My first DIY Sump

acroholic

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Hi Guys,
I am going to be setting up a 60 gallon cube tank in the next few days and wanted to try a DIY sump. I looked at prices, and they were very high for what I wanted. This is basically a knockoff of my 36" MRC sump in a 30" length. The acrylic to acrylic bonds are glued with Weld-On 16. The sump itself is an All-Glass 29 gallon tank, 30" x 12" x 18". I used 1/4" thick acrylic for the inner parts, and actually built the acrylic structure inside the sump to avoid having to dremel the top trim. The acrylic is siliconed wherever it meets the aquarium glass.

The tool that was the most helpful here, besides a Dremel, was my Delta Table saw, which was a cheapo Lowes purchase, less than $100 a few years ago. This allowed for small shaving off of the acrylic to size it well for the front/back pieces.

This sump was made to keep as many components in-sump as possible to save space under the tank for a calcium reactor, etc. I water tested the thre areas, and they are sealed with no leaks.

I'm particularly proud of the bulkhead/micron bag assembly I came up with. Weld-On 16 bonds great with the black plastic trim of the 29 gallon tank.

Water enters thru the micron filter bag and bulkhead in the back left. The skimmer sits in sump in the left hand compartment, which has a constant water level (about 9 inches). Water travels thru the back center compartment and into the right return pump compartment. I anticipate having a heater in the back center/back right section. The return pump compartment will house a Mag 12 no problem, which is bigger than what I will use it for. The water level in the pump compartment will be about 6 inches or so, and will be maintained by a Tunze Osmolator. I have a three probe rack installed in the return compartment for pH/temp probes.

The center front section is an in-sump slow flow refugium, which will house either a rolling cheato or macro algae type setup. Water enters from the bulkhead area and leaves thru the slotted teeth.

I wanted to avoid baffles in the sump if possible because they eat up space, but if microbubbles are an issue I can add some baffles to the back center area if needed.

Total material cost for the sump was:
29 gallon tank: $55
Plastic cutting saw blade for table saw: $15
1/4" acrylic scrap $11
Aquarium silicone $5

total: $86
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Looks great! Curious if you think the placement of the probes will affect how the equipment runs? For example by having them right at the pump, the Ca reactor return will have a greater effect on the probe's reading than if the probe were at the beginning of the of the sump, and may shut off the reactor when it's really not necessary. I intentionally placed my probes behind where my kalk drip enters in the pump chamber so water has to travel all through the tank and back into the sump before it gets to the probe.
 
au01st;362809 wrote: Looks great! Curious if you think the placement of the probes will affect how the equipment runs? For example by having them right at the pump, the Ca reactor return will have a greater effect on the probe's reading than if the probe were at the beginning of the of the sump, and may shut off the reactor when it's really not necessary. I intentionally placed my probes behind where my kalk drip enters in the pump chamber so water has to travel all through the tank and back into the sump before it gets to the probe.

Actually, I shouldn't have said the rack was for a Calcium Reactor probe. My calcium reactor (GEO 612) has a pH probe port in the reactor lid (only way to go, IMO). The pH probe the rack will hold is for an in sump pH monitor. I typically use two pH probes per tank: one for the calcium reactor and one for monitoring tank pH, which is what the rack holder is for. I don't anticipate using Kalk on this tank, as it will be an LPS and anemone tank, but if I do, I will hook the in sump pH probe to a controller that can turn the Nilsen and the osmolator off if tank pH spikes up. I have this setup on my 210 gallon SPS setup.
 
Nice. Get some more filter socks to cycle around during cleaning.
Clean build too
 
Smoothie;363067 wrote: Nice. Get some more filter socks to cycle around during cleaning.
Clean build too

Thanks. The filter sock is the mesh type, so you really don't need a lot. All you do is blast them with a garden hose when they clog and place them back in service. Takes about a minute to clean each one. Much easier to use than the felt type. I use the 200 micron size.
Dave
 
hfleming;363093 wrote: Where do you get your acrylic scrap?

I got mine at Calsak Plastics in Lawrenceville. 3105 Sweetwater Rd # J Lawrenceville, GA 30044-2447 - (770) 921-4550
 
Dave, how is this working for you and would you make any changes to the filter sock holder? Is the weldon holding it up to the trim enough to support the weight of it while in use? I'm in the planning stages for making a sump out of a 55G glass tank with the typical baffles but I would like to do something similar to the acrylic filter sock holder that you have.
 
Budsreef;381980 wrote: Dave, how is this working for you and would you make any changes to the filter sock holder? Is the weldon holding it up to the trim enough to support the weight of it while in use? I'm in the planning stages for making a sump out of a 55G glass tank with the typical baffles but I would like to do something similar to the acrylic filter sock holder that you have.

It is working fine. No problems with the tank trim holding the weight of it so far. Another option for you would be to make a hang on type of holder out of plexiglass. Could be done easily as well.

A hang on type could be glued to the top of the trim. I glued mine to the underside to save on space and to make sure no water spilled over the top if the sock overflowed.

The hang on types can also be purchased pretty cheap. I have a single 4 inch hang on type I added to my other reef, and I used it to trace the pattern for the cutout on this sump.

Here is an example:

a>
 
Thanks, Dave. I really like the one you did and will try to duplicate it for a 7" filter sock.
 
Budsreef;382037 wrote: Thanks, Dave. I really like the one you did and will try to duplicate it for a 7" filter sock.

In addition to using Weldon to glue the plexi to the bottom trim, you could also silicone the part of the holder assembly to the aquarium glass where it meets. That, in addition to the weldon/trim glue joint should be more than enough.

Just watch wherethe trim meets the galss in the tank. I had to cut some excess silicone out that was under the trim from the manufacture of the tank. No big deal, but I wanted as much Weldon contact between the bag holder and the trim as I could get.
Dave
 
are probes different diameters?

how did you know the size for the probes? (or did you already have them?)

I'm planning on getting an apex in the group buy.. anyone know the size hole required for those probes?
is the temperature probe the same size as the PH probe?

Thanks...

the sump mods look great..
 
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