My DIY Lumia 5.2 LED based build

torqued

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Hey folks,

First...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbb8uhNGpCc">THIS VIDEO</a> is what convinced me to go with the Lumia 5.2 LED. This guy's tank is pretty impressive, and his opinion on the different options pulls alot of weight with me given how many options hes explored, and ultimately what he landed on.

I have had a couple requests for information regarding my current LED build. To start, I figured I would list all the components that I went with. Most of these items are available from a single place, though you can save a bit of cash if you shop smartly for the same items other places.

My fixture first off is intended for an SPS tank, and therefor is likely more than what some of you would need, but this should give you an idea of what you would need in the some of the most demanding situations. This is also for my 6' long 2' deep tank (180g). Anyway here goes:

[IMG]http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/cree-lumia-5-2-70w-full-spectrum-5-channel-cree-led/">6 x Lumia 5.2 LEDs</a> - You would need 3 with interconnect, and 3 dual molex because these are run in pairs (wired in series).
[IMG]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2200/b4d7d/products/249/images/995/lowres_LED_nov25_015__43522.1385941842.1280.1280.jpg?c=2" alt="" />

LED Drivers: you would need 3x [IMG]http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700h-led-driver/">LDD-700H</a>, 2x [IMG]http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-1000h-led-driver/">LDD-1000H</a> drivers, and 2x SCW08C-12 DC converters for each PAIR of Lumias

Total: 9x LDD-700H, 6x LDD-1000H, 6x SCW08C-12 (these are available at Mouser Electronics)

The PCB boards: I used 3 O2Surplus PCBs (circuit boards that hold all the drivers, and greatly minimize the amount of wires needed) are built by a guy named O2Surplus. Unfortunately he does not ahve a web store. You need to hit him up on ReefCentral.com via PM and he will mail them to you. They are $30/ea and WELL worth it. They are far more powerful than the PCBs that ledgroupbuy.com sells, such as the Coralux 5up.
[IMG]http://www.playsofrays.photos/">Here is a fantastic link to learn more about this PCB, and it even has good info on the build in general</a>
Picture below
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Controller: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/bluefish-mini-ldd-controller/">Bluefish mini</a>. This is an amazingly powerful controller...far far more powerful than any other lighting controller available that I have found. They are $100, and available at ledgroupbuy.com as well.
[IMG]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2200/b4d7d/products/282/images/1153/blufish_mini_proto__30985.1424744805.1280.1280.jpg?c=2" alt="" />

Heatsink: This is the primary "fixture" and its what holds all the components together, as well as keeping your LEDs cooled :). I went with the[IMG]http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makersled-designer-heatsink-kit-professional-grade-anodized/"> professional grade Makers Heatsink 72</a>". Here is a picture of it in the box:
[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/f2f87b3c616eeb44f1aca26ddb7554a5.jpg alt="" />

Power Supplies: I used 3x http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/180w-48v-3-75a-dc-power-supply/">180w powersupplies</a> One of these are needed for each pair of Lumias. The pic below shows the powersupplies, the LEDs, and the molex connectors that connect the LEDs together and to the PCB:
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In general, these are the main components. You will also need power cords, and wire, as well as some short network cables to connect the PCBs in series. That is one of the great features of the O2Surplus PCB...its cake to connect several PCBs in series, so that a single controller will control an entire array of LEDs. Note: Each PCB can only drive 2 Lumia 5.2s. It is probably best to add these in pairs as needed to make the best use of the hardware. I chose to go with 6, but adding two more would be easy to do.

That is all i have for now. As I start getting this built, i will try to add more info. I know this sounds complicated (and it is not for a COMPLETE novice), but trust me when I say its not as complicated as it looks. If you have any tinkering ability at all, I am confident you can do this too!
 
I can definitely see this in my future. I'm just starting out so I'm going with black boxes from https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-reef-lights/1-sbox-basic.html">SB Reef Lights</a> They're a little more than standard BB's like Mars but the spectrum is better.

This build is right up my alley. I look forward to following along with your progress. Not only does this look like a lot of fun but the control you'll have will be impressive for less than half the price of the name brands out there.

If you need a hand with anything let me know. I'm fairly handy with a soldering iron & heat gun.
 
fortunately, there is little to no soldering required :)

These PCBs and LEDs are very modular, and plug and play. Even the controller simply plugs into the PCB. In fact, I am not thinking I will even have to solder a single thing!
 
civics14;1085022 wrote: Just wondering... how much has it added up to so far?

So it added up to more than I had hoped, but in the end, I am OK with it. I would say I have about $1200 into it so far, but that should about do it....

Though down the road I do fully anticipate adding some T5s to the mix. Probably 4 of those. The plan is to get a couple of retro T5 units (4x80w) and run two in the front, and two in the rear. Again this will be down the road when colonies start forming and shading/coverage becomes more of an issue. I actually really like the growth/coloring ability of T5, I just dont like not having shimmer, so that will be the best of both worlds. Those T5s are likely to cost another $500 or so. So all in all, i will have about $1700 in all lighting combined.

Total wattage will be close to 750 watts, and as bad as that sounds, my old 75g used to have over 1000w with just two 400w Halides and 2x110w VHOs!
 
this looks like a cool project. cant wait to see this over a tank
 
If you don't like it, you can probably turn it into a sweet tanning bed.
 
That looks sick. I look forward to seeing it up and running and the results of your hard work. Great job!
 
Little update...

So yesterday I started wiring up the power supplies. Pretty easy and straightforward. For a cord to plug into the wall, I simply ordered 3x 6ft PC power cables, and snipped the end off that would normally plug into the computer's power supply.

Hooking them up is quite simple. The ports on the PSU are clearly marked, but admit I goggled them to be sure I didn't mix up the white and black wire. The white is N for neutral, Black is L for live, also called Hot. Green is always ground. I added the some of these to the ends of the wires to make assembly and disassembly easy in the future.

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Next I needed to figure out how to run the DC power to the fixture from the PSUs. I landed on ordering 3x15ft black extension cables from monoprice.com. they were only about $5ea and would accomplish 2 key things. First it would give me ample length without splicing the wire. Second it would match the look of the computer wire pretty well. The plan here is to cut the wires in half, and wire the cut ends into the the PSU and the other cut end to the PCB. The nice thing is this allows the plugs to be used as a nice clean (non spliced) quick disconnect between the PSUs and the fixture. I think you would be shocked at how costly 16-14awg wire and connectors are. This was a simple and elegant solution IMO, and certainly economical.

I also picked up some rubber grommets to put in the side of the fixture where I drill holes for the wires to go through.

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Worked on it a bit more today...made some nice progress

Drilled a hole for the rubber grommet

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Grommet in place

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This is one pair wired in series. One PCB controls each pair of these Lumia.

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This shows the wires now connected from the LED to the PCB/Drivers

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Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Yes they are evenly spaced...bit of an optical illusion here :). They are all just a tad over 10" apart, and roughly 10" from the edge of the tank.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Here is a close up showing the fan wires connected as well as the network cables. These network cables are what carry all the channel control signals, and allow dimming of each channel independently. The network cables allow super easy Daisy chaining if all three cards, allowing a single controller to operate alk three cards. The first card in the series will have the Bluefish controller mounted onto the PCB. Unfortunately I still don't have it yet, so I can't test the unit, or show you that part yet..... hopefully I get it by mid next week.

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Second card in the series...notice it has two network cables. One is the input, second is the output to the last card.

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Stopped here for the night. The final card and set of fans will be here :)

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Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
How are the LED mounting holes lining up with the slots in the heat sink?



They look off center to me...



The MakersLed heatsinks are nice, but I always thought the spacing was unusual..



Give me increments of 10-20mm any day...





Have you thought of rotating the LED's 90 degrees instead?



Maybe you'd be able to center them...
 
GiulianoM;1085649 wrote: How are the LED mounting holes lining up with the slots in the heat sink?



They look off center to me...



The MakersLed heatsinks are nice, but I always thought the spacing was unusual..



Give me increments of 10-20mm any day...





Have you thought of rotating the LED's 90 degrees instead?



Maybe you'd be able to center them...

Your right....they are slightly off center. I could have mounted them at 90 deg. Probably should have. The reason I chose this direction was because it seemed more aluminum would contact the rear of the LED going this dir so I turned them. Oh well not worth messing with at this point....

The LEDs all have thermal paste on them btw. The same stuff you put on the rear of a CPU and heatsink. Artic Silver 5 is what I had on hand from an old PC build


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Torqued;1085654 wrote: Your right....they are slightly off center. I could have mounted them at 90 deg. Probably should have. The reason I chose this direction was because it seemed more aluminum would contact the rear of the LED going this dir so I turned them. Oh well not worth messing with at this point....





Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk





No, I meant centered across the width of the channel.



You can see there's two open slots on one side, and one open slot on the other side of each LED.



I was wondering if the spacing of the LED mounting holes would allow you to turn them 90 degrees...



Perpendicular to the length of the heat sink, not parallel.
 
GiulianoM;1085655 wrote: No, I meant centered across the width of the channel.



You can see there's two open slots on one side, and one open slot on the other side of each LED.



I was wondering if the spacing of the LED mounting holes would allow you to turn them 90 degrees...



Perpendicular to the length of the heat sink, not parallel.
Yes...you are right. They can go either direction. I prob should have done that. But at this point I will prob just leave them as is

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
It is basically completely finished. Just awaiting the arrival of the Bluefish controller....

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Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
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