New Member needing help

Oh, you also want to get a floating glass thermometer for aquariums. They are cheap and the most reliable way to measure temperature, even on big fancy tanks. Similar for the Refractometer that you already have (good job btw)!

Temperature and salinity are the two parameters of highest importance. Stay within the below ranges. As you gain experience, you’ll learn more. But this is a starting point.

Temp: 76-78*F
Salinity: 1.024-1.026 SG (specific gravity)

No need to worry about alkalinity and calcium yet. Temp, salinity, ammonia/nitrite/nitrate is where we want to focus in terms of water parameters.

The lights may also be an issue for the zoas, both in quality/intensity, and duration they are turned on each day....I’m not sure, more info needed. But zoas are hardy! So hold off on new corals too, as previously suggested. Keep it slow. You’re doing great so far!

Also... love the aquascape! Looks great!
 
Welcome! Great site for information. I learn so much each day!

When looking at parameters, I’d also check phosphate at your LFS, they will usually run for free to see if that is an issue. Before I knew my issue, my zoas weren’t opening well and I struggled with diatom dusting the glass and coating the sand. I used Phosguard in a bag initially to reduce the levels. I eventually had to invest in a GFO reactor with Phosban. Good luck!
 
Great advice so far! I agree with all the above.

For testing salinity; you want to use a Refractometer. The “swing arm” hydrometers are kinda crap as there a dozens of different errors in both directions with them.

Topping off for Evaporation: over time, water will evaporate. But salt will not, it will stay behind. So your saltwater will become saltier every day. Because of this, you need to add a little freshwater everyday to compensate for evaporation, and keep the salinity at the same level.

I would not add any more fish or corals for a long while. Go slowly, veeeery slowly, and you will have success.

Great that you added bacteria back in the day. But you also should have added a food source back then too. The fish are there now, creating waste as a food source for bacteria, and that led to the expected ammonia spike. During a cycle, we do expect ammonia and nitrite to spike and go back to zero... but we also expect nitrate to increase and stay at non-zero. If nitrate is still at zero, then I would expect to see lots and lots of algae... but the tank looks pretty clean. So I’m cautious to say that your tank is cycled. And I’m slightly worried for your blenny and tang in there. But clowns are super strong,
Hi Thankyou for your reply why worry about the tang and blenny I thought these were strong fish too.
 
Hi Thankyou for your reply why worry about the tang and blenny I thought these were strong fish too.
Well. You’re right that they aren’t especially weak, fragile, or expert-only when it comes to care... but no, they aren’t particularly strong either. They are more sensitive to changes in salinity and temperature, as well as being more prone to dying from many of diseases.

By example; if you tell someone that your tang/blenny died, their thoughts go to a dozen different popular potential causes of death. If you tell someone your clown died, they will think “well if it wasn’t velvet, then just how bad were your parameters?!” Lol... it’s because clowns and other damsels are built like tanks.

Edit: typo
 
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Hi Gill yes
Welcome! I lived outside Birmingham for a while as a kid. My dad taught at UCE.

I think everyone has given good advice so far. Zoas often close up when in a new tank for a little bit. If its a week+ is when you really need to worry.

What type of test kits are you using? They have different accuracy/ranges. I know the API tests always seemed to show some ammonia in saltwater.
 
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