LED Design
- Thread starter giulianom
- Start date
Unfortunately I can't use a larger screw for some of this - the mounting holes in the LED are only 3mm in diameter, which is roughly the size of a 6-32 standard thread.
I've been cutting the threads with oil, but what happens is that since the force I apply to the tap handle may be uneven, the tap can snap.
I've been thinking of getting one of these to help keep the taps aligned:
I've been cutting the threads with oil, but what happens is that since the force I apply to the tap handle may be uneven, the tap can snap.
I've been thinking of getting one of these to help keep the taps aligned:
Don't want to insult you because it sounds like you know what you are doing. But, sometimes it helps to hear something we already know in situations like this. 
When you are cutting the threads, just turn a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and then back out a couple of turns to clear the cuttings away. AL will gum up in the cutting teeth and lock it down. As I said, you probably already know that but.......
When you are cutting the threads, just turn a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and then back out a couple of turns to clear the cuttings away. AL will gum up in the cutting teeth and lock it down. As I said, you probably already know that but.......
i forgot to post that when i asked about the drill bit. at work the guy puts the tap in the mill turns the speed to nothing and jogs forward and back. when i asked he said it keep even pressure with out binding or bending the tap. so the jig you posted would work but costly.
LOL I feel your pain. In my industry we use "Tri-Taps" a lot. There are three sizes on one end and 3 sizes on the other end. For the longest time I couldn't use one without breaking it. Especially the 6/32. Over the years I just learned to go very slow, do my best to keep it straight and always have a back up. Having a back up was key. If I had one, I wouldn't break the one I was using. LOL
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Hey John, being farting around tonight and had a chance to put my LED Test RIG together. The RIG configuration consists of (2) 20K High Power 50 watt LED's, (2) Royal Blues 455nm 50 watt LED's and a Meanwell 240 watt driver. I have all (4) LED's in parallel on the driver running right now. I connected a 100K Potentiometer to the driver for dimming.
Unfortunately I can't dim the blues and the 20K's separately . I'm going to have to build another RIG and put (4) blues in parallel on one driver and the 20K's on the other. Here's some shot's of the Test RIG and the lights installed on the tank.
I'm going to take some PAR readings within the next couple of days. From what I'm seeing so far, the LED combo at full strenght displays more purple/blue then I would like to see. However once again I have no capabilities of just dimming the blues right now. I also haven't installed any Lens/Reflectors as of yet. I purchased some 90 and 120 degree Lens/Reflectors for my testing.
Edit: By the way, I've been looking on the web for the 1.75 amp fuses. I just can't seem to find them anywhere. Can you post the link per out discussion at the Frag Swap on Saturday?
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Unfortunately I can't dim the blues and the 20K's separately . I'm going to have to build another RIG and put (4) blues in parallel on one driver and the 20K's on the other. Here's some shot's of the Test RIG and the lights installed on the tank.
I'm going to take some PAR readings within the next couple of days. From what I'm seeing so far, the LED combo at full strenght displays more purple/blue then I would like to see. However once again I have no capabilities of just dimming the blues right now. I also haven't installed any Lens/Reflectors as of yet. I purchased some 90 and 120 degree Lens/Reflectors for my testing.
Edit: By the way, I've been looking on the web for the 1.75 amp fuses. I just can't seem to find them anywhere. Can you post the link per out discussion at the Frag Swap on Saturday?
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Buy the way....Before I starting Tapping the heatsinks, I went and bought a Titanium tapping bit and it worked perfect on the heatsinks. The heatsink I bought may have a softer aluminum, it cut like butter and I did go real slow when tapping. I'm thinking at some point I'll have the same issue tapping 16 heatsinks.
You can salvage those heatsinks. Go to the grocery store and look in the area where they keep pickling supplies. Look for pickling alum, it should come in a bag like the pickling lime we use. Using hot water mix a really strong solution of the alum. Submerge the heatsink and walk away. In 12 to 24 hours the tap should disappear without hurting the aluminum. I suggest using a plastic or glass container and if you can keep the solution warm the reaction happens faster. I found this info on the web years ago when I was more into metalworking. It saved a few aluminum and brass parts.
and i feel your pain. I just finished tapping over 200 4-40 holes.
and i feel your pain. I just finished tapping over 200 4-40 holes.
Now that is some good info!!!!! Never heard that one before, although, if you ever wondered about Coca-Cola, it works great for dissolving concrete that seeps into conduits embedded in a concrete slab. Makes you wonder what it does to your innards. LOL
The LEDs that are powered by the same driver will all dim together, as they're on the same circuit.
That's why I have 3 x 10K and 3 x 455nm Royal Blue, but they're going to be on seperate drivers/circuits so I can dim them seperately - two 185W drivers.
The test rig looks good - how do you think the colors and brightness look compared to the radium bulb?
For the fuse holders and the fuses, these are what I ordered:
Fuse Holder
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=01500145Zvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-01500145Z">http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=01500145Zvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-01500145Z</a>
1.75A Fast blowing fuse:
[IMG]http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=03121.75HXPvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-03121.75HXP">http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=03121.75HXPvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-03121.75HXP</a>
I bought 10 of each.
I may consider adding a resistor before each LED, to reduce the current it receives slightly.
Technically the LED should only receive a max of 1.70A, and the fuse can hold at 1.75A for at least 4 hours... but reducing the current by a few hundred milliAmps may let them last a bit longer.
I will draw out a circuit diagram later today to help explain.
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With 4 LEDs powered by 6.7A max, the divided current is 1.675A per LED.
If you lose one LED, the 6.7A is divided by 3 instead of 4 - resulting in 2.23A to the remaining LEDs - which is too much current.
The 1.75A fuses are closer to the 50W LED's typical maximum current (usually 1.7A, give or take), so they'll blow faster than the 2A fuses will - theoretically saving the LEDs from burnout or reducing their lifespan from overcurrent.
My LED build was going great with the physical hardware portion, until I snapped a few 6-32 taps...
Edit: I have decided to order a set of 90mm case fans to use instead of the fans that came with the heastinks...
I ordered 6 of these at a slighly discounted price of just under $5 each:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150031">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150031</a>
Reasons why:
<ul>
<li>The power cables on the existing fans are rather short, only about 6".</li>
<li>These fans are a standard size and height - 90mm x 25mm</li>
</ul>
I will probably have the acrylic top re-cut with fan ventilation slots instead of the 4" holes.
I think I'm going to go with this instead for the new cover:
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The new top with the fan ventilation holes is shown on bottom, with the old top with the large holes shown on top.
The fans are 90mm in diameter, which is just a tad over 3.5".
I've made the outer diameter of the outer most slots 3.5", the slots 1/8" wide, with a 1/4" radius gap in between slots. The inner solid "circle" is about 1".
The lid is countersunk with a lip into the box by 1/8", which leaves me about 1 1/8" of clearance between the heatsink fan mounting tabs and the inside of the lid.
And since case fans are usually 25mm (1"), it should be a good fit.
The new top with the fan ventilation holes is shown on bottom, with the old top with the large holes shown on top.
The fans are 90mm in diameter, which is just a tad over 3.5".
I've made the outer diameter of the outer most slots 3.5", the slots 1/8" wide, with a 1/4" radius gap in between slots. The inner solid "circle" is about 1".
The lid is countersunk with a lip into the box by 1/8", which leaves me about 1 1/8" of clearance between the heatsink fan mounting tabs and the inside of the lid.
And since case fans are usually 25mm (1"), it should be a good fit.
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John, how are the new changes to the spectrum analyzer coming along? I've been taking some PAR readings from my test rig and I'm extremely pleased so far. In fact I'm so pleased I just paid for some additional LED's which should be shipped shortly. I also decided to order a VDM module for my Apex so I can control the dimming functionality with the other LED's and test rig I’m about to build.
I'm a bit curious about the Spectrum on these 50 watters. I'm getting pretty good color and PAR and so far my corals, which consist of a variety of LPS and a majority of SPS are doing extremely well. I've been monitoring all of them very closely. They all seem to like the new lighting because I'm getting fairly good amount of polyp extension on all the corals. In fact the LPS and Zoa's I have at the bottom of the tank are happy as hell and I’m a bit surprised.
I'm thinking about purchasing some UV led’s, but I’m going to wait a bit to see what happens with your Spectrum testing. I’m thinking about trying get my hands on true spectrum analyzer from some lighting partners we deal with at my job.
I'm a bit curious about the Spectrum on these 50 watters. I'm getting pretty good color and PAR and so far my corals, which consist of a variety of LPS and a majority of SPS are doing extremely well. I've been monitoring all of them very closely. They all seem to like the new lighting because I'm getting fairly good amount of polyp extension on all the corals. In fact the LPS and Zoa's I have at the bottom of the tank are happy as hell and I’m a bit surprised.
I'm thinking about purchasing some UV led’s, but I’m going to wait a bit to see what happens with your Spectrum testing. I’m thinking about trying get my hands on true spectrum analyzer from some lighting partners we deal with at my job.
My name is Giuliano, not John.
As I mentioned at the frag swap, the DIY spectrometer is producing a wide color band from the diffraction material I'm using, but the issue right now is that the 50W LEDs overpower the camera, essentially white-outing the results.
I was planning on making a pin-hole apeture this weekend, to replace the current slot-based mechanism for letting in light.
Less light should hopefully mean making it easier to measure.
I also plan to pick up a conventional household CFL light so I can attempt a calibration.
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