anyone want a complete 90 gallon setup? it may be in a thousand pieces and will require alot of super glue and silicone to put back in operational state
 
It appears I finally have things under control but the loss of coral colonies is tremendous.
2 large (I mean large) colonies of pink birdsnest
1 huge blue tip acro colony
1 very large blue tip acro colony
1 huge and gorgeous green bottle brush
1 spongode colony
1 spongode frag (from lilrob)
3 kenya tree colonies (what shame)
1 favia colony
1 very large green mushroom
several orange plating monti colonies
All but a few heads of frogspawn are gone but the remaining heads are trying to hang in there.

On top of the loss of the coral everything in the tank looks washed out.

I have gone thru everything that I have done with my system over the past 6 months and the only changes "I" have made is changing salt and I just don't believe changing salt from one name brand to another name brand could have caused all of this.
I really wonder if one of my granddaughters may have put something in my display tank that caused all this.
 
Man what a bummer. Let me know what I can do. You are welcome to come by and help yourself to anything in my tank when you are ready.
 
Ok so I'm looking into gfo/carbon reactor and phosban reactor on bulk reef trying to decide what I need. I see the dual reactors but I believe I've read somewhere about issues with the dual reactors and then I see the ocotopus reactors. Knowing reef ocotopus skimmers are excellent skimmers are their reactors any better than brs reactors. I'm open for opinions and suggestions as I will be adding reactor(s) to the new system.
 
I say that you go to SEA and get two sea system 200 media reactors. I am happy with mine, and they are about the same price as phosban reactors. I sold my BRS dual reactor because I didn't like it.
 
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