Well, since both lenses come with the reflectors, I can probably do both.. Epoxy the lens to the plastic reflector, and then use some kind of a Z-fold clip to hold the assembly in place. That way I can exchange the lens assembly if I want to.
LED Design
- Thread starter giulianom
- Start date
I stopped by Fry's in Duluth today, and picked up some parts to make a box for the dimmer circuit.
It's a interlocking clamshell aluminum project box from LMB Heeger, model #000 - 3.25" long, 2.125" wide, 1.625" tall.
http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=1">http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=1</a>
I also picked up a 5K linear pot - they didn't have any logaritmic pots, no surprise there.
The little black plastic piece is a strain relief bushing - for running wires through the aluminum box sides.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HpKpJ.jpg>
alt="" /></a>
Basically, the half on the left is the "bottom", and the half on the right is the "top".
I plan to attach the circuit board directly to the top of the box (upside down), with the MOSFET attached to the case via a small piece of 1/8" thick aluminum strip.
The rest of the board will be adhered to and insulated from the aluminum box - double sided foam tape, perhaps.
Essentially the box becomes a heatsink - and I can always add a real heatsink on the outside if I need to.
The 5K potentiometer I am not sure if I will mount in the box, or external via a remote wire.
It's a interlocking clamshell aluminum project box from LMB Heeger, model #000 - 3.25" long, 2.125" wide, 1.625" tall.
http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=1">http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=1</a>
I also picked up a 5K linear pot - they didn't have any logaritmic pots, no surprise there.
The little black plastic piece is a strain relief bushing - for running wires through the aluminum box sides.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HpKpJ.jpg>
Basically, the half on the left is the "bottom", and the half on the right is the "top".
I plan to attach the circuit board directly to the top of the box (upside down), with the MOSFET attached to the case via a small piece of 1/8" thick aluminum strip.
The rest of the board will be adhered to and insulated from the aluminum box - double sided foam tape, perhaps.
Essentially the box becomes a heatsink - and I can always add a real heatsink on the outside if I need to.
The 5K potentiometer I am not sure if I will mount in the box, or external via a remote wire.
GiulianoM;664531 wrote: I stopped by Fry's in Duluth today, and picked up some parts to make a box for the dimmer circuit.
It's a interlocking clamshell aluminum project box from LMB Heeger, model #000 - 3.25" long, 2.125" wide, 1.625" tall.
http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=1">http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=1</a>
I also picked up a 5K linear pot - they didn't have any logaritmic pots, no surprise there.
The little black plastic piece is a strain relief bushing - for running wires through the aluminum box sides.
Hello, I'm just getting back into reef keeping think I'm gonna try this. Wish me luck. Mike user name culater
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HpKpJ.jpg>alt="" /></a>
Basically, the half on the left is the "bottom", and the half on the right is the "top".
I plan to attach the circuit board directly to the top of the box (upside down), with the MOSFET attached to the case via a small piece of 1/8" thick aluminum strip.
The rest of the board will be adhered to and insulated from the aluminum box - double sided foam tape, perhaps.
Essentially the box becomes a heatsink - and I can always add a real heatsink on the outside if I need to.
The 5K potentiometer I am not sure if I will mount in the box, or external via a remote wire.
Hello, I'm just getting back into reef keeping think I'm gonna try this. Wish me luck. Mike user name culater
So the first LED that I ordered has arrived - the 7000K 50W LED that was sold as a 20000K 50W LED.
Pics:
The 33V @ 1.5A driver & the LED. The blue stuff is protective tape.
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Closeup of the LED itself.
The tab on the bottom is the positive (+) terminal, which is also connected to the solder pad on the left just under the + symbol in the plastic.
The tab on the top of the picture is the negative (-) terminal, also connected to the solder pad on the right just under the - symbol in the plastic.
You can see the LED chips themselves, the little dots - and the wiring, 10 LEDs in series x 5 strings of LEDs in parallel across the chip.
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Bottom of the LED plate.
The four mounting holes in the corners are exactly 34mm from each other (square), and the curved sides make for a circle 56mm in diameter.
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I'm not going to power this LED up - although I want to - since I am expecting the seller to send me a replacement 20000K LED.
The 20000K LED I bought from a different vendor should be here in a few days..
Pics:
The 33V @ 1.5A driver & the LED. The blue stuff is protective tape.
Closeup of the LED itself.
The tab on the bottom is the positive (+) terminal, which is also connected to the solder pad on the left just under the + symbol in the plastic.
The tab on the top of the picture is the negative (-) terminal, also connected to the solder pad on the right just under the - symbol in the plastic.
You can see the LED chips themselves, the little dots - and the wiring, 10 LEDs in series x 5 strings of LEDs in parallel across the chip.
Bottom of the LED plate.
The four mounting holes in the corners are exactly 34mm from each other (square), and the curved sides make for a circle 56mm in diameter.
I'm not going to power this LED up - although I want to - since I am expecting the seller to send me a replacement 20000K LED.
The 20000K LED I bought from a different vendor should be here in a few days..
The new LED chip (50W, 20000K: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270738329590">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270738329590</a>) has arrived.
Specs from the eBay ad:
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Color Temperature: 20000K</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">LED chips: Epileds <span style="color: #000000">EP-B3838B-A3 38*38mil</span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Voltage (VF): 32-36V DC</span></span>
<span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: Verdana">DC Forward Current (IF): 170<span style="font-family: Arial">0mA</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial"> <span style="color: #ff0010">Max</span></span> </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Viewing Angle: 120 Degree</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Intensity Luminous (Iv): 4000LM</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Life span 30000 hours guarantee</span></span>
Vacuum sealed packaging. Nice.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/LV427.jpg>
alt="" /></a>
Looks just the same as the other LED chip I bought, except this one has the 10 LED series strings going up/down instead of left/right.
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The new LED Driver also arrived - rated for output of DC 28-40V @ 1700 mA.
Two things that concern me about this driver:
<ol>
<li>The voltage goes up to 40V, the LED does 32-36V. Problem?</li>
<li>The AC input lines have no ground wire! The case may be the ground, but I don't see a screw for a ground wire.</li>
</ol>
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Did some shopping at Fry's, and picked up what I think is a better heatsink.
It was only $15, and is made for an AMD Athlon CPU - the benefit of this is that the base is flat, square, and easily drilled / tapped for screw threads.
>
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>
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The base comes with some Thermal Interface Material (TIM - aka goop), which I may use in the test.. but I got some Ceramique TIM for later.
>
alt="" /></a>
Top side of the heatsink, with the fan removed.
>
alt="" /></a>
Specs from the eBay ad:
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Color Temperature: 20000K</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">LED chips: Epileds <span style="color: #000000">EP-B3838B-A3 38*38mil</span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Voltage (VF): 32-36V DC</span></span>
<span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: Verdana">DC Forward Current (IF): 170<span style="font-family: Arial">0mA</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial"> <span style="color: #ff0010">Max</span></span> </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Viewing Angle: 120 Degree</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Intensity Luminous (Iv): 4000LM</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Life span 30000 hours guarantee</span></span>
Vacuum sealed packaging. Nice.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/LV427.jpg>
Looks just the same as the other LED chip I bought, except this one has the 10 LED series strings going up/down instead of left/right.
The new LED Driver also arrived - rated for output of DC 28-40V @ 1700 mA.
Two things that concern me about this driver:
<ol>
<li>The voltage goes up to 40V, the LED does 32-36V. Problem?</li>
<li>The AC input lines have no ground wire! The case may be the ground, but I don't see a screw for a ground wire.</li>
</ol>
Did some shopping at Fry's, and picked up what I think is a better heatsink.
It was only $15, and is made for an AMD Athlon CPU - the benefit of this is that the base is flat, square, and easily drilled / tapped for screw threads.
The base comes with some Thermal Interface Material (TIM - aka goop), which I may use in the test.. but I got some Ceramique TIM for later.
Top side of the heatsink, with the fan removed.
Thanks for the advice - very useful.
Specs for this driver:
50 Watt Waterproof LED Driver
<span style="color: #000000">Description:</span>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000000"></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Input Voltage: 85-265V </span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Output Voltage: DC28V-40V </span></span></li>
<li>Frequency range: 50/60Hz</li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Rated Current: 1.7A</span></li>
<li>Waterproof standard: IP66</li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Operating Temperature: 0~50 ℃ </span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Storage Temperature: -20~80 ℃ </span></li>
<li>Net weight: 303g</li>
<li>Size: 37 x 137 x 29mm</li>
</ul>IP66 seems to indicate that it's OK for sprays of water - but not immersion in 1m of water.
Then again, all the openings of the driver are sealed with epoxy.
Specs for this driver:
50 Watt Waterproof LED Driver
<span style="color: #000000">Description:</span>
<ul>
<li><span style="color: #000000"></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Input Voltage: 85-265V </span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Output Voltage: DC28V-40V </span></span></li>
<li>Frequency range: 50/60Hz</li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Rated Current: 1.7A</span></li>
<li>Waterproof standard: IP66</li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Operating Temperature: 0~50 ℃ </span></li>
<li><span style="color: #000000">Storage Temperature: -20~80 ℃ </span></li>
<li>Net weight: 303g</li>
<li>Size: 37 x 137 x 29mm</li>
</ul>IP66 seems to indicate that it's OK for sprays of water - but not immersion in 1m of water.
Then again, all the openings of the driver are sealed with epoxy.
Well, the dimmer works - I can go from moderately bright to AGH-MY-EYES.
Low brightness.
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High brightness.
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At the low end, there's noticable flashing / blinking, and at the mid range the driver makes a buzzing noise - probably from the load being turned on/off so fast.
Low brightness.
High brightness.
At the low end, there's noticable flashing / blinking, and at the mid range the driver makes a buzzing noise - probably from the load being turned on/off so fast.
I had the LED on for a few minutes, and there was some warmth at the heatsink base. I may be able to get away without using a fan.
The lens is 60. There may be some bleed since I don't have it glued on yet.
I will try to drill/tap the heatsink for screw holes this afternoon, and run an extended run to see how hot it gets.
The lens is 60. There may be some bleed since I don't have it glued on yet.
I will try to drill/tap the heatsink for screw holes this afternoon, and run an extended run to see how hot it gets.
I drilled and tapped holes for 6-32 screws, and mounted the LED to the heatsink with some Arctic Silver Ceramique in between.
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I also epoxied the lenses to their reflector frames, using four dabs of epoxy glue on each reflector edge.
>
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I ran the LED at full brightness for about a half hour, and the heatsink got noticably warm - but not necessarily "hot" - and this was without a fan.
I also ordered these for driving the cooling fan(s), since they require 12V DC:
http://wlmailhtml:{766805BF-D1EB-4AD8-85BF-24EE0016AFAC}mid://00000299/!x-usc:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812123309">([B]$12.49[/B]) ADAPTER OKGEAR| PA-AD-UL RT</a>
[IMG]http://wlmailhtml:{766805BF-D1EB-4AD8-85BF-24EE0016AFAC}mid://00000299/!x-usc:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998129">([B]$6.99[/B]) CASE ACCESS|ASPIRE FC-01 </a>
[IMG]http://wlmailhtml:{766805BF-D1EB-4AD8-85BF-24EE0016AFAC}mid://00000299/!x-usc:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812195004">([B]$12.99[/B]) FAN POWER PORT SUNBEAM|MFPP % - OEM</a>
Basically I plan to drive up to 4 fans from one power supply, with one fan speed controller knob to adjust all 4 at once.
I also epoxied the lenses to their reflector frames, using four dabs of epoxy glue on each reflector edge.
I ran the LED at full brightness for about a half hour, and the heatsink got noticably warm - but not necessarily "hot" - and this was without a fan.
I also ordered these for driving the cooling fan(s), since they require 12V DC:
http://wlmailhtml:{766805BF-D1EB-4AD8-85BF-24EE0016AFAC}mid://00000299/!x-usc:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812123309">([B]$12.49[/B]) ADAPTER OKGEAR| PA-AD-UL RT</a>
[IMG]http://wlmailhtml:{766805BF-D1EB-4AD8-85BF-24EE0016AFAC}mid://00000299/!x-usc:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998129">([B]$6.99[/B]) CASE ACCESS|ASPIRE FC-01 </a>
[IMG]http://wlmailhtml:{766805BF-D1EB-4AD8-85BF-24EE0016AFAC}mid://00000299/!x-usc:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812195004">([B]$12.99[/B]) FAN POWER PORT SUNBEAM|MFPP % - OEM</a>
Basically I plan to drive up to 4 fans from one power supply, with one fan speed controller knob to adjust all 4 at once.
My second 50W 20,000K LED chip arrived - the replacement for the original one that was shipped as 7000K.
I'll see if I can get it wired up this weekend to compare it against the other 50W 20,000K LED.
Granted, the two drivers are slightly different in current delivery, so that might make them look a bit different.
You can tell this one from the other because the LEDs go horizontally across instead of vertically.
Also, the small holes for aligning the lens reflector actually fit on this model - the other one I have, I had to cut the alignment pins off of the plastic lens reflector because they didn't fit.
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I'll see if I can get it wired up this weekend to compare it against the other 50W 20,000K LED.
Granted, the two drivers are slightly different in current delivery, so that might make them look a bit different.
You can tell this one from the other because the LEDs go horizontally across instead of vertically.
Also, the small holes for aligning the lens reflector actually fit on this model - the other one I have, I had to cut the alignment pins off of the plastic lens reflector because they didn't fit.
This one came from this auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250825245867">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250825245867</a>
The one listed is 6000-7000K, but you can ask for 20000K before you buy/pay.
There's also this version, which does 1800 mA:
[IMG]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110723826327">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110723826327</a>
The only other tank I have is a freshwater planted, which has 6700K PC, about 64 watts.
However, these pendants are pretty portable if anybody wants me to bring them over to compare...
Well there's a few options...
You can do a 10W LED, 20000K:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10W-white-20000K-High-Power-800LM-LED-Lamp-Aquarium-/270741096999">http://cgi.ebay.com/10W-white-20000K-High-Power-800LM-LED-Lamp-Aquarium-/270741096999</a>
20W LED, 20000K:
[IMG]http://cgi.ebay.com/20W-20000K-LED-Panel-Aquarium-/270715388689">http://cgi.ebay.com/20W-20000K-LED-Panel-Aquarium-/270715388689</a>
And if you want to boil your corals, there's the 100W 20000K LED. :)
[IMG]http://cgi.ebay.com/1pc-100W-White-High-Power-20000K-SMD-LED-Lamp-Light-LED-/160632836014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2566768fae">http://cgi.ebay.com/1pc-100W-White-High-Power-20000K-SMD-LED-Lamp-Light-LED-/160632836014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2566768fae</a>
There are also other color spectrums:
20W, 16000K: [IMG]http://cgi.ebay.com/20W-16000K-LED-Panel-Aquarium-/220805938254">http://cgi.ebay.com/20W-16000K-LED-Panel-Aquarium-/220805938254</a>
50W, 10000K: [IMG]http://cgi.ebay.com/50W-10000K-High-Power-4000LM-LED-Panel-Aquarium-/270723067230">http://cgi.ebay.com/50W-10000K-High-Power-4000LM-LED-Panel-Aquarium-/270723067230</a>
10W, 10000K: [IMG]http://cgi.ebay.com/10W-10000K-High-Power-800LM-LED-Lamp-Blub-Aquarium-/220673806349">http://cgi.ebay.com/10W-10000K-High-Power-800LM-LED-Lamp-Blub-Aquarium-/220673806349</a>
I'm probably going to end up with a few LEDs in different spectrums.
I'd imagine I'd be able to fit a 50W LED and 1-2 10W or 20W LEDs on the same heatsink assembly...
I found a Boost LED Driver which can go up to 100W, 5A.
Input voltage is 5-32V, so a 12V or 24V power supply would work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-Converter-Auto-Boost-Buck-100W-Power-Supply-CC-CV-/110727256259">http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-Converter-Auto-Boost-Buck-100W-Power-Supply-CC-CV-/110727256259</a>
Doesn't appear to natively support a dimmer function, though.
Input voltage is 5-32V, so a 12V or 24V power supply would work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-Converter-Auto-Boost-Buck-100W-Power-Supply-CC-CV-/110727256259">http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-Converter-Auto-Boost-Buck-100W-Power-Supply-CC-CV-/110727256259</a>
Doesn't appear to natively support a dimmer function, though.
I have found at least one source for a driver that has built-in dimming capability:
http://www.sunpower-uk.com/product/PLEC-050S140DT/PLEC-050S140DT/default.htm">http://www.sunpower-uk.com/product/PLEC-050S140DT/PLEC-050S140DT/default.htm</a>
SunPower UK sells this dimmer, which puts out up to 36V at 1400mA, and can be dimmed by a potentiometer or a 0-10v signal.
1400mA is a bit lower than the 1500mA or 1700mA that either of the two LEDs I got supports - but it's as close to the voltage and current required as possible.
I got a quote, and they're a bit pricy - 58.55 British Pounds Sterling, or $95 USD, for each. And that probably doesn't include shipping or currency conversion. Also the lead time is 6-8 weeks.
However, there's another company that makes something almost identical:
[IMG]http://www.excelsys.com/products/shelf_power1.html">http://www.excelsys.com/products/shelf_power1.html</a>
They make a dimming version of their LXD50 LED driver:
[IMG]http://www.excelsys.com/products/documents/LXD5027July2011_001.pdf">http://www.excelsys.com/products/documents/LXD5027July2011_001.pdf</a>
The only place it seems I can get these is through DigiKey, and they have a quantity 13 minimum order.. a few more than I need:
[IMG]http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=LXD50-1400SW&x=29&y=17">http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=LXD50-1400SW&x=29&y=17</a>
One thing that both drivers have in common - dimming goes from 100% down to 20% at the low end... probably due to PWM.
<span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 11px">
</span></span>
http://www.sunpower-uk.com/product/PLEC-050S140DT/PLEC-050S140DT/default.htm">http://www.sunpower-uk.com/product/PLEC-050S140DT/PLEC-050S140DT/default.htm</a>
SunPower UK sells this dimmer, which puts out up to 36V at 1400mA, and can be dimmed by a potentiometer or a 0-10v signal.
1400mA is a bit lower than the 1500mA or 1700mA that either of the two LEDs I got supports - but it's as close to the voltage and current required as possible.
I got a quote, and they're a bit pricy - 58.55 British Pounds Sterling, or $95 USD, for each. And that probably doesn't include shipping or currency conversion. Also the lead time is 6-8 weeks.
However, there's another company that makes something almost identical:
[IMG]http://www.excelsys.com/products/shelf_power1.html">http://www.excelsys.com/products/shelf_power1.html</a>
They make a dimming version of their LXD50 LED driver:
[IMG]http://www.excelsys.com/products/documents/LXD5027July2011_001.pdf">http://www.excelsys.com/products/documents/LXD5027July2011_001.pdf</a>
The only place it seems I can get these is through DigiKey, and they have a quantity 13 minimum order.. a few more than I need:
[IMG]http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=LXD50-1400SW&x=29&y=17">http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=LXD50-1400SW&x=29&y=17</a>
One thing that both drivers have in common - dimming goes from 100% down to 20% at the low end... probably due to PWM.
<span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 11px">
</span></span>
Here's an interesting combination LED that I found:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-Actinic-Blue-Hybird-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220833165025">http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-Actinic-Blue-Hybird-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220833165025</a>
The specs:
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Color Temperature/Wavelength: 24 chips 10000K + 24 chips 445-457nm Royal Blue </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">LED chips: <span style="color: #000000">EPILEDS EP-B4545V-A3 </span><span style="color: #fb0034">45x45 mil</span></span></span><span style="color: #fb0034"> </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Voltage (VF): 25.6V-28.8V DC</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Current (IF): 1800-3200mA max</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Viewing Angle: 120 Degree</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Life span: 30000 hours guarantee</span></span>
The 100W boost-buck driver I linked to earlier (which is on order) would be able to drive this pretty easily.
Edit: Also, here's a 50W complete Royal Blue LED chip:
[IMG]http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-455nm-Royal-Blue-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220811201050">http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-455nm-Royal-Blue-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220811201050</a>
Specs:
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Color Wavelength: 455nm</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">LED chips: Epileds <span style="color: #000000">EP-B3838B-A3 38*38mil</span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Voltage (VF): 32-36V DC</span></span>
<span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: Verdana">DC Forward Current (IF): 170<span style="font-family: Arial">0mA</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial"> <span style="color: #ff0010">Max</span></span> </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Viewing Angle: 120 Degree</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Intensity Luminous (Iv): 900LM</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Life span 30000 hours guarantee</span></span>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-Actinic-Blue-Hybird-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220833165025">http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-Actinic-Blue-Hybird-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220833165025</a>
The specs:
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Color Temperature/Wavelength: 24 chips 10000K + 24 chips 445-457nm Royal Blue </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">LED chips: <span style="color: #000000">EPILEDS EP-B4545V-A3 </span><span style="color: #fb0034">45x45 mil</span></span></span><span style="color: #fb0034"> </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Voltage (VF): 25.6V-28.8V DC</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Current (IF): 1800-3200mA max</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Viewing Angle: 120 Degree</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Life span: 30000 hours guarantee</span></span>
The 100W boost-buck driver I linked to earlier (which is on order) would be able to drive this pretty easily.
Edit: Also, here's a 50W complete Royal Blue LED chip:
[IMG]http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-455nm-Royal-Blue-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220811201050">http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-455nm-Royal-Blue-Led-Panel-Aquarium-/220811201050</a>
Specs:
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Color Wavelength: 455nm</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">LED chips: Epileds <span style="color: #000000">EP-B3838B-A3 38*38mil</span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">DC Forward Voltage (VF): 32-36V DC</span></span>
<span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: Verdana">DC Forward Current (IF): 170<span style="font-family: Arial">0mA</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial"> <span style="color: #ff0010">Max</span></span> </span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Viewing Angle: 120 Degree</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Intensity Luminous (Iv): 900LM</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: 12px">Life span 30000 hours guarantee</span></span>
You'll be welcome to, when I actually have everything in place... 
I really like the use of the 50W LED chips and the Athlon style heatsinks - both can be depended on to be a certain size, making it a bit of a modular system..
The only weak link is getting a 0-10V dimmer driver with the right wattage/voltage/current combination.
I can get them from Digikey, but minimum order quantity is about 13 pieces @ $78 apiece, or a $1000 minimum order.
I figure a personal need for 4-5... Maybe a group buy if this works out?
I really like the use of the 50W LED chips and the Athlon style heatsinks - both can be depended on to be a certain size, making it a bit of a modular system..
The only weak link is getting a 0-10V dimmer driver with the right wattage/voltage/current combination.
I can get them from Digikey, but minimum order quantity is about 13 pieces @ $78 apiece, or a $1000 minimum order.
I figure a personal need for 4-5... Maybe a group buy if this works out?
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