wmboots;298641 wrote: Panda didn't pose this question to start an argument but do love a good discussion, having been in the electrical field for 40 plus years (yes I'm dating myself) and working with "GREEN" (I hate that term) lighting for a couple of years now you can throw me all the par numbers etc. you want. The reason t-5's can replace 3 400 watt MH's is due to there reflectors and they way they cast light (by the way 6 x 54 = 324). Now I will say light does react differntly in water (gee learned that becoming a master dive instructor) than it does on land. T-5's have their limitations but not nearly the limitations of a metal halide fixture. For one find me an actinic MH bulb and a second point put a thermometer next to a MH ballast or lamp versus t-5's. For the most part everyone loves to talk about the shimmer of the MH fixture and that is because the initial 1" of water where all the movement is causing light refraction that gives the shimmer but you also have substantial shadowing with MH's that you won't have with t-5's and that is because if you have a 48" long tank you have 47.5" long lamps so you get equalized lighting across the tank, you lose the shimmer because you don't have the initial concentrated light that you get from a single MH bulb that covers what 6" -12" of your tank. As for my reflectors on my compacts well guess what these reflectors are for the individual lamps and I assure you they are quite comparable to t-5's I didn't say identical but comparable. I am considering going to t-5's for the exact reason I stated above about the lamp covering the whole surface area of my tank.
Boots:
I am not trying to be argumentative either, but I believe you are quite misinformed. I do not doubt nor discredit your electrical or diving experience, but I do not think they provide applicable experience to this discussion.
Yes, indeed, T5 will make a more even spread. Is this better? Furthermore, with quality MH reflector, such as Lumenbrights, which are raised off the water surface, that spread will be significant for a MH lamp. I would argue that the corals can do just as well, if not better with the point source illumination, rather than the "even" spread you discuss.
Regarding the temperaure issue (both color temperature and heat temperature), both are completely inconsequential, and I again believe you to be misinformed. I owned 20KK MH bulbs that made the lighting of flourescent actinic pointless. I could turn thhem on and off with no consequence while the MH bulb was burning. Indeed the MH bulbs are hotter. So what? What does this have to do with anything, no less "better"?
Again, I really think you are fooling yourself if you think your PCs are comparable to either T5s (properly set up), or MH. This has been proven and proven and proven again. I could gladly dig up much of this research for you, if youd like.