LED Design
- Thread starter giulianom
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Thanks to some suggestions in another thread, I took a look at some of the new drivers that Meanwell (Mean Well) has come out with, that support a wide variety of voltages and current capacities for High Powered LED chips.
The Meanwell HLG-60H model line is a 60-watt constant current AC/DC driver available in several voltage/current combinations, and they have HLG series for other wattage ratings.
One in particular, the HLG-60H-36B is a dimmable driver with the following characteristics:
Perfect for the new LEDs on their way that require 30-36V and 1700mA.
The dimming function is interesting - it supports three different methods of dimming:
Here is the spec sheet for the HLG-60H line:
http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-60h/HLG-60H-spec.pdf">http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-60h/HLG-60H-spec.pdf</a>
I've found two distributors online, one pricing them around $55, the other around $85.
But since these are so new, both vendors report a 11-week lead time.
I will probably try to order a handful and see.
The Meanwell HLG-60H model line is a 60-watt constant current AC/DC driver available in several voltage/current combinations, and they have HLG series for other wattage ratings.
One in particular, the HLG-60H-36B is a dimmable driver with the following characteristics:
<ul>
<li>110/220V AC input (nominal)</li>
<li>36V DC output max</li>
<li>1.7A (1700mA) constant current</li>
<li>Dimmable</li>
</ul>
<li>110/220V AC input (nominal)</li>
<li>36V DC output max</li>
<li>1.7A (1700mA) constant current</li>
<li>Dimmable</li>
</ul>
Perfect for the new LEDs on their way that require 30-36V and 1700mA.
The dimming function is interesting - it supports three different methods of dimming:
<ol>
<li>0-10V input</li>
<li>PWM signal</li>
<li>100K pot</li>
</ol>
<li>0-10V input</li>
<li>PWM signal</li>
<li>100K pot</li>
</ol>
Here is the spec sheet for the HLG-60H line:
http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-60h/HLG-60H-spec.pdf">http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-60h/HLG-60H-spec.pdf</a>
I've found two distributors online, one pricing them around $55, the other around $85.
But since these are so new, both vendors report a 11-week lead time.
I will probably try to order a handful and see.
The new 10,000K and Royal Blue (455nm) 50W LED chips have arrived!
The yellow one on the left is the 10,000K model - the grayish one on the right is the 455nm Royal Blue.
eBay Links:
10,000K: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270723067230">http://www.ebay.com/itm/270723067230</a>
455nm RB: [IMG]http://www.ebay.com/itm/220811201050">http://www.ebay.com/itm/220811201050</a>
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/bESBe.jpg>
alt="" /></a>
Also, here are the larger diameter reflectors and lenses.
What's interesting about the reflectors is that the apeture is shaped like a rounded rectangle or a stretched circle.
That might affect how the light is distributed, depending on which way you have the reflector positioned...
The 60mm 60 degree lens is on the left, and the 62mm 90 degree lens is on the right.
In both cases, the diameters of the lenses are slightly larger than the reflectors, and the lenses need to be epoxied onto the reflectors.
>
alt="" /></a>
The yellow one on the left is the 10,000K model - the grayish one on the right is the 455nm Royal Blue.
eBay Links:
10,000K: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270723067230">http://www.ebay.com/itm/270723067230</a>
455nm RB: [IMG]http://www.ebay.com/itm/220811201050">http://www.ebay.com/itm/220811201050</a>
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/bESBe.jpg>
Also, here are the larger diameter reflectors and lenses.
What's interesting about the reflectors is that the apeture is shaped like a rounded rectangle or a stretched circle.
That might affect how the light is distributed, depending on which way you have the reflector positioned...
The 60mm 60 degree lens is on the left, and the 62mm 90 degree lens is on the right.
In both cases, the diameters of the lenses are slightly larger than the reflectors, and the lenses need to be epoxied onto the reflectors.
thediznave
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how big are these chips?
The chip itself is about an inch square.
The metal backing plate is about 2-3".
The leds themselves are 1w each, about 2mm square, and arranged in 5 parallel strings of 10 less in series.
Each string takes 350mA of current, or 1750mA (1.75A), with the forward voltage being between 32-36v (3.2-3.6v per led).
The metal backing plate is about 2-3".
The leds themselves are 1w each, about 2mm square, and arranged in 5 parallel strings of 10 less in series.
Each string takes 350mA of current, or 1750mA (1.75A), with the forward voltage being between 32-36v (3.2-3.6v per led).
The MeanWell 60-Watt drivers I mentioned in http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showpost.php?p=684460&postcount=113">this post</a> aren't available yet for sale, as they're not yet UL certified.
One option I was considering was using a larger capacity driver - a single 185 Watt driver instead of 3 x 60 Watt drivers - the HLG-185-36B:
[IMG]http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-185/default.htm">http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-185/default.htm</a>
These seem to be readily available for around $88 each.
I would have to wire 3 of the LEDs in parallel, and their brightness would all be controlled by the one LED Driver.
The one down side to wiring LEDs in parallel is that the current is divided, and if one LED array blows, the extra current could blow the other LED chips.
However, since the LED chips themselves are an array of 5 parallel strings of 10 leds (5 x 10), making the three chips in parallel for 15 parallel strings of 10 doesn't sound too bad.
Would a current limiting resistor on each LED do anything to protect it from too much current?
Any thoughts?
One option I was considering was using a larger capacity driver - a single 185 Watt driver instead of 3 x 60 Watt drivers - the HLG-185-36B:
[IMG]http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-185/default.htm">http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-185/default.htm</a>
These seem to be readily available for around $88 each.
I would have to wire 3 of the LEDs in parallel, and their brightness would all be controlled by the one LED Driver.
The one down side to wiring LEDs in parallel is that the current is divided, and if one LED array blows, the extra current could blow the other LED chips.
However, since the LED chips themselves are an array of 5 parallel strings of 10 leds (5 x 10), making the three chips in parallel for 15 parallel strings of 10 doesn't sound too bad.
Would a current limiting resistor on each LED do anything to protect it from too much current?
Any thoughts?
Inline fast-blow fuse on the line going to each LED. Use a holder like this that screws together:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=18082+FH">http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=18082+FH</a>
The white plastic ones are cheap and will come apart.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=18082+FH">http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=18082+FH</a>
The white plastic ones are cheap and will come apart.
That should work. If you have them dimmed down a bit, the fuses might not blow if just one line went out, but even if they got more than 1.7A (but less than 2A) for a little while, they would probably be okay.
The 185 Watt driver puts out an adjustable current range between 2.6A and 5.2A.
Divided by 3 LEDs, that's a individual current range of 866mA to 1.7A.
Divided by 2 LEDs, it's 1.3A to 2.6A - OK at the low end, but it would probably blow the fuse at higher levels.
And assuming an overcurrent of 2A max before the fuse blows, then each 350mA LED chip would instead get 400mA for a brief time (2A / 5).
Divided by 3 LEDs, that's a individual current range of 866mA to 1.7A.
Divided by 2 LEDs, it's 1.3A to 2.6A - OK at the low end, but it would probably blow the fuse at higher levels.
And assuming an overcurrent of 2A max before the fuse blows, then each 350mA LED chip would instead get 400mA for a brief time (2A / 5).
I ordered two of the MeanWell HLG-185H-36B drivers, to power the 6 50W LEDs that I have.
Each 185-Watt driver will drive 3 50W LED array chips in parallel, and the dimmer circuit can adjust the constant current between ~10% and ~100%.
Two drivers, one for the 10,000K LEDs, and one for the 455nm Royal Blues...
Next I'll have to work on building a frame out of aluminum angle - I plan to try and "weld" the frame together with "alumiweld" sticks and a propane torch.
Each 185-Watt driver will drive 3 50W LED array chips in parallel, and the dimmer circuit can adjust the constant current between ~10% and ~100%.
Two drivers, one for the 10,000K LEDs, and one for the 455nm Royal Blues...
Next I'll have to work on building a frame out of aluminum angle - I plan to try and "weld" the frame together with "alumiweld" sticks and a propane torch.
I wouldn't weld the frame, I'd just mechanically fasten the joints with short bolts and nuts. Maybe you're a better welder than I am, but I wouldn't trust my aluminum welding skills to hold all those LEDs above water -- and you might want to adjust the frame dimensions later. Bolts allow for that.
Dustin
I have been considering the options with the frame, and it won't necessarily be the full width of the canopy...
One option I am considering is hanging the frame from the canopy corners, using chains - makes it adjustable in a number of different ways.
The "welding" is more like brazing or soldering - clamp the frame in place, heat the corner joint, and fill it in with aluminum welding rods... Harbor Freight has them for not too much, even Ace Hardware does.
I plan to cut the aluminum pieces with a carbide chop saw - should be fine with some lubrication and a slow cut feed.
Made some modifications to the frame design...
Added 1" x 4" x 1/8" aluminum strips (the white bars) to support the heatsink LED assembly. The bars will probably be screwed onto the frame, with some variety of threaded holes tapped for putting the bars in different sections.
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alt="" /></a>
Top:
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alt="" /></a>
Bottom:
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alt="" /></a>
I shortened the aluminum box frame a bit, to about 4' in length.
I think I'll suspend the frame from the canopy with some diagonal-run chains.
In canopy:
>
alt="" /></a>
Added 1" x 4" x 1/8" aluminum strips (the white bars) to support the heatsink LED assembly. The bars will probably be screwed onto the frame, with some variety of threaded holes tapped for putting the bars in different sections.
Top:
Bottom:
I shortened the aluminum box frame a bit, to about 4' in length.
I think I'll suspend the frame from the canopy with some diagonal-run chains.
In canopy:
I used some short pop rivets and it works great. Each of my LED units weighs about 10 lbs and they're both mounted on the frame I built out some cheap pieces of aluminum I bought at HD. Rivet gun, box of rivets, and framing pieces cost me less than $30.
I used to textured spray paint - It looks identical to the LED housing.
By the time you finish your design this technology will be obsolete... J/K, get a move on.
Yeah, I was considering making some angle braces to fit into the corners of the frame, and joining the frame pieces with rivets.
Edit:
Coming soon to a thread near you, LED Design - Mark II.
My new LED drivers should be here on Thursday.
I have some home improvement work I need to do this weekend, hopefully I can fit some time in to build the LED framework...
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hahahaha! Every time I thread pop up I think the same thing!
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