LED Design

[reefkeeper]

GiulianoM;744548 wrote: My name is Giuliano, not John.


As I mentioned at the frag swap, the DIY spectrometer is producing a wide color band from the diffraction material I'm using, but the issue right now is that the 50W LEDs overpower the camera, essentially white-outing the results.

I was planning on making a pin-hole apeture this weekend, to replace the current slot-based mechanism for letting in light.

Less light should hopefully mean making it easier to measure.


I also plan to pick up a conventional household CFL light so I can attempt a calibration.

Sorry !!! for some reason I have a habit of calling everyone John. Numbers I'm good at, but I'm not good at remembering names.

I remember you mentioned that. I hope it works out. I found these 1 watt UV's on ebay at the link below. I may just try to work a deal with my current led supplier since they gave me a good price on the 50 watters.

 

[jbdreefs]

GiulianoM;744548 wrote: My name is Giuliano, not John.


As I mentioned at the frag swap, the DIY spectrometer is producing a wide color band from the diffraction material I'm using, but the issue right now is that the 50W LEDs overpower the camera, essentially white-outing the results.

I was planning on making a pin-hole apeture this weekend, to replace the current slot-based mechanism for letting in light.

Less light should hopefully mean making it easier to measure.


I also plan to pick up a conventional household CFL light so I can attempt a calibration.

Ha, and I was thinking that I had been calling you the wrong name all this time :unsure:

Edit:

Reefkeeper;744542 wrote: John, how are the new changes to the spectrum analyzer coming along? I've been taking some PAR readings from my test rig and I'm extremely pleased so far. In fact I'm so pleased I just paid for some additional LED's which should be shipped shortly. I also decided to order a VDM module for my Apex so I can control the dimming functionality with the other LED's and test rig I’m about to build.

I'm a bit curious about the Spectrum on these 50 watters. I'm getting pretty good color and PAR and so far my corals, which consist of a variety of LPS and a majority of SPS are doing extremely well. I've been monitoring all of them very closely. They all seem to like the new lighting because I'm getting fairly good amount of polyp extension on all the corals. In fact the LPS and Zoa's I have at the bottom of the tank are happy as hell and I’m a bit surprised.

I'm thinking about purchasing some UV led’s, but I’m going to wait a bit to see what happens with your Spectrum testing. I’m thinking about trying get my hands on true spectrum analyzer from some lighting partners we deal with at my job.

Would you mind sharing your PAR readings (both leds and halides)? I've been following this build closely because I'm considering a similar setup when i get around to my next build.

 

[giulianom]

Best $50 I've ever spent on a tool, ever</em>.

This mini tapping jig from LittleMachineShop keeps the taps perfectly perpendicular to the material, making tapping small diameter holes super easy.

Smallest tap size is #0, largest is 5/16.

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[rdnelson]

Now I know where to come.

 

[giulianom]

rdnelson99;745429 wrote: Now I know where to come.

Just wait until I get one of these....


http://www.tormach.com/product_pcnc_main.html">http://www.tormach.com/product_pcnc_main.html</a>

Won't be anytime soon, unfortunately.

 

[rdnelson]

LOL That would be nice.d I want one of these......

Edit: That was a stainless steel manufacturing plant we did up in Gilmer Co.
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[chris s]

Giuliano,

Just curious if you had a chance to try the pickling alum trick?

 

[giulianom]

Chris S;745471 wrote: Giuliano,

Just curious if you had a chance to try the pickling alum trick?

I tried it, but I don't think I got the amount of alum powder right...

I used about half a tin - a few tablespoons, and left it overnight...

Tried to get some more, but Kroger was out.

I have 2 heatsinks with broken taps in them, so ill try it again later.


I already bought a replacement heatsink, but if I can reuse these 2 for other LEDs that would be great.

 

[chris s]

It has to be a saturated solution. Boil the water and add alum until you can't get any more to dissolve. Also heat is the key. I use a glass bowl and put it on a heat plate. The hotter you can keep it the faster it works.

 

[giulianom]

Can I put a Pyrex bowl on a hot plate?

I have a gas stove, and can boil the alum solution there...

 

[chris s]

only some of the older pyrex is hotplate/cooktop safe. to be safe find a pot the pyrex will fit in and float the pyrex inside the pot with water. it will transfer the heat and protect the pyrex. i've done some larger pieces this way and used a few bamboo skewers on the bottom of the pot to protect the bowl from resting on the bottom.

 

[giulianom]

Gotcha - a double boiler configuration.

I will try this again later, Kroger was out of alum...

 

[lilrobb]

Chris S;743923 wrote: You can salvage those heatsinks. Go to the grocery store and look in the area where they keep pickling supplies. Look for pickling alum, it should come in a bag like the pickling lime we use. Using hot water mix a really strong solution of the alum. Submerge the heatsink and walk away. In 12 to 24 hours the tap should disappear without hurting the aluminum. I suggest using a plastic or glass container and if you can keep the solution warm the reaction happens faster. I found this info on the web years ago when I was more into metalworking. It saved a few aluminum and brass parts.

and i feel your pain. I just finished tapping over 200 4-40 holes.

What's the underlying chemical reaction?
It can't be oxidation as aluminum oxidizes much quicker than a steel tap...

Just curious...

 

[giulianom]

LilRobb;745629 wrote: What's the underlying chemical reaction?

It can't be oxidation as aluminum oxidizes much quicker than a steel tap...



Just curious...

Rapid rusting of the steel tap, supposed to turn it into sludge.

Supposed to work on a ferrous item in a non-ferrous material.

E.g., steel tap in aluminum, iron bolt in bronze, etc..

 

[lilrobb]

GiulianoM;745631 wrote: Rapid rusting of the steel tap, supposed to turn it into sludge.

Supposed to work on a ferrous item in a non-ferrous material.

E.g., steel tap in aluminum, iron bolt in bronze, etc..

Rusting is oxidation, and aluminum oxidizes MUCH quicker than steel.

In fact, in order to restore threads on steel bolts - you put hot salt water and aluminum flakes in a container.
The aluminum oxidizes, the rust reduces back to steel.
Known as a redox reaction to chemists - so while the rusting is the outcome, it can't be oxidation in this case...

 

[eric b]

GiulianoM;745476 wrote: I tried it, but I don't think I got the amount of alum powder right...

I used about half a tin - a few tablespoons, and left it overnight...

Tried to get some more, but Kroger was out.

I have 2 heatsinks with broken taps in them, so ill try it again later.


I already bought a replacement heatsink, but if I can reuse these 2 for other LEDs that would be great.

I hope you are able to get the broken tap piece's out. I don't know if you are tapping dry or with some type of lubricating fluid but I always use a product called tap magic and it works wonders and is cheap. Just got through tapping a bunch of 4-40 and 6-32 holes in 1/4" aluminium plate and no taps broken using this stuff.

 

[giulianom]

Eric B;745739 wrote: I hope you are able to get the broken tap piece's out. I don't know if you are tapping dry or with some type of lubricating fluid but I always use a product called tap magic and it works wonders and is cheap. Just got through tapping a bunch of 4-40 and 6-32 holes in 1/4" aluminium plate and no taps broken using this stuff.

The broken taps aren't that important right now, since I don't need to remove them to complete my project.


There is this tap removal tool, I might consider it:

http://www.amazon.com/Walton-10063-Flute-Extractor-Square/dp/B0006N8DFK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_8">Amazon.com: Walton 10063 #6, 3 Flute Tap Extractor With Square Shank: Industrial & Scientific</a>


I was using oil to cut the threads, it's just that it was too easy to wrench the tap at an off angle and snap it.

Since I got my tapping jig, it's made it much easier to keep the taps straight - and they cut with ease, without any sideways force that could snap them.

 

[chris s]

The alum forms a solution that reacts with ferrous metals causing them to oxidize. You can actually see bubbles coming off the tap during the process. Because it only reacts with ferrous metal the aluminum is untouched.

 

[giulianom]

Took the heatsinks, and tapped-out the previous fan mounting holes for 6-32 threads, and mounted one of the 92mm fans.

The nice thing about these fans is that the wires are long enough so that the wires can reach to the center of the unit, where all the power connections will be made.

I have a 6-to-1 fan power distribution board that I'll use to power all 6 fans.


Here's one of the heatsink fans, with the new top cover that I picked up from MRC last week.

As I expected from the 3D model, the fans have almost exactly 1/8" of vertical clearance between the fan and the top cover - a pretty good fit!

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[giulianom]

I wired up the 6 fans to a fan power distribution board, and plugged in a 12V 2.0A DC power brick.

The fans are rated for full speed at 500mA, so the 2.0A power supply under-powers them a bit but they're pushing plenty of air!


With the top off, the fans are pretty quiet, and not much louder with the top on.

With the top on, you can feel the air flowing out the side vents at a pretty good rate.


These fans ought to keep everything well cooled...