Iodide overdosing

cooper

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Folks:

Made a mistake. Thought I was dosing calcium but was actually dosing iodide. About a 10X overdose. It has been about an hour...my leathers look somewhat shriveled. Any thoughts ... concerns....ideas? BTW I think my iodide was low. Don't have a test kit and don't does iodide normally.

Thanks.
 
what do you think that I will lose? I cannot mix water here so will have to wait until tomorrow to buy some. My research indicates invertebrates and clams are vulnerable. Right now, the sps corals seem fine...the star polyps have withdrawn some. What about fish?
 
Did read something about carbon being helpful. For now, I am going to put in new carbon and wait until tomorrow for water changes. Unless I get some other advice which I welcome.
 
BTW....how quickly would you expect to see negative impacts? It has been about two hours now.
 
Seems like I remember something about high doses in the short term weren't a problem but, I'm not sure if it was meant that 10X was a high dose or something lower. Whatever the case, please keep us posted on how things go. FWIW, dawgdude is right on the iodine. Unless you have an abundance of softies, shrimp, crabs, etc., there really isn't aneed for extra iodine as most salts have the necesary amounts already.
 
I do have a mixed reef with a lot of softies and crabs/shrimp. Things still looking prett all right. Tim from Keens Reef said I have to wait a few hours for the iodide to convert. Will keep you posted.
 
dawgdude;436211 wrote: Vibrance is SUPPOSED to not convert into free iodine in a tank. I dont know how it will do in an overdose situation but I would assume you mainly need to worry about the affects on the corals really.

My limited understanding of chemistry is that:

Overdose of Iodide will convert to Iodine. Shortly there after it will convert to Iodate. Then convert back to Iodide. If the concentration of Iodide is above a certain level, they cycle starts again.

I don't have the formulas to go over the checmical reaction, but this is what I remember.

Thanks,
Tim
 
I remember some years ago, Chris Brightwell showed me that Kent Ammonia Detox would bind up iodine (in that instance, Lugol's solution).

That product, or Prime could potentially help in the short term, until water changes could be done. I suggest testing too, to see what the level really is.

Jenn
 
Iodine in it's 'diatomic' form I2, is the only form that appears to have strong antibacterial and toxic properties. Both iodide and iodate do not appear to exhibit much antibacterial activity, according to the literature. See below article by Randy Holmes-Farley.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm</a>

As for iodine removal via activated carbon, and granular activated acarbon in particular, it does remove it. In fact, the 'iodine number' for GAC is one of the standard tests used in determining the relative activity for GAC. I can attest to the validity of this, based on personal scientific application during product testing. I have provided a Wiki link to an article on Activated Carbon for reference, as well. Removal will depend on the form, but I2 is removed.

[IMG]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activated_carbon">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activated_carbon</a>

In the absence of any other immediate remedy, I would recommend immediately placing a large quantity of activated carbon (GAC), based on your aquarium size, in your water flow/filtration stream to maximize removal. Follow this up by the previously mentioned water changes for diution, as a precaution. As for what a large quantity of GAC represents; on a 125 gallon tank, I would use at least 2-3 cups short term, until a water change could be done. Good luck!
 
well folks-

Everything looks all right this AM. One shrimp molted. The sexy shrimp are all ok. The star polyps and the leather still seem pissed, but they are all right to. Off to get water. Thanks for everyone's advice.
 
Cooper;436288 wrote: well folks-

Everything looks all right this AM. One shrimp molted. The sexy shrimp are all ok. The star polyps and the leather still seem pissed, but they are all right to. Off to get water. Thanks for everyone's advice.

Good news! Thanks for the follow-up, and continued good luck!
 
Yes Dawg, as I mentioned "removal depends on the form, but I2 is removed". Iodide has a low toxicity, and was not the primary concern. Diatomic Iodine (I2), if present, was of paramount importance.

Incidentally, acivated carbon impregnated with siver chloride yields high adsorption rates for iodide. I have not researched the exact mechanism, but I suspect that silver chloride acts as a catalyst to dissociate the iodide molecule (ie-splits up the atoms), after which the iodine may then be adsorbed. Silver impregnated GAC is readily available in the market.

At any rate, Coopers specimens appear to be holding their own, and he is on his way to get new salt water, which we all know is the surest remedy.
 
FWIW- as a follow-up, the silver chloride impregnated GAC (grannular activated carbon) works to remove iodide via a direct substitution reaction:

Ag:Cl + R:I &gt;&gt; Ag:I + R:Cl

It happens at room conditions, and only appears to be significantly reversible at pH below 7. So if you ever need to remove it there's how.

The main advantage I have found reference for dosing iodine, is for shellfish, clams, certain corals (especially soft varieties) and certain algal growth. This makes me curious if iodine supplementation is necessary for zooxanthellae growth? (no reference found yet, about this) The only concrete evidence I found on any of this suggested</em> that most animals acquire iodine via their diet, not directly from the water. So, if supplemnentation works, it most likely may be via a'secondary' process, such as via bacterial absorption, then on up the food chain, etc.

I have both dosed according to the bottle, and not used it. With water changes not much difference. In any case, I think Dawg's advice to measure, if at all possible, is prudent.
 
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