Jessezm's quest for SPS colors/growth (blog)

[FutureInterest]

Very nice thread.

Jesse, my heat went up a degree as well once I started overdriving the T5s. I've read they create more heat than halides as well, but again that its spread out, which doesn't help much if you have a canopy. I still get by with evaporation since my tank is much smaller, but switching to vortechs has reduced evaporation noticeably as well.

Can you take a shot of your lighting layout? I'd like to see where you squeezed the VHOs into.

 

[jessezm]

I actually had to unscrew and move the T5's closer together to squeeze in the two extra bulbs--it took some monkeying! I'll take a shot later tomorrow--one bulb is the first in line, and the second is 5th from the front, I think.

The idea of moving to high-flow powerheads is actually intriguing, but I'll have to wait on that one, I think. The set up does not lend itself well to any powerheads in the tank...

 

[jessezm]

Okay, I'm home for the night...Long day in Atlanta!

The corals look great, though the tank is ever so slightly cloudy, indicating a possible bacterial bloom, which makes complete sense. I'm going to hold off on the pappone tonight, since I think I added more than necessary last night, and there's no need to go too fast.

Tony and Jaime are on their way over to hang out for a bit (Tony's on his way to St Simons, lucky devil!), so I better go try to get the boys to bed. More later!

 

[sammy33]

Jesse - How long does it take for your acrylic to get "dusty"? I have to run the mag float over mine about every other day to keep it clear.

This coating of algae/diatoms seems to be an indicator of organic levels. I am curious to see if this will change when I start the Pappone feedings. The coral feedings I am doing now only involve phyo, roti-feast, oyster eggs and cyclopeeze with no carbon source or sugar.

Has your algae build-up rate changed with the pappone?

 

[jessezm]

sammy33;90660 wrote: Jesse - How long does it take for your acrylic to get "dusty"? I have to run the mag float over mine about every other day to keep it clear.

This coating of algae/diatoms seems to be an indicator of organic levels. I am curious to see if this will change when I start the Pappone feedings. The coral feedings I am doing now only involve phyo, roti-feast, oyster eggs and cyclopeeze with no carbon source or sugar.

Has your algae build-up rate changed with the pappone?

Sorry I haven't updated in a while! I've been busy with work, but have been keeping up with the feedings every day except over this past weekend since I was out of town.

To answer your questions, Sammy, I have noticed that the dusting on the glass (acrylic, actually...) appears sooner than it used to. In fact, every other day I have to give it a wipe. Algae in other parts of the tank is about at the same level, though. Very light diatoms in a few spots (usually gone by morning), and short tufts of green hair algae in more shaded spots.

One thing I have started to do is add a little boost of either sugar or vodka every few days on top of what's in the mix. This is because the amount of sugar in the recipe seems rather low compared to what is called for when dosing separately. I haven't noticed any reall difference yet, but last night was only the third time I tried this and the lights aren't on quite yet.

Other observations include polyp extension on corals that never used to extend their polyps, like my suharsonoi and bottle brush. some PE is evident all throughout the day, not only at night.

Colors are better than before, but not by a huge amount. I'll try to get some comparison pics up in a little while.

Overall, I still feel like this is a beneficial exercise and I'm committed to keeping it up and seeing what happens. Saty tuned for pics later on. I have to run out and get a CO2 refill...

 

[twd4]

jessezm;85503 wrote: First, a little about my tank:

It's a 200g corner pentagon, 30" high, acrylic tank with a 40g sump.

Lighting: 8 X T5s overdriven with IC660 ballasts, and 2 VHOs for actinic supplementation

Filtration: I have an 8"X30" custom skimmer--sort of a clone of a deltec 851 with an OR3700 recirculating meshwheel pump. It pulls about 900lpm of air, but the neck is a little narrow and I'm looking into other options.

I thought I had successfully moved you to an ASM skimmer on your last tank hehe. Were you unhappy with it? If i remember correctly you got rid of your tank shortly after that so maybe you didnt see how effective it was /shrug. I think an ASM G5 or so on your current system would be a very cost effective route. Or drop the funds on a reeflo, which is what i am running now =) If your having any heat isues you may wanna look at an external skimmer like the reeflo. Extremely efficient, low heat, low noise.

 

[twd4]

First, a little about my tank:


I also have just installed a chiller and brought the temps down from 86 to 81.
/QUOTE]

I would continue to work on shedding some degrees. 77-78 seemed to be the magic number for color in my tank. i dont know if you even remember my two 180s unfortunately a server crash cost me all the pics i had =*( or i would show you some before and after shots of my 180 SPS when i got my temps from 80 down to 77-78. You have always has a "busy" tank and im wondering what pumps you are using to run all these reactors you have installed as well as the chiller pump. I like the fact that you are using darts for your return and close loops they are awesome and efficient pumps. I am not sure of your current setup, what pumps are you using to run your chiller, calcium reactor, phosban reactor, and whatever else you are running? Perhaps multiple pumps used to run these devices could be replaced with 1 more dart?

 

[jessezm]

twd4;90732 wrote:

I thought I had successfully moved you to an ASM skimmer on your last tank hehe. Were you unhappy with it? If i remember correctly you got rid of your tank shortly after that so maybe you didnt see how effective it was /shrug. I think an ASM G5 or so on your current system would be a very cost effective route. Or drop the funds on a reeflo, which is what i am running now =) If your having any heat isues you may wanna look at an external skimmer like the reeflo. Extremely efficient, low heat, low noise.

Hey man! I liked the G3 just fine, and in fact, I'm very impressed with what Jaime's (Slayer77) G6 does on his 500g system. Still, I think a G3 would have been a little underpowered for my fish load and 230+ gallons total water. Also, any of the the other models would be too tall to fit under my stand (the only place I have for equipment, basically...). The other thing is I needed an external skimmer, since my sump's skimmer compartement is too small for most skimmers rated for my tank...

I'm going to make a few changes to my skimmer as it is now once funds are available, including ordering a new top half with a wider neck (from 3.5" to 4.5"), and possibly changing pumps to a Sicce (or two), or a Euroreef or H&S modded Ehiem...

I'd love the Reeflo skimmer, but it won't fit, and I can't afford it. If I bought a new skimmer, I'd actually be interested in one of Elos' venturi injection skimmers, and am thinking about saving up for one...

 

[jessezm]

twd4;90734 wrote:

First, a little about my tank:


I also have just installed a chiller and brought the temps down from 86 to 81.
/QUOTE]

I would continue to work on shedding some degrees. 77-78 seemed to be the magic number for color in my tank. i dont know if you even remember my two 180s unfortunately a server crash cost me all the pics i had =*( or i would show you some before and after shots of my 180 SPS when i got my temps from 80 down to 77-78. You have always has a "busy" tank and im wondering what pumps you are using to run all these reactors you have installed as well as the chiller pump. I like the fact that you are using darts for your return and close loops they are awesome and efficient pumps. I am not sure of your current setup, what pumps are you using to run your chiller, calcium reactor, phosban reactor, and whatever else you are running? Perhaps multiple pumps used to run these devices could be replaced with 1 more dart?

I could easily turn down the temp now that I have a chiller, so maybe I'll try that... I didn't want to take it too fast.

As far as pumps go, the calcium reactor has an Ehiem 1250 (external), and is fed with an aqualifter; the PO4 reactor is tee'd off the return, and the skimmer is an external OR3500. I really planned this whole setup with heat issues in mind, so go figure... I'm pretty sure it's the Darts that are putting the bulk of the heat into the water, but I could be wrong... Actually, the motor on my OM 4-way is always hot, but I don't think much of that heat transfers inside the unit, as it is mag-driven. Other than that, overdriving the T5's probably has something to do with it as well...

 

[twd4]

yah i didnt mean run the g3 on that system. I ran one on my 180 + 50 gallon sump softie and it was plenty. Could have done like a G4+ or G4x on your current. I dunno if you remember but i have a skimmer snob like no other hehe..i have spent rediculous ammounts of money trying skimmers and few have made me happy being the efficiency freak that i am.

Are you using fans to cool your T5s? And are you using a fan in the canopy to pull heat out so its not an oven sitting on top of your tank?

 

[jessezm]

I have three good size fans blowing through my canopy, which is still open all the way around, so it's never too hot under there... Also, Dawgdude, I have tried active cooling on one of the pumps, but I think that the fan I used was worthless, so maybe I'll try that again with something better. Like I said, though--now that I have a chiller I'm a bit less concerned with temps. I actually fixing to crawl under the house right now and turn it down a few more degrees!

 

[jmaneyapanda]

This tip works ridiculously well for keeping my tank cool. I ducted one leg of my central air to shoot into my stand (where my sump, etc are). This means that during the hottest parts of the year, I ahve the coldest air being forced into the area I want cooled the most.

My tank actually runs hotter in late fall and early spring (when the AC doesnt run much, but the ambient air can still get warm) than it does in the dead heat of summer.

Its actually not an "easy" fix, but it is absolutely effective.

 

[jessezm]

Now there's a good idea! Not quite sure I would be able to do that, though...

 

[skriz]

jmaneyapanda;90775 wrote: This tip works ridiculously well for keeping my tank cool. I ducted one leg of my central air to shoot into my stand (where my sump, etc are). This means that during the hottest parts of the year, I ahve the coldest air being forced into the area I want cooled the most.

My tank actually runs hotter in late fall and early spring (when the AC doesnt run much, but the ambient air can still get warm) than it does in the dead heat of summer.

Its actually not an "easy" fix, but it is absolutely effective.

That's exactly what I've done also. I used a plastic register that I can close in the winter (if needed to avoid heating the area!).

 

[jessezm]

Maybe I'll look into it afterall... Besides, I need to repair some water damage to the drywall behind the stand anyways... Always something that has to be done!

 

[skriz]

Something that may be good to add to the vent would be a one-way-flap. This way condensation/evaporation doesn't travel into the duct when the a/c is not on. I don't have this yet, but it may be worthwhile to add.

 

[jessezm]

OK, now for my much-anticipated photo update....

First, Several shots from today...then, some comparison shots (if I can find comparable pictures...)
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[jessezm]

a few more....
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[jessezm]

A few comparisons:

Green Milli--14 days:
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[jessezm]

Center SPS Island: 14 days
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